L2250 engine oil change

kubotal2250

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New owner here. I'm looking to do an oil change on my recently purchased l2250. What kind of oil do I use and how much? I'm assuming the drain plugs are the 2 plugs at the bottom of the drain pan
 

85Hokie

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6 quarts.... and I would recommend
Rotella Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40 and genuine Kubota filter in your climate
 

kubotal2250

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I just got a owners manual in the mail and noticed that it calls for 6 quarts or 10w30 below freezing. Is there a reason everyone is recommending a different oil? Also is the 10w30 they are recommending just regular 10w30 . Thanks
 

CGMKCM

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I just got a owners manual in the mail and noticed that it calls for 6 quarts or 10w30 below freezing. Is there a reason everyone is recommending a different oil? Also is the 10w30 they are recommending just regular 10w30 . Thanks
The owners manual makes the same oil recommendations for my L4760. Kubota does not specify synthetic oil in the owners manual. You can use regular oil if you choose. I believe the 10w-30 called for by Kubota is a diesel engine specification, not all 10w-30 oils are rated for diesel engines.
 

UpNorthMI

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You are correct Kubota recommends 10W-30 for cold weather areas. I use Mobile Delvac Extreme 10W-30 on all of my Kubota tractors and heavy equipment. It’s now synthetic and is available at less than $20 a gallon delivered from Walmart. I only use Kubota filters.

Pick a quality diesel oil in 10W-30 and stick with it.

I’m sure the synthetic 5W-40 is great for warmer areas but I have yet to see it specified in a Kubota manual.
 
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rut3556

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I run Rotella T-6 15-40 year round with no problem. And for 33 years before that I ran Amsoil 15-40 full synthetic. Starts up every time.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I just got a owners manual in the mail and noticed that it calls for 6 quarts or 10w30 below freezing. Is there a reason everyone is recommending a different oil? Also is the 10w30 they are recommending just regular 10w30 . Thanks
The oil that your 35 year old manual states is just a really old spec.
Rotella Shell T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40 meets and beats all of the old oil standards.
That's all I run in my Kubota's and it's perfect for multiple climate conditions.
 
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GeoHorn

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New owner here. I'm looking to do an oil change on my recently purchased l2250. What kind of oil do I use and how much? I'm assuming the drain plugs are the 2 plugs at the bottom of the drain pan
New Owner: Your tractor was made before the latest oil specifications were concocted so you might read thru the link I’m providing in this post. But to answer your question: Diesel engines utilize higher compression ratios and heavier rod-end bearing loads than gasoline engines and they also burn a “dirtier” fuel and need greater capability additives to deal with soot and ash. Use a Diesel-rated (so-called “C” rated) engine oil in your diesel. See this link:

Use the viscosity-rating your Owner’s Manual suggests for the temps you’re experiencing.
Hope this helps.
 
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kubotal2250

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so both my neihgbours just dropped off oil at my house and im confused which to use. ive got 6 quarts of john deere 15 w 40 diesel oil and 6 quarts or synthetic ck 4 10w40.
 

85Hokie

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so both my neihgbours just dropped off oil at my house and im confused which to use. ive got 6 quarts of john deere 15 w 40 diesel oil and 6 quarts or synthetic ck 4 10w40.
If'n I was in YOUR climate.............. I would have the 10w in the tractor as fast as you can pour it.

AND it will thank you later!!! As Wolfman said - just cause they printed 35 years ago..... doesn't still mean it is the thing to do.....

remember when leeches were used by doctors?
 

kubotal2250

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are there any issue from switching from regular oil to syntheic? just drain it and fill?
ive heard it can seep past seals or is that a myth
 

85Hokie

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are there any issue from switching from regular oil to syntheic? just drain it and fill?
ive heard it can seep past seals or is that a myth
Synthetic has smaller molecules and is less viscous than dyno oil............ and IF there are seals that leak after switching - it is no fault of the synthetic oil, the seals were bad to begin with, and the oil is NOW telling you to fix the worn seals.....

think of pouring cold molasses in a funnel ........... how fast does it seep out?
Now take that molasses from the microwave ....... pour through a little better?;)

Synthetic is not slicker or really "better" than dyno oil........... is simply does the job longer and lasts longer and has a lower cold pour point. All around - it can only help...........even an old engine.
IF nothing else - is helps a great deal when starting the tractor, and that is where 95% of ALL wear begins - when that key is turned and you have a "thick" oil in the crankcase - that oil cannot get to all the parts as quickly as the synthetic oil - thus wear is reduced.
 

85Hokie

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cool. ill run the 10w30 synthetic in the winter and use up the 5w40 on my next oil change when weather is warmer
you ought to flip that thought.......5w in winter......... 10w in warmer.........
 

kubotal2250

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got eh oil drained and the oil filter off. im asuming i add the oil to the long plastic spout on top of the crankcase? its beside the crancase breather it looks. i dont have a camera to take a pic
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Look on the side of the front gear case cover by the alternator, there might be a second fill point there.