Heres a few pics of inside the final drive of a 1501 for those interested. Just replacing the leaky axle seal. Everything looks new like the day it was built in there.
Eric
Eric
L1501DT rear axle seal replacement
- Thread starter EricDraper
- Start date
Are you going to change the bearings also. Usually when a seal starts to leak its because the bearing is starting to wear and you have it all apart now??
Negative. Everything is brand new looking/feeling in there. The outboard side of the seal cavity that is exposed to the elements was packed with sand and grass etc. Years of sand being in there helped the seal wear the nice groves in the sacrificial sealing surface. (thanks kubota for installing those at mfg and not just letting the seals run on the axle and ruin it).
Hi Eric,
Can you share your steps/process for replacing the seal? How did you get the bearing case to split? How much tear down was involved? I just had the rear end all torn down on my L1500DT and after reassembly and oil fill, discovered the right side rear axle is leaking fluid. I really don't want to open up all of that again. Any suggestions you have are appreciated.
Thanks,
Joel
Can you share your steps/process for replacing the seal? How did you get the bearing case to split? How much tear down was involved? I just had the rear end all torn down on my L1500DT and after reassembly and oil fill, discovered the right side rear axle is leaking fluid. I really don't want to open up all of that again. Any suggestions you have are appreciated.
Thanks,
Joel
Hey Joel,
It's about as simple as it looks. Jack up the offending side so that u don't have to drain all the oil. Take out the final drive drain plug and drain. Remove the wheel, undo and remove the ring of bolts on the final drive as u see pictured, if the gaskets are really old or dry you may have to pry a bit to break loose but the outter cover will pull right off with the axle stub and bull gear as well as bull gear pinion and shaft. Remove nut on end of axle stub shaft holding bull gear in place. Keep all shims and washers in correct order and position. The bull gear will slide off simultaneously with the pinion gearshaft and it's bearings. At this point working from memory, you are left with the axle stub and outter case. You can support the case in a press and using heat you can push the axle from the bearing. You can remove both snap rings to remove bearing and seal. The seal includes a seal runner or sleeve that is pressed onto the axle which must be removed as well. Reverse the procedure after replacing seal and runner. Word of caution, be sure you push seal runner or sleeve far enough onto axle otherwise it will contact the face of the seal ruining it as well as preloading the axle bearings once u tighten the bull gear retaining nut. If u press the runner too far the seal can leak. All in all, it takes about 3-4 hrs a side to change seals. As long as u have a press it is easy.
It's about as simple as it looks. Jack up the offending side so that u don't have to drain all the oil. Take out the final drive drain plug and drain. Remove the wheel, undo and remove the ring of bolts on the final drive as u see pictured, if the gaskets are really old or dry you may have to pry a bit to break loose but the outter cover will pull right off with the axle stub and bull gear as well as bull gear pinion and shaft. Remove nut on end of axle stub shaft holding bull gear in place. Keep all shims and washers in correct order and position. The bull gear will slide off simultaneously with the pinion gearshaft and it's bearings. At this point working from memory, you are left with the axle stub and outter case. You can support the case in a press and using heat you can push the axle from the bearing. You can remove both snap rings to remove bearing and seal. The seal includes a seal runner or sleeve that is pressed onto the axle which must be removed as well. Reverse the procedure after replacing seal and runner. Word of caution, be sure you push seal runner or sleeve far enough onto axle otherwise it will contact the face of the seal ruining it as well as preloading the axle bearings once u tighten the bull gear retaining nut. If u press the runner too far the seal can leak. All in all, it takes about 3-4 hrs a side to change seals. As long as u have a press it is easy.
Just thinking outloud here but I am not familiar with a l1500 but I believe it uses a dry brake system. Whereas the l1501 uses a wet brake system so I'm not even certain if the rear axle seal replacement I described for the 1501 even applies to you. Maybe some one else can confirm.
Eric,
Thanks for the time and reply. I believe you're correct. After looking at your pictures again, the 1501 rear set up is different that the 1500. I've attached a picture of my 1500. This is the opposite side of the leak, but just a picture I had when it was disassembled. My main issue is splitting the bearing case on the side - anyone have advice on how to get that apart?
Joel
Thanks for the time and reply. I believe you're correct. After looking at your pictures again, the 1501 rear set up is different that the 1500. I've attached a picture of my 1500. This is the opposite side of the leak, but just a picture I had when it was disassembled. My main issue is splitting the bearing case on the side - anyone have advice on how to get that apart?
Joel
Hey joel,
That's definitely different than a 1501 but it looks like it would be similar in contruction. I read in another post of yours that your brakes were found to be covered in oil due to a leak. I would imagine if u removed your brake cover and whatever hub or rotor is under there, that there is a seal just in behind. I'd be surprised if that whole casting has to be removed but if it does it is probably a very similar setup to mine. A large nut to removed that would allow the gear and axle to be witdrawn and then u can access the smaller pininion shaft that would have the seal in question.
Hope that helps a little
Eric
That's definitely different than a 1501 but it looks like it would be similar in contruction. I read in another post of yours that your brakes were found to be covered in oil due to a leak. I would imagine if u removed your brake cover and whatever hub or rotor is under there, that there is a seal just in behind. I'd be surprised if that whole casting has to be removed but if it does it is probably a very similar setup to mine. A large nut to removed that would allow the gear and axle to be witdrawn and then u can access the smaller pininion shaft that would have the seal in question.
Hope that helps a little
Eric
No issues with my brakes - I believe that may have been another person in the post. The picture I showed was the rear of my 1500 torn down when I rebuilt the transmission. Under some misguidance of the service manual, I opened up the rear end when splitting. It turned out to be a good thing as there was a significant amount of crud/debris. I flushed and cleaned out the case and changed the axle nuts as I had removed them thinking the rear axles and pig had to be pulled in order to release the transmission case from the rear case. I figured out that was not true after stepping back a moment and re-evaluating. However now with everything all back together, I found that the right side rear axle is leaking.
To me, it seems like I will have to pull the hydraulic cover (under the seat) back off, remove the axle nut, try to split the respective side bearing case, and extract the axle half to get at and replace the seal. Does that sound correct? Can the axle halves be removed another way?
Thanks,
Joel
To me, it seems like I will have to pull the hydraulic cover (under the seat) back off, remove the axle nut, try to split the respective side bearing case, and extract the axle half to get at and replace the seal. Does that sound correct? Can the axle halves be removed another way?
Thanks,
Joel
Hi Joel, I'm trying to replace the rear axle seals in my L1500DT, which is same as your posted pic, would I be correct saying the whole axle case top cover needs to be removed to get at a circlip or nut off the internal end of the axle to allow it to be withdrawn. I have already removed the 4 bolts from the external bearing retainer plate. Can you confirm please.
I'm in Australia and having great difficulty getting an illustrated parts listing for this gray market tractor.
The L1500DT was not sold in Australia.
Cheers
Bigfella1 (Martyn)
I'm in Australia and having great difficulty getting an illustrated parts listing for this gray market tractor.
The L1500DT was not sold in Australia.
Cheers
Bigfella1 (Martyn)
Last edited:
Daren Todd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
That seems to be a common occurance with snap rings and circle clips 
I've had a few launch, never to be seen again the worst was hitting the boss at the other end of the shop 100ft away pinged right off the back of his head !!!! That was a once in a life time shot
I've had a few launch, never to be seen again the worst was hitting the boss at the other end of the shop 100ft away pinged right off the back of his head !!!! That was a once in a life time shot