L1801 blowing oil

[meanjean]

Screwing a new filter on had become progressively harder each time I've done it.
I considered visiting a machine shop but the price for a new part along with all required valves is likely cheaper if not on par with a machine shop.

 

[meanjean]

UPDATE

Installed new oil filter assembly, and head gasket. As we were turning it over to bleed fuel I noticed oil pouring out again. Closer inspection reveals the source of the leak, the hole as seen in the picture! Part number anyone?

In the end the oil filter assembly needed replacing anyways. This unfortunate leak forced me to replace it.

 

[Russell King]

34150-27580 is a small plug in that area for the L185.

You can search for the L185 parts on Kubota.com and look to see if you think it may be what is missing.

My tractor is no where close so I can't look.

If you need I will look this week end.

 

[meanjean]

Thanks for posting a part number.
Probably a $7 plug and a week of grief!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Try $.88 plus shipping!

http://www.goldeneagledirect.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=105904

 

[meanjean]

Here's the culprit.
A tiny rubber plug in the shape of a top hat.
Picked one up at the dealer for $1.11
I'm surprised this little bugger does not require threads.

It's a good thing I was on the tractor when this plug cut loose.
Imagine leaving the tractor running while you run in for a cup of coffee and the plug cuts loose. Motor wouldn't run very long!

Going to replace this and see what happens.

 

[Russell King]

How do you know that part came from that hole?

It seems it would have to be more substantial than that to hold oil pressure. I would think something like a "freeze plug" but what do I know about tractor engine design?

 

[Daren Todd]

I have to agree with russell on this. That looks like a plug used to protect the threads on an unused bolt hole.

 

[meanjean]

How do you know that part came from that hole?

It seems it would have to be more substantial than that to hold oil pressure. I would think something like a "freeze plug" but what do I know about tractor engine design?

Russel King is 100% correct, that part did not come from that hole. I was hesitant at the dealership when told it was the proper part but buddy wasn't interested in helping me confirm it was the correct part. I paid my $1.11 and left.

I ended up tapping the hole and installing a pipe thread plug.
It was a hairy procedure as the tap broke off in the hole, yikes!

My wife helped me bleed the fuel lines and we both crossed our fingers for start up, it's alive!

I've since removed the rad and am going to inquire about having it recored. Hoping to be back in business by Friday latest.
Thanks again to all who have offered advise.

 

[meanjean]

As the previous post stated I had everything buckled up and only needed to re-torque the head bolts for the 2nd time. That's when I noticed a coolant leak front the water flange. To remove the water flange I had to remove the head again.....

Question

Am I going to have to replace my next to new head gasket?
It's been torqued once and the tractors run for no more than 2 minutes.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You should be fine if it wasn't stuck in place.

 

[meanjean]

I spoke to the owner of a local dealer and he also suggested I should be fine.
May increase the torque of head bolts from 57 ft lbs to 67 ft lbs.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Hi Meanjean.
My background is automotive, and have used many sealants and found loctite coppercoat a good sealant for head gaskets. For quite some time the dodge four cylinder engines were a problem. Using a sealant helped with this.

Chrysler later came out with a head gasket that was treated with a tacky substance.

Just thinking your oil leak was a result of a thin casting or a hole that was drilled too deep, and the old plug had enough and left.

You can be sure im going to look at mine today and prepare to do something about it.

 

[meanjean]

A few things led to my head gasket failing the first time including using a sealant. I was advised that you are not supposed to use sealant for this particular application. The #1 reason for my woes was the lack of an o-ring on the oil gallery. I've since had the radiator recored which should bring the operating temperature down as well. Hoping to get it right this time!