I was finally able to mount both a oil pressure sensor as well as a coolant temperature sensor on my L1801. Question is what are the acceptable readings for both gauges?
L185/L1801 oil pressure and coolant temp question
- Thread starter meanjean
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for oil i don't know but with a very good radiator and the right mix of antifreeze with everything working great at the cooling system.
my temp sender is in the water lines of the head my small 1501 reads steady 100c (212f) here in Greece with 40c (107f) summers when tilling or cutting grass with maximum for some seconds 107c (224f)
i have never see more than that..
normally it is around 90c-95c (194-200f) with the trailer or the water pump
here is a picture of the sender unit...
my temp sender is in the water lines of the head my small 1501 reads steady 100c (212f) here in Greece with 40c (107f) summers when tilling or cutting grass with maximum for some seconds 107c (224f)
i have never see more than that..
normally it is around 90c-95c (194-200f) with the trailer or the water pump
here is a picture of the sender unit...
Meanjean, you have pictures of your install, i am curious to see how you did them.
Nice to be able to monitor oil and coolant in case something goes bad.
As far as oil pressure goes, 15 psi at idle,could go as high as 50 or so when at pto rpms.
Your engine could vary either way, depending on oil used and oil temp.
Nice to be able to monitor oil and coolant in case something goes bad.
As far as oil pressure goes, 15 psi at idle,could go as high as 50 or so when at pto rpms.
Your engine could vary either way, depending on oil used and oil temp.
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I've attached 4 pictures for your viewing pleasure.
I feel that the ideal place for the sensor is the coolant flange although other options are fine as well. The only issue with installing at the coolant flange is that the head must be removed to install here. The problem with this is the head gasket would most likely require replacement.
I suppose you could tap and install without removing the head but would need to remove rad, and rad housing. You would then need to work around the fan which would be in the way. Going this route also makes it very difficult to remove any pieces of metal which fall into the water jacket during drilling/tapping process but there are always ways of dealing with that problem. One could remove much of the debris with a magnet.
One could also install at the coolant petcock. Temperature reported would not be at it's peak temperature but a sudden spike would be reported which is sufficient.
I feel that the ideal place for the sensor is the coolant flange although other options are fine as well. The only issue with installing at the coolant flange is that the head must be removed to install here. The problem with this is the head gasket would most likely require replacement.
I suppose you could tap and install without removing the head but would need to remove rad, and rad housing. You would then need to work around the fan which would be in the way. Going this route also makes it very difficult to remove any pieces of metal which fall into the water jacket during drilling/tapping process but there are always ways of dealing with that problem. One could remove much of the debris with a magnet.
One could also install at the coolant petcock. Temperature reported would not be at it's peak temperature but a sudden spike would be reported which is sufficient.
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85Hokie
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Looking at your gauge, the radiator temps should be close to 200, I would expect your engine to take a bit of time to climb to 180 and then it should sit there around 190 or so.....now I could be off base, I diesel is not as big of a heater as a gas engine, but the temps still have to get to a point to get the condensation out of the oil. Diesels run cooler, thats why most button up the front on big rigs, to keep what little heat they have.
Oil pressure, on a tight engine, I would say 50+ cold, and then drop to 35 at a slow idle, I have known old fords that would idle at 5 psi........
the amp gauge show always show a small charge, after starting then back off once the regulator is satisfied.
let us know what you get cold and hot!
Thanks all for the replies.
I've only gone up and down the driveway a few times to confirm the dials are working. Here's what I've seen:
Oil psi is roughly 60-70 psi at idle
Coolant temperature is roughly 190F at idle
I've only gone up and down the driveway a few times to confirm the dials are working. Here's what I've seen:
Oil psi is roughly 60-70 psi at idle
Coolant temperature is roughly 190F at idle
Thanks all for the replies.
I've only gone up and down the driveway a few times to confirm the dials are working. Here's what I've seen:
Oil psi is roughly 60-70 psi at idle
Coolant temperature is roughly 190F at idle
I've only gone up and down the driveway a few times to confirm the dials are working. Here's what I've seen:
Oil psi is roughly 60-70 psi at idle
Coolant temperature is roughly 190F at idle
85Hokie
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let it good and hot, work the snot out of her and see if any of them move
so far sounds good!
Tilled for about 45 mins this evening.
Oil pressure was between 45 and 60 psi
Coolant temp would hover around 180F while at idle.
Managed to get up to 205F while working it pretty hard.
Weather was roughly 25 Celcius, 77 Fahrenheit for my US brothers.
A bit high?
Sorry for the sideways picture.
