Looking to get a trailer to hall my lawn mower and tractor. What size trailer would I need to hall my L18dt with a loader and I would also like to get a blade for it also.
L185Dt trailer size
- Thread starter brett1148
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
An all aluminum, 30', tandem axle, 14K GVW, would certainly be adequate!
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
yeah, until it breaks, in the middle of nowhere and NOBODY can weld it back into roadworthy condition.
worse yet on a high,go for help, come back and 'orange' is missing......
worse yet on a high,go for help, come back and 'orange' is missing......
Show me on this doll where aluminum trailers hurt you in the past...
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Do you really think a 2382 pound L145DT is going to break a 14K
aluminum trailer?GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
You obviously haven't been on the 'main drag' here in Hamilton !!!
Truckers will take the 1/2-1hr 'bypass' to save their rides
The issue I have is aluminum isn't as easy to weld as steel, and it'll corrode.
Every 'welder repair shop' can weld steel, not all can weld aluminum.
Truckers will take the 1/2-1hr 'bypass' to save their rides
The issue I have is aluminum isn't as easy to weld as steel, and it'll corrode.
Every 'welder repair shop' can weld steel, not all can weld aluminum.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I lived in Minneapolis/St. Paul for 23 years!
I think I do know a little bit about highway salt corrosion!
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I truly believe that Nova Scotia is even worse than Ontario.
Salt from roadside, as well as salt from Atlantic Ocean.
One issue with aluminum trailers (and yes, I have one) when there's salt around is that that aluminum doesn't do well in a galvanic couple with steel. It's kind of hard to build an aluminum trailer without using steel parts. Another problem with aluminum is that it's amphoteric which means it corrodes in both acidic and alkaline environments.
@brett1148, as for a good trailer it doesn't sound like you need much given your intended use. However, what will you be pulling it with, do you want room to grow either the tow rig and/or the load, is budget an issue etc.?
Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I suggest that you get a tandem axle trailer with brakes on at least one of the axles but both would be better. It will be nearly impossible to move around by hand but is much safer to tow. If you have a blowout on the trailer you will be able to avoid having a wreck. The trailer brakes will help you avoid wrecks when people pull out in front of you.
I have a 10 foot single axle (3750 lb? Axle) that will move the tractor around but no room for a loader or any implement of any length.
I have a 10 foot single axle (3750 lb? Axle) that will move the tractor around but no room for a loader or any implement of any length.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
EXCELLENT safety advice!
Trailer wreck pulled friend/vehicle off the road, and caused his death!
The OP might want to look into a brake controller too. The Tekonsha's I have are essential when towing.
All of my trailers, with the exception of the CargoPro aluminum trailer, have brakes on all wheels. It's the law in Montana that any trailer with a GVWR of 3,000lb or more must have brakes on all wheels and a system capable of proving breaking force for up to 15 minutes in the event of an unintended separation of the trailer and tow vehicle.
What's not required by Montana state law are chains between the trailer and tow vehicle, unless the GVWR of the trailer is under 3,000lb. This makes sense since trailers under 3,000lb don't have brakes on the wheels.
My boat trailer has a surge brake which is probably the norm since boat trailers tend to get submerged.
All the good natured BS, aside. What you are pulling with will make a lot of difference in what you are pulling. A 1 ton pick up will pull like its not there, yes a KIA suv might not be the right choice.
To many people worry more about the " GO" and not enough about the " WHOA " ! Breaking is more then likely the most important part of trailering,
I dont know what your tractor weighs and what all you want to load on the trailer, but a bit if an over kill is not a bad thing. Figure out all your weights and go 10% more.
Also the right kind of hitch, again what you are pulling with you need to have it adapted to the trailer.
This is just MHO mind you
To many people worry more about the " GO" and not enough about the " WHOA " ! Breaking is more then likely the most important part of trailering,
I dont know what your tractor weighs and what all you want to load on the trailer, but a bit if an over kill is not a bad thing. Figure out all your weights and go 10% more.
Also the right kind of hitch, again what you are pulling with you need to have it adapted to the trailer.
This is just MHO mind you
All you mention Skeets is important, but proper tongue weight is extremely important. You have that off far enough and brakes won't matter much!!
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