l245dt 3 point not working
- Thread starter kboytown
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
The more you talk about what's going on the more confused I've become.
If you lift the three point and hold the lever in the up position does the three point stay up?
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I suggest you test the pressure of the system. You will need a gauge that reads up to 3000 PSI. Then some adapter to screw into the port that is shown in post #18. The gauge can be attached to the fitting with an appropriate hose or just directly into the fitting using a JIC female fitting on the valve so it can be installed so you can see it.
You need to download the Work Shop Manual and it is available here.
www.kubotabooks.com
Over 600 free Kubota manuals. A library of free manuals and parts diagrams compiled by Kubota tractor owners. All free to download instantly. No tricks, no subscriptions, no sign ups, no weird apps or software to install.
kubotabooks.com
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
The adapter needed would be is BTPP (British thread Pipe Parallel).
And you use a grease gun whip (10,000 PSI) to go to the gauge.
The 3 point does not stay up when holding it and keeping the lever in the upright position. It had been working slowly and shakily for the first few minutes of startup, the dropping completely. This morning it didn't even do that.
I'll track down the things to measure psi and get back to everyone. Really appreciate everyone's help trying to figure this out.
If the lift does not stay up there is no pressure. Simple as that. The trick is finding why there is no pressure.
Will the 3pt lift a 500# load?
Dan
So quick update and thanks to everyone for the guidance. I decide to start pulling some lines and such to see if there was clear blockage anywhere (everything seemed clean and clear). Also removed filter screen, cleaned it (look pretty good, a few clumps of sludge, but didn't appear too bad), reinstalled screen and refilled w/ trans/hydraulic fluid.
Started tractor up and 3 point worked immediately. Would hold me w/out any problems (just under 200 lbs.). Drove around the farm raising and lowering it for about 15 mins and everything on the 3 point worked great. Then decided to return to the shop and 3 point and lever just dropped and wouldn't work again. I decided to check hydraulic fluid level to make sure it was leaking and when I removed the bolt it came out quite heavily.... definitely not the small little drip that comes out when just filled. Is this just because fluid is not hot or could it be some indication of what is going on with hydraulic problem?
Still trying to track down gauge and fittings to test pressure and will get back to group w/ that info. But wonder if it is even necessary since it appears that there is sufficient pressure at times but not others? or maybe this would help me pinpoint what is going on. Could also remove hydraulic screen again, but not sure this is the issue an whether it's worth another 5 gallons of fluid to troubleshoot....
Started tractor up and 3 point worked immediately. Would hold me w/out any problems (just under 200 lbs.). Drove around the farm raising and lowering it for about 15 mins and everything on the 3 point worked great. Then decided to return to the shop and 3 point and lever just dropped and wouldn't work again. I decided to check hydraulic fluid level to make sure it was leaking and when I removed the bolt it came out quite heavily.... definitely not the small little drip that comes out when just filled. Is this just because fluid is not hot or could it be some indication of what is going on with hydraulic problem?
Still trying to track down gauge and fittings to test pressure and will get back to group w/ that info. But wonder if it is even necessary since it appears that there is sufficient pressure at times but not others? or maybe this would help me pinpoint what is going on. Could also remove hydraulic screen again, but not sure this is the issue an whether it's worth another 5 gallons of fluid to troubleshoot....
If the 3pt is not lifting you dont have pressure. Why is the question. I would clean that screen again.
Dan
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
You have a suction side leak, it's foaming the fluid (which make the level go up) then it reaches the point where it cavitates the pump and the three point quits working.
So, if anyone is still around for the ride, here's where things stand:
Cleaned the trans screen filter out again, it looked pretty clean. 3 point would work for about 10 minutes and then if I would drop it, it would either not lift, or slowly lift in a jerky manner.
Not sure how to check for a suction side leak, but i did take a smoking incense still around all the fittings to see if that would detect something, but I didn't see anything and maybe it was just a dumb idea anyway.
I did find that there is a patterned whinny, buzzy noise coming from the output line of the hydraulic pump which is accompanied by vibration. Could this mean something?
I'm going to try to post a video of what's going on in case that might help somebody help me figure out what's going on. Last thing, I did add the updated hydraulic trans fluid recommended by this forum instead of the SAE 80 oil in the manual..... I drained everything out, but I'm sure there was some left. Could this have anything to do w/ the issue?
Cleaned the trans screen filter out again, it looked pretty clean. 3 point would work for about 10 minutes and then if I would drop it, it would either not lift, or slowly lift in a jerky manner.
Not sure how to check for a suction side leak, but i did take a smoking incense still around all the fittings to see if that would detect something, but I didn't see anything and maybe it was just a dumb idea anyway.
