So I just replaced the alternator on my L2201 and still can't get the battery to charge. I'm getting 12.5 volts at the battery with the tractor running or not. What else could it be? Voltage regulator? How can I test the regulator?
l2201 Battery not Charging
- Thread starter countryhick
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I'll send you a link for a download for a l185-l355 WSM, look at paragraph 60 for how to test your charging system. 
Wondering if you could share that with me as well?
When you figure it out please share with all of us so we know where to start.
When you figure it out please share with all of us so we know where to start.
Ok. This regulator test requires removing a fuse and hooking up a 30 watt bulb. Is this just a regular house light bulb?
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
As wolfman said, low beam will be near that. Or both filaments on an 1157. Low is 8,high is almost 22.
It seems like the new alternator did the trick. I ran all the tests on the new alternator and everything checked good, so I decided to check it out again once it was hooked back up. I ran the RPMs up to about 2500 and the voltage at the battery slowly started climbing. It was 12.5 not running. After about 30 seconds at 2500 RPMs it had climbed to 13.2 so I guess everything is fine. What do you guys think?
85Hokie
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CH,
You seem to have fixed it - any 12 Volt lead/acid battery will show a standing charge of around 12.5+ volts. Any typical alternator will "charge" the battery with a higher voltage - often approaching 14 volts. One way to quickly see if a a battery is ever being charged is to use a volt meter and check the voltage with the machine off and then running, some alternators have a sensor that will not cut in until a certain RPM is reached and or a "load" is applied. The manual wanted you to test with light bulb as the load. You can also check your battery with you headlights (ifn you have them) - the headlights will pull on the battery and force the alternator to charge. And even then the volts will come up quickly with a load than a no load. A good charging system should show something in the high 13 volt range.
In the gas auto world - the quick way to tell if you had a starter (solenoid) problem versus a battery problem was to flick on the lights. If lights were dim , battery was at fault - bright lights - look elsewhere. It wasnt a perfect test, but often could lead you to the problem.