L245DT front piniom broke

[WinnieCouple]

So, I found my problem this morning. Looks like almost an inch of the front pinion sheared off, just before the C-clip channel....
It took me most of the day to get her out, but she's out.
Now, question... can i buy JUST the pinion. Or do i need to buy a gear "set"..?
I have no idea of what the "gear ratio" is... (physical gear ratio of front drive)
Where would I find out THAT information...?

I'll upload a pic of the broke pinion.

 

[WinnieCouple]

wow.... must learn how to resize pics...
=(

[/IMG]

 

[WinnieCouple]

On a good note, I did find out that my 4wd shifter DOES engage the front propeller shaft, the shaft and couplers all look great, no rust, lots of lube.
So the rear part of the tractor is good.

The front tires DO counter rotate when the stub of the pinion had resistance applied (as should act when fixed). There were no suprises when I pulled the front end apart, lube looked good in the axle housings, spline ends looked good, no metal shavings or anything.

There are only 2 different geat sets per the parts manual, I'll have to check the serial number of the tractor to see which one applies to me. No idea what the actual gear ratio is, so hopefully I'll be able to find new gears and get her back in action.
I will be adding a front subframe when it goes back together, to add some strength to the front end, as it is all mounted to the lower front of the cast iron block... will take pics and show my progress.
Any suggestions for WHERE to find front differential gears would help a LOT.
Thanks

 

[meanjean]

Luck is not on your side these days.
You've reported a few troubles as of late and I feel your pain.
Here's to hoping things get better!

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Not sure if you had seen the answer Vic gave today but he did say the gear set should be avaliable at your local dealer.

"Here's the dill-e-o of that pinion and ring gear set. Kubota stopped making a few of the key individual parts available speratley, because as we all know from the first day of "Overhauling your Planetary Gear Set" class, these gears need to be replaced in sets.

Kubota has the ring and pinion gear set available, part # is 37650-43200 and it should be at the local parts counter for around $650. "

 

[WinnieCouple]

Luck is not on your side these days.
You've reported a few troubles as of late and I feel your pain.
Here's to hoping things get better!

For the record, I knew the 4wd was not working, I just didnt know the cause, so i wanted to share that i found it...
Since i am building a subframe for my cracked block, I figured I would pull it apart and see what needed to be fixed.
While I have the tractor torn apart, I'll go ahead and drain all the hydraulics and replace the filter/suction screen as well.

So, all in all, its just something to keep me out of the BINGO hall..

Thanks for all the support.

 

[WinnieCouple]

Not sure if you had seen the answer Vic gave today but he did say the gear set should be avaliable at your local dealer.

"Here's the dill-e-o of that pinion and ring gear set. Kubota stopped making a few of the key individual parts available speratley, because as we all know from the first day of "Overhauling your Planetary Gear Set" class, these gears need to be replaced in sets.

Kubota has the ring and pinion gear set available, part # is 37650-43200 and it should be at the local parts counter for around $650. "

Thanks Eric, I've got a dealer about 20 miles away. Better put in a matching set and let them wear in together...
Thanks.

 

[WinnieCouple]

That is one ugly pinion shaft! Yikes!

Yep, looks like it snapped right at the c-clip groove.
I mentioned it to a buddy who is a welder, he told me he could weld it back together....??? tack it together, grind it down to a deep channel, build it back up, grind it down and grind out the splines and groove.. not just running a weld around the outside (he's away at work for a week at a time, it will give hime something to do).
He has the coupling to slide over it to check his work....
We'll see how it comes out. He wanted to give it a shot, so if it works out cool, if it breaks again, I'll know what to expect to get it apart again.

Anyone ever hear of this actually "working"?? I figured it would make it MORE brittle, but he is a "welder" and he's done some amazing stuff with metal for many years.
Its only 25hp... not a race car but then maybe a rock crawler..? we'll see.

 

[quinka]

Hi Winnie couple,

Your welder seems to know what he is doing, however (as I have done this before) take both pieces to machine shop and in a lathe, drill and ream a hole in each piece, then press a dowel pin to hold both pieces together, this lines them up perfectly, then grind groove between the 2 pieces, heat to straw color and weld, then clean up and voila!

Frank

 

[WinnieCouple]

Hi Winnie couple,

Your welder seems to know what he is doing, however (as I have done this before) take both pieces to machine shop and in a lathe, drill and ream a hole in each piece, then press a dowel pin to hold both pieces together, this lines them up perfectly, then grind groove between the 2 pieces, heat to straw color and weld, then clean up and voila!

Frank

Thanks Frank,
I hope to hear something this weekend from my welder. At this point, with all I'm about to do to get her going, I may just buy the new gear set, so I wont be worried about the weld breaking...!!!

