L235 starting problem

[Uncle914]

I have an L235 which will not crank. Battery good, glow plug heats, but nothing happens when I turn key to start. I am wondering if it's the key switch. I ran out of daylight tonight, but I was going to try to clean all terminals. Will try that in the am. Does the key switch fail? There is still spring return. Anything else I should look into. I am new to this site so thanks in advance to anyone who can offer suggestions.

 

[Stumpy]

Everything fails but let me try and narrow it down a bit first.

Do the dash lights dim or go out when you try and turn the key? If yes it's probably a loose or damaged battery cable if no then it's a problem in the solenoid trigger circuit. The clutch safety is the only one I'm aware of but there could be others. It's under the left floorboard on my L175 but I'm not sure of the location on that machine. If you find it remove the leads and short the two wires together and see if it cranks. It is possible the key switch is gone but that's hard to check without pulling it out and taking a multimeter to it.

Give me a minute and I'll scan the wiring diagram for you.

 

[bruceatlam]

How do you know that the battery is good?? You should have 13.2 volts across the battery terminals at rest with nothing on and then you should hold 12 volts across the battery terminals when you turn the key to start. Is that what you mean?

What safety switches do you have? Clutch? PTO? Seat?? Check those ------

 

[lreops]

Also, don't forget about the fuse. Been awhile, but I think the far right or/and the one next to it are tied into the ignition. And like Matt said, the only safety switch is on the clutch.

Ron

 

[Stumpy]

As promised the wiring diagram.

Looks like you've only got a clutch switch but my book doesn't show where it is so you'll have to hunt that down. Whether that is necessary depends on what you're dash lights are doing though. Let us know.

Matt

 

[Uncle914]

OK, here's the update:

Battery is reading about 12 volts, I say "about" because the meter that I am using is small and hard to accurately read.

Safety switch at clutch is OK, bypassed, but also removed and tested.

Ignition switch, I removed and tested, OK

Cleaned terminals at battery and starter.

Used test light and have power at main starter terminal.

Ran jumper from positive battery terminal to starter terminal (Black/white) and get clicks, but no spin. I am thinking it is the starter.

 

[Uncle914]

Also a special Thanks to Stumpy/Matt for the wiring diagram!! Is there a site I can access online for parts/repair manual? Thanks. Bob

 

[Stumpy]

Bob,

http://www.kubotabooks.com/ That should have the parts diagrams. You'll have to see if the service manual is in there, if not you'll have to buy one. The I&T service manuals are only about $30.

Voltage doesn't tell the whole story about a battery's condition and you need a very accurate reading to tell anything at all. What will tell you something is the voltage at the battery terminals is when you hear the starter solenoid click. I'd try jumping the tractor before I did anything to the starter just to make sure it's not a bad battery.

 

[Uncle914]

Ok, will try jump start before I splurge on a starter.