Oil pressure was between 45 and 60 psi
Coolant temp would hover around 180F while at idle.
Managed to get up to 205F while working it pretty hard.
Weather was roughly 25 Celcius, 77 Fahrenheit for my US brothers.
A bit high?
Sorry for the sideways picture.
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85Hokie
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My opinion, everything is exactly where it should be, and you have good baseline to go by.
I have an opinion, a voltmeter is better for indicating problems than an ammeter.
Less wiring to give problems too. All your alternator current flows through ammeter.
Less wiring to give problems too. All your alternator current flows through ammeter.
85Hokie
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I agree completely, and ammeter is nice but really is no where as nice as a volt meter, and the wiring does suck too!!!
I also agree, a voltmeter would have been better.
Went with am meter as it was one of the 3 gauges my neighbor supplied as well as help lead the install. Chris saved me $60+ and 5 hours of installing/swearing.
Running the power to am meter was bugger all. 2 wires off the alternator plus some power for dial lights. Easy peasy.
Went with am meter as it was one of the 3 gauges my neighbor supplied as well as help lead the install. Chris saved me $60+ and 5 hours of installing/swearing.
Running the power to am meter was bugger all. 2 wires off the alternator plus some power for dial lights. Easy peasy.
85Hokie
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the two wires you mention must be a lead and a return wire, heavy- heavy gauge wire...cannot run a little 18 gauge wire there I am sure as you know....
ALL the current that runs from the alternator, MUST run through the ammeter, cannot be in parallel.......must be in series!
Coolant temp
While tilling I was hovering around 210F
Managed to peak at 240F.
Not good
Swapped over to the mower and got to 250F in short order.
Not good
It's a recored radiator with fresh coolant.
Belt is nice and tight so shouldn't be slipping.
Rad screen is nice and clean.
Why am I over heating?
While tilling I was hovering around 210F
Managed to peak at 240F.
Not good
Swapped over to the mower and got to 250F in short order.
Not good
It's a recored radiator with fresh coolant.
Belt is nice and tight so shouldn't be slipping.
Rad screen is nice and clean.
Why am I over heating?
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85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
start from a cold engine, will it get hot quickly? or does it get to temp and stay, either you have a head gasket problem all of sudden, i really dont think so, or the engine under a huge load is NOT getting cooled fast enough.
there IS A thermostat in there, right? never run one without one.......
what happens if you get to 210 then stop tilling or whatever and run around a bit not putting a load on it? does it continue to climb or lower?
what happens if you place it back in idle for 5 minutes? does it climb from 210 or drop?
if there is any head gasket problems, it will rise and rise......if a bad radiator it can cool to a point then start to lose the battle.....
report back from a cold start
Thanks very much for the prompt reply.
From a cold start it will slowly creep into the 180F range.
I've found that normal operating temperature without any load is roughly 180F. It does not take long for the engine to get into the 210F range with a load. I will remove the load and idle and the temp decreases into the high 190F range.
It's a brand new head gasket.
It's a brand new recore on rad.
Lots of coolant and rated to -45C says the coolant tester.
There is no thermostat on this engine.
Uses something called thermo syphoning to circulate the coolant.
My neighbor suggested that a heavy load from the alternator will make the coolant sensor read higher than it really is. He also pointed out that it's a cheapo coolant sensor. Says he can install diodes in the sensor wiring to calibrate the reading provided the gauge is inaccurate. He provided me with a hand help temp sensor (laser one). He suggested I get the engine good and hot then check temp at a few spots to verify temp. Although the dial says 250F it may be 20 points cooler. Will be testing this theory in the next 10 mins, just warming up now. Stay tuned.
From a cold start it will slowly creep into the 180F range.
I've found that normal operating temperature without any load is roughly 180F. It does not take long for the engine to get into the 210F range with a load. I will remove the load and idle and the temp decreases into the high 190F range.
It's a brand new head gasket.
It's a brand new recore on rad.
Lots of coolant and rated to -45C says the coolant tester.
There is no thermostat on this engine.
Uses something called thermo syphoning to circulate the coolant.
My neighbor suggested that a heavy load from the alternator will make the coolant sensor read higher than it really is. He also pointed out that it's a cheapo coolant sensor. Says he can install diodes in the sensor wiring to calibrate the reading provided the gauge is inaccurate. He provided me with a hand help temp sensor (laser one). He suggested I get the engine good and hot then check temp at a few spots to verify temp. Although the dial says 250F it may be 20 points cooler. Will be testing this theory in the next 10 mins, just warming up now. Stay tuned.