When I get her back in the dirt, she's going to be STRONG and I'm going to do all I can to get it right the first time.

 

[WinnieCouple]

so..... you think it will work....???

 

[WinnieCouple]

well well well..... due to lack of interest, the tractor has been sitting a while, untill today..!!!
So, my rewelded pinion turned out ok, we'll see how long it holds up...
I have the front end all back together, with the tires/wheels on it so I can roll it around.
Next is the fabrication of a subframe, (now that I'm "motivated" again).
Planning to make it out of an "I" beam, (seen it work on another tractor).
should be a fun time.
Have to refill the bottles for the torch, and get on my back and get to "figurin"... measuring and making magic with the welder.

 

[hodge]

"I'm going to do all I can to get it right the first time"

Why would you put that pinion back in, and run the risk of further damage, or at the least having to tear it back down? I'm sure the weld is strong, but it doesn't look too good- you've got compromised splines, and is it true? Looking true is one thing, running true is another. $650 is a lot, but your front axle isn't the place to pinch pennies, in my opinion. I'm sorry to sound harsh, and I hope it is right and holds, but you compromised your statement.

 

[WingNut]

X2 the splines dont look that good to me either, don't want to sound critical but if it was up to me I'd be tempted to bite the bullent and buy the parts, and be done with it.
However you may have more free time than I do.

 

[WinnieCouple]

I see what you're saying, in my pic, its the "worst" part of the weld job.
The coupler goes on it good and tight, the spline grooves and ridges are cut well and straight. (more that 3/4+ is untouched by the grinder).
I only went along with "the welder" to "give it a shot", as he said, it could save me that $650... (being on a retired/fixed income) I thought I'd try it out.

I "should be" starting a new job soon... ( I HOPE).
I plan to use the 4x4 "properly/as needed" without puting it in a bind...
("baby it" a bit.. for a while)
Now that I know how to put it in, its NOT that hard ( i have a press at home).
being able to pull the pinion WITHOUT having to remove the axles, it would be an easy fix if I had to replace it with a new one.

The tractor has bigger problems with the front assebly, so the subframe build is the most critical for now.... the pinion was broke when I bought it.
It was a tractor within my budget, and if I can save a buck or two (for now)
I have to give it a shot... it is FUN learning experience. A very simple/functional design. Will keep ya'll posted.
THANK YOU

 

[Russell King]

If any of you like pie and coffee you should visit WinnieCouple in Hico, Texas and make him take you to the Koffee Kup.

Classic little cafe in the middle of (basically) nowhere that has the best pies ever - I highly recommend the peanut butter pie!

I haven't been in about a year so I am assuming it is still there (and calling to my sweet tooth!)

 

[WinnieCouple]

If any of you like pie and coffee you should visit WinnieCouple in Hico, Texas and make him take you to the Koffee Kup.

Classic little cafe in the middle of (basically) nowhere that has the best pies ever - I highly recommend the peanut butter pie!

I haven't been in about a year so I am assuming it is still there (and calling to my sweet tooth!)

... my grannie worked at the Koffee Kup Kafe' for 30+ years....
.. After living in Washington DC, Las Vegas, Korea, Alaska, Europe, Florida and other crazy places, its nice to hide out in the boonies.
I tell folks we're "on the witness protection program".
=)

 

[Bluegill]

Our old 3750 striped to splines on the pinon. I replaced the ring and pinion, bearings and seals.

I've been welding, forging and heat treating high carbon and alloy steel for 30+ years. And I would not weld something like that back together. For one thing, it is heat treated alloy (high carbon) steel. The welding ruined the heat treating. I do hope it holds, but get the new parts while you still can.

 

[MagKarl]

Spot on Bluegill.

Winnie, I'm still concerned that your lack of a proper subframe is the root of your troubles. Do a Google Images search for L245DT and you will see many tractors with loaders and how the subframe was done on the 1200 loader. No need to reinvent the wheel here, just look for the structure in the pics that connects the main uprights forward to the front and back to the rear axle.

 

[WinnieCouple]

Spot on Bluegill.

Winnie, I'm still concerned that your lack of a proper subframe is the root of your troubles. Do a Google Images search for L245DT and you will see many tractors with loaders and how the subframe was done on the 1200 loader. No need to reinvent the wheel here, just look for the structure in the pics that connects the main uprights forward to the front and back to the rear axle.

... again, I agree with you all. I was just "saving a buck", to give it a try.
the break was "outside the diff" so "if" it goes (or when), it should make a clean break with no "extra dammage"...
... the "learning experience" and seeing how simple it is to replace, I will be able to replace the gears next time around.
QUESTION... the $650ish cost of new parts.. is that ONLY the ring/pinion gear, or does that have the "spider gears" and carier too..? (couldnt find out for sure from myself)...
thanks again.