L185F Hi / Lo Selector

[duckstab]

Good morning,
I recently purchased a L185F. It is my first tractor and I have a lot to learn yet about it. I found a manual for a L245 which helped me identify the various levers and switches, and taught me the proper method for starting and stopping the engine (contrary to what the previous owner taught me: shut off via decomp knob). I have lots of questions, many of which I have found the answers to on this great website. Everything appears to work on my L185 except the Hi/Lo lever. It is currently in Hi and the lever will not budge. Not one millimeter. It could not move any less if it were bolted in position. I push in the clutch, have the gear shifter in neutral and pull up on the HiLo lever, but it does not move. I hope I am making some rookie mistake and that someone here can enlighten me.

Any help is appreciated!
Derek

 

[MikeL]

I have several of the small L series and I have had the hi-lo be sticky, but never get jammed. I would try to move it when the tractor is off and the transmission is in neutral. Also, try to make sure there is no load on the rear gears. Let the tractor roll a little bit after you stop and shift to neutral to make sure the gears are not under tension.

First off, have you tried moving the lever in the opposite direction? One of mine has a selector lever that has been modified.

 

[duckstab]

I've tried both pushing and pulling on the lever to no avail. Does it require any lateral movement before pushing or pulling? I've not tried that, but it just occurred to me that I should have.

I will try your other suggestion when I get home tonight.

Thank you!
Derek

 

[MikeL]

The L185 and the L245 have only the simple lever that rotates the shaft. If the forks are stuck in the differential case you will get to have fun.

If this is an "F", was the trans/hyd oil run low?

 

[duckstab]

No luck. Still won't budge, in any direction.

I do not know if the oil was run low. I am awaiting shipment of the operator's manual for the L185. In the meantime I've only been able to locate and check the water and engine oil levels. I've found the fill cap for the transmission, and the trans plug (according to the L245 manual I am using in the interim), but i'm not certain how to check the level, or how to tell if there's enough fluid in there. Do you fill the trans until it begins to leak out of the plug hole? Is that what signifies it as being full? Sorry for the newb questions. I'm starting from scratch here.

 

[birddogger]

Do you fill the trans until it begins to leak out of the plug hole? Is that what signifies it as being full?

That's the way on some older model I use (305 I think). There's a plug about halfway up on the left side of the transmission. Fill it slowly till some dribbles out and run the plug home.

Does the unit appear to have been stored outside? perhaps the pivot shaft for the hi-low is just rusted up, give it a good squirt of penetrating/rust breaking oil. Yeah it should just swing up/down no lateral detent.

 

[ipz2222]

There should be a plug on the left side of the trans case, near the clutch pedal. Fill the trans case untill fluid runs out that plug. Don't get over zealous with trying to move that hi low lever, Mine has been broken off.

 

[duckstab]

Thanks for the advice, fellas. I appreciate it!

The tractor is very good shape cosmetically. It appears to have been stored inside for the majority of it's life. I'll take some pics this weekend to include.

The engine and drive train was recently spray painted blue, for the impending sale I imagine. There is some slight surface rust under the paint. It flakes off in spots, but not much. I do not see a buildup of corrosion where the lever seats. After consulting the exploded parts view on Kubota's site though, there is a screw in very close proximity to the lever that intrigues me.

The screw in question can be seen in the parts list;
http://www.kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx

- Enter L185F, only one book should appear.
- In that book, click the + next to section titled "Speed Change Lever".
- Then click on the subsection titled "037000 SPEED CHANGE SYSTEM 2".
- In that diagram, parts # 10 and 11 are what I am referring to.

What is the function of these two parts? #10 is described as "Stopper.Lever". Is it possible these function to lock the selector lever in a desired position? Or is this just wishful thinking on my part?

Thanks again

 

[MikeL]

The "stopper" level is intended to keep the actuating lever in place.
If you look at the same page you can see the rear cover on the transmission case to view the shift fork for the hi-lo.
I would remove the cover and see if there is any corrosion on the fork or shaft. If that seems clear, remove the pin from the shift handle, remove the stopper and check for any impediments (e.g. paint from a sloppy repaint job prior to a sale) on the lever (#8 on the diagram) and see if you can move the lever manually. When you remove the cover you might find a spring and detent ball (#s 6 & 7) that can be rusted as well. Clean everything up until the shift fork moves freely and then re-assemble.

The Hy-trans in your case should be level with the fill screw on the left side of the case. I would change it while you are working on it. You have 3 drain plugs (one on the case and one on each wheel's final drive. Finally, below the hi-lo shift and slightly behind it is the cover for the hydraulic screen. Make sure your clean this at the same time as you change the fluid.

The 185's are a very sturdy machine so the effort you put into cleaning it up should leave you with a nice little tractor and the satisfaction of fixing it up.

Send me a note if you need more details.

 

[duckstab]

Is the rear trans cover you are referring to shown as #15 in that view?

 

[MikeL]

Yes. Clean around the area and pop that cover off. Save the gasket if you can if not buy some new material and make one yourself using the old gentle tapping with a small ball peen hammer trick.
From the looks of the schematic, screw #4 might play a roll in keeping everything in place. The key is to take apart as little as possible to get the shift fork moving. If the detent ball bearing is not under #15, it might provide some tension. My guess is the machine got water in it somehow and the detent is stuck.

