Hey guys, I have a z750 engine 2 cyl. runs perfect but at a low idle oil light comes on. Thought maybe my oil was getting a little thin so I changed it yesterday. Put in Rotella 10W 30 Diesel oil with a new Fram filter as well. After spending about an hour an a half cutting food plots it went and done it again. Throttle her up a tad and light goes out. has anyone experienced this before and if so how hard is it to fix and how much damage to my billfold will it do. Thanks ahead of time. Keith.
L1500DT oil light on
- Thread starter L.KEITH
- Start date
CaveCreekRay
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L3800 HST, KingKutter box scraper, KingKutter 66" rake, County Pride Subsoiler
No experience with your model but, it has to be either your oil pump dropping below the specified pressure or the pressure sensor is out of calibration and going on early. Grey market tractors are notoriously hard to get parts for but some of the parts may be interchangeable with other machines.
One key factor is time in operation. Does this machine have a zillion hours? Has the oil been serviced regularly? Both of these contribute to wear in the oil pump. A little more info might help one of our owners with a similar machine help you troubleshoot the issue.
Good luck!
Ray
One key factor is time in operation. Does this machine have a zillion hours? Has the oil been serviced regularly? Both of these contribute to wear in the oil pump. A little more info might help one of our owners with a similar machine help you troubleshoot the issue.
Good luck!
Ray
L.KEITH, do a search here on the forum (that black line above by New Post) for "oil plug in camshaft". Some form of those words will get you to a post.
The plug was alum. and inserted in a steel hole at the end of the cam shaft. After many heat/cooling cycles the plug is ejected. Need to go in and replace.
I used a tapered roller bearing, tapped into the hole and welded in place. If you weld need to be sure to have good ground close as possible to work to eliminate any arc going through bearings. You can also get a kit from Kubota.
The plug was alum. and inserted in a steel hole at the end of the cam shaft. After many heat/cooling cycles the plug is ejected. Need to go in and replace.
I used a tapered roller bearing, tapped into the hole and welded in place. If you weld need to be sure to have good ground close as possible to work to eliminate any arc going through bearings. You can also get a kit from Kubota.
Thanks Ray, Tractor has about 7 hrs on since recent partial rebuild,new head w/valves,pistons rings,and rods. don't believe oil pump was worked on or sending unit. Had 198 hrs on it when I got it from an old man and it had been sitting in a barn out of the weather. The fuse for the hour meter was blown.
Thanks D2Cat, I will give that a shot on the forum. I think I may have been looking at the temperature sensor, on the left side of the block (from driver seat)and has a single wire going to it. But you are saying it is in the end of the cam shaft.
He is saying the alum plug is in the end of the camshaft, which falls out and allows oil to leak back to sump and hence low oil pressure. Need to go into engine and repair end of camshaft, ie., replace plug.
Thanks 100 td, Is there any way to know for sure that the plug fell out without having to go inside engine. And is there anything else that may cause this that I could check first? Thanks for your help!
Pretty hard to know for positive it fell out, but your symptoms are on target.
Oh, ask Daren Todd, he found his in his oil pan!
Oh, ask Daren Todd, he found his in his oil pan!
North Idaho Wolfman
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Knowing it's got an issue, your pushing your luck till it does some serious damage to the engine.
That repair is fairly cheap and easy to do, I would just jump in and attack it, and get it fixed once and for all.
That repair is fairly cheap and easy to do, I would just jump in and attack it, and get it fixed once and for all.
Daren Todd
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Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
It's not a bad repair. Tearing it down isn't bad. Couple hours to disassemble the front end and to get the crank case cover off. Figure an hour or two scraping the old gasket off. (That was the hardest part) And a few hours to assemble. I replaced the front main seal, collar, o'rings and fan bearings while I was in there. Cost under $150 for all the parts and gaskets. The plug is less then $5.
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If it's not the cam plug, try the oil pump suction pipe O-ring, and while you are at it, check the sump screen. Requires dropping the oil pan...
The engine was rebuilt (partially) 7 hours ago. After the rebuild, does the engine idle at the same speed as before? Could it be as simple as low rpm causing the pump to go below the pressure necessary to turn out the light? How much increase is required for he light to go off?
Hey rentthis, Tractor did not run when I got it. Had oil in radiator so did not bother to try and start it. Just tore it down and my service guy told me about everything that looked really worn and I told him if it looks rough replace it with a new part. spent about $2K on new parts and she runs really really good other than this issue.
New head with valves,pistons,rings,rods, Had radiator flushed and cleaned due to full of oil when I got it. Numerous other engine parts, however I am at the office today and have a full parts list at home with every thing else that was installed. Not that it matters but also brand new hydraulic cylinders for the FEL. And a new steam whistle on the radiator. I might mention oil light only comes on when hot at 600/800 RPM, throttle her up and she goes out.