I did find that there is a patterned whinny, buzzy noise coming from the output line of the hydraulic pump which is accompanied by vibration. Could this mean something?
I'm going to try to post a video of what's going on in case that might help somebody help me figure out what's going on. Last thing, I did add the updated hydraulic trans fluid recommended by this forum instead of the SAE 80 oil in the manual..... I drained everything out, but I'm sure there was some left. Could this have anything to do w/ the issue?
Here's the link to the video of the issue. I think you can hear the noise made by the line/pump.... maybe this might help figure out what's going on?
youtube.com
- YouTube
Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.
youtube.com
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Your video is not working.
From your description of working then not working it seems the pump may be losing fluid suction.
See this thread and then the one about fast flushing. Unfortunately the pictures are not showing on how the person rigged it up. But I think you should just run it from a clean source to see if that helps.
www.orangetractortalks.com
here is the diagram of your tractor hydraulics
Since we are suspect of air leaking into the suction side, you should replace the highlighted parts (#21, #22, #23). #21 is a rubber hose that can have a PVC pipe installed in it. The other end of the pipe goes into the clean fluid.
Since you have just replaced your fluid, I think it would be fine to use it since you will be draining the sump when replacing the o-ring at the case.
For your situation it would be better to use some see through tube to be sure the fluid continues to move into the pump. Now the pump should produce 5 GPM so will suck a bucket empty pretty fast. If you use a tub of some sort (like in the referenced thread) you can probably catch the fluid from the sump drain as you pump it out of the tub so it can run longer.
Do this as you are replacing the item above OR just replace the items and see if that resolves your issue (which I assume that the pump is producing flow and pressure and then losing its flow due to air being sucked into the inlet pipe somewhere).
You also should check your engine oil level just to be sure it is not increasing over full. That happens when the hydraulic pump shaft seal fails and lets hydraulic fluid enter the engine crankcase.
From your description of working then not working it seems the pump may be losing fluid suction.
See this thread and then the one about fast flushing. Unfortunately the pictures are not showing on how the person rigged it up. But I think you should just run it from a clean source to see if that helps.
B7100 Water (?) in Hydraulic Fluid
I have an early 1980s B7100 with a manual gear drive. I use it only for bush hogging a 2 acre horse pasture 2-3 times a year and maybe 2-3 times a year dragging it. Every couple of years the hydraulic lift stops working - I check the hydraulic oil on the dipstick (photo) and its like (almond)...
www.orangetractortalks.com
here is the diagram of your tractor hydraulics
Since we are suspect of air leaking into the suction side, you should replace the highlighted parts (#21, #22, #23). #21 is a rubber hose that can have a PVC pipe installed in it. The other end of the pipe goes into the clean fluid.
Since you have just replaced your fluid, I think it would be fine to use it since you will be draining the sump when replacing the o-ring at the case.
For your situation it would be better to use some see through tube to be sure the fluid continues to move into the pump. Now the pump should produce 5 GPM so will suck a bucket empty pretty fast. If you use a tub of some sort (like in the referenced thread) you can probably catch the fluid from the sump drain as you pump it out of the tub so it can run longer.
Do this as you are replacing the item above OR just replace the items and see if that resolves your issue (which I assume that the pump is producing flow and pressure and then losing its flow due to air being sucked into the inlet pipe somewhere).
You also should check your engine oil level just to be sure it is not increasing over full. That happens when the hydraulic pump shaft seal fails and lets hydraulic fluid enter the engine crankcase.
Last edited:
Thanks for the guidance, Russell.
Try this link, it should work (sorry, this is my first you tube post!)
www.youtube.com/shorts/0v6adLwGap4
Try this link, it should work (sorry, this is my first you tube post!)
www.youtube.com/shorts/0v6adLwGap4
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
You will find tthe problem if you follow a methodical step by step diagnostic procedure. So drop the shotgun and target your trouble shooting.Try the link again now. Think I got it figured out now. Sure hope I'm better at figuring out kubota hydraulics than you tube!
Your first step - forget the 3pt completely. Focus on flow into and out of the pump. Once you get proper operation of the pump you can move on to the 3pt if it needs it but not before.
Dan
Last edited:
Russell, I couldn't find the thread you were referring to. Do you happen to have the link? Thanks!
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Sorry about that…
I added the link into the post above and here it is again
B7100 Water (?) in Hydraulic Fluid
I have an early 1980s B7100 with a manual gear drive. I use it only for bush hogging a 2 acre horse pasture 2-3 times a year and maybe 2-3 times a year dragging it. Every couple of years the hydraulic lift stops working - I check the hydraulic oil on the dipstick (photo) and its like (almond)...
www.orangetractortalks.com