 

[gpreuss]

Mine got harder and harder to shift - finally the handle broke off (maybe 15 years ago). When I took the handle and hub off to weld it, I squirted WD-40 all around the shaft and jiggled it about. It has worked fine ever since. I think water worked its way in there, and rusted things tight.

 

[duckstab]

I will try both methods. I'll squirt some penetrating oil in there tonight and check it tomorrow for movement. If that doesn't work, I already have Sunday cleared with the wife for servicing the tractor and will get in there and hopefully resolve the issue. Thank you again for the advice. I will report back Monday with results!

 

[duckstab]

Alrighty,
I removed the cover in question and did not see the shift fork assembly, after consulting the WSM it appears that assembly is located below the hydraulic lift speed adjuster. I didn't remove that cover since I did not have a replacement gasket for it. The Hi/Lo selector mystery will have to wait a while for a resolution.

I did have an odd experience when changing the engine and trans/hydro oils though. Only about two quarts of engine oil came out the drain, and it only took in four quarts to register an acceptable range on the dipstick, .9 quarts less than the manual says it should take. I didn't think of it at the time, but I probably should have removed the oil pan to check for sludge. I'll make sure to check the oil before every start to see if i'm losing any (the exhaust is colorless so I'm not burning any that I can tell), and I'll remove the pan with the next oil change.
As for the hydro oil, I drained out about six gallons of thick caramel from the four plugs (two pan plugs, one plug at each rear wheel). If it weren't for the toxicity levels this stuff would make a great dip for some apples. I could only get five gallons back in before it came gushing out of the level plug though. I found that a bit odd. There is a hydraulic system installed for the front end to lift/lower the snowblower, perhaps that has some effect on it? The sticker on the fender says it should take 23 quarts to fill, which is about how much drained out. Should I trust the level plug? Should I put back the same amount that came out? I was on level ground (in my garage) when doing the work, and I also drove it around a bit to see if the oil needed to disperse some before topping off, and let it sit overnight, but it only took in about another .3qt before coming out the level plug again. This has me a bit perplexed.

I also changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter, rad cap, and tightened the belt to .5" deflection. All without incident, except I had to bleed the fuel lines despite opening the fuel cock and filling the new fuel filter before tightening it. I will flush the radiator come Friday and will attempt to replace the rad hoses as well, but since I've not ordered replacement parts my only hope will be to take the old ones to Napa (or the like) to try to find suitable replacements from stock.

All in all, an interesting experience with unexpected results. I don't know if I should be worried or not though... ignorance is bliss as they say.

 

[MikeL]

I was not certain if the shift forks were under the rear cover or not. Sorry for the goose chase. I would still try penetrating oil on the shaft and removing the stop so you can try to get some play in there.

Did you change the Hydraulic screen? If the fluid was milky it could be the result of a plugged screen. That also has increased the volume of the fluid due to the air in it when i have changed mine.

As to the level of the fluid, I would make sure to do multiple cycles with all of your hydraulics and recheck.

 

[duckstab]

No worries. It was only two bolts, three nuts and was pretty easy to pop off and replace. The rear hydro cover has much more to it and i want to have a replacement gasket in hand before attempting it. I will remove the handle and try to see if it isn't just stuck though.

As for the hydro screen, I did remove and clean it. It was in excellent condition so I didn't replace it.

The fluid did not appear milky. Just deep caramel in color. I will be sure to cycle the front and rear hydraulics a couple of times and recheck the level.

 

[duckstab]

I discovered what was preventing the Hi/Lo shifter from moving. The right-side footrest was bent downward slightly, putting slight pressure on the right brake pedal. It was deflecting the pedal by less than an eighth of an inch and I only noticed because i released the plate that joins the left and right pedals, and one pedal was slightly higher than the other. I corrected the footrest and now the shifter, and all ten gears work just fine.

I am happy to have it resolved!

 

[Russell King]

Duckstab - glad you got it resolved!
I have a L185F also and routinely shift from high to low while holding the brake pedal down and also not holding the pedal down. I find it interesting that yours would not shift with the pedal slightly depressed. I have not looked at the parts manual to see if there is anything in that area that would affect the hi-lo shift but my lever is on the left (sitting in the seat) while the brakes are on the right. I do recall that the left brake linkage does cross over and runs front to rear around the same area as the shift lever. Do you know exactly what was jammed?

Also have just changed the transmission fluid with similar results to yours. Drained out over 5 gallons. Had the level plug out and was diligently pouring in the new 5 gallon bucket of oil when I heard oil leaking onto the floor. Still had probably a half quart to quart in the 5 gallons and probably same amount drained out after I quite pouring. Ran tractor for some time and still seems correct level. Never even opened the next gallon. I guess I will continue to check it over the next few weeks.

 

[duckstab]

I cannot say for certain why that caused the lever to be immovable. My guess is that because the brake was always slightly engaged it kept some tension on the drive train between the axle and transmission (between which lies the shifter fork. If I understand the manuals correctly)?

Our tractors are the same based on your description. My setup is the same as you described.

As a test, try coming to a stop using the brake and keep the brake depressed. Shift in to neutral (with brake still depressed) and try to shift the hi/lo. That should recreate my situation. You could try it with both brakes, or just the right brake (as was my case). I would be curious to know the outcome.

 

[Russell King]

I'll mess around with it the next time I am driving my tractor and let you know. It will probably be this weekend.