So after 3 years of searching I finally came across a loader for my L235. A crack head had the tractor in pieces so I am trying to get the loader all hooked up and I’m down to the end. I have a fitting on the side and not sure what hooks to it. Then I have the two lines that hook to the tractor and a third coming off the side of the tractor that was looped back to itself without the loader on. Just trying to make sure I hook it all up right. Also I seem to be missing an attachment piece for the control arm if anyone has a picture of what it’s supposed to look like that would be awesome. And yes I have ordered a manual online but have yet to receive it.
L235 w/bf400 loader hydraulic hookup
- Thread starter Rosgood14
- Start date
I am not trying to scare you but I think you are at the point of this installation where you could do serious damage to the pump of your tractor with a wrong connection. Hydraulics is not a try and see what happens. You need to understand your tractor before the loader install and know where the pressure relief valve is at all times in relation to the main pump. Dead head the pump and you will destroy it. Dead head means to not have anywhere for the pump discharge to go. the pump is a fixed displacement unit and for each revolution it expells a fixed amount of oil. Block that oil expelling and the pump is destroyed by a big crack.
The photos, are they of the loader on YOUR tractor or on the parts tractor?
How many lines connect to the loader valve? 6 or 7.
If 7 then the loader valve has a power beyond feature and this PB will be used to feed to 3 pt hitch or other hydraulic outlets at the rear of the tractor.
Do you have any hydraulics on the tractor besides the 3 pt hitch before you started the install?
Do you have power steering? If yes does it have its own pump or does it get its supply from the main hydraulic pump?
Exactly what manual have you ordered?
Reading through this thread dealing with a post driver install on a L335 will have good info for you. Rbargeron knows these L series.!
L335 post driver
Dave
The photos, are they of the loader on YOUR tractor or on the parts tractor?
How many lines connect to the loader valve? 6 or 7.
If 7 then the loader valve has a power beyond feature and this PB will be used to feed to 3 pt hitch or other hydraulic outlets at the rear of the tractor.
Do you have any hydraulics on the tractor besides the 3 pt hitch before you started the install?
Do you have power steering? If yes does it have its own pump or does it get its supply from the main hydraulic pump?
Exactly what manual have you ordered?
Reading through this thread dealing with a post driver install on a L335 will have good info for you. Rbargeron knows these L series.!
L335 post driver
Dave
The photo with the 3 steel lines is of my tractor where it is looped to itself before the loader was installed. The black valve block is on the loader. I was able to finally get a manual this morning and about to make sure it’s all plumbed in correctly then go from there.
Your tractor did not leave Japan years ago with the three steel lines. Likely a previous owner had the necessary hydraulic block installed to permit powering additional implements.
You are fortunate!
Dave
Umm I’m not 100% sure but these steel lines and blocks are all factory from Kubota. It’s a 1981-1983 L235DT
also I got it plumbed correctly and got it to start moving and found out I have a pin hole in one of the steel lines on the loader so I got a oil bath first thing this morning. Now I gotta figure out a way to patch, repair, or replace it. The hole is so small I can’t even see it unless it’s spraying and I think it’s gonna be hard to find a replacement.
TheOldHokie
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Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
The lines for my B1630 of the same vintage were still available and not horribly priced ($80 each). But they are just standard tube - cut out the bad section and put in a length of new line using JIC flare nuts and unions. If you can't do JIC flares use a flareless tube nut and sleeve - they work just fine and install with a wrench.
Dan
Well I got it all plumbed in and leak free. Now I can get the rams both on the boom and the bucket to extend but not to retract. What am I missing or have plumbed in wrong.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
No 3pt sounds like power beyond circuit is wrong. No retract on the cylinders is more puzzling. My first inclination was tank return missing but that should lock extend as well. Double triple check the three hoses that go to the tractor to make sure you have them going to the right places. If you could post the connection instructions from the manual it would take some of the guesswork out of my answers.
Dan
I got her figured out. The manual I have was a little different that’s my valve body so I switched the supply and return lines and it worked. Controls are really sticky but it is old and I’m hoping with a little use it will loosen up a little.
Hey there, any idea what the union type and size is from the steel line into the hydraulic block. the block to the elbow is 3/8 npt but the steel line to the elbow looks like a swagelock fitting. Want to confirm type (swagelock) and size. Thank!
Edit: Looking like it may be a 3/8 flareless bit type.
Edit: Looking like it may be a 3/8 flareless bit type.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Thanks! Figured the other thread was a long shot with age, but it had all the relevant images.
TheOldHokie
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Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
You are working with an old Asian tractor. The hydraulic system is predominantly British not US pipe and the two do not interchange.
Implements like a loader are often a mix of US pipe and SAE hydraulic standards.
As I said in the other thread post pictures of what you currently have and a description of what you are trying to accomplish. That will improve communication, get you the correct answers, and avoid expensive mistakes.
Dan
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