L1500 reverse gear

[robd]

I'm new to this site ,I have a Kabota L1500 I've had it for at least 10 years with no problems till now.I think my clutch is bad but not for sure about it.I can not keep it in reverse all it does is grind even in low reverse,but all the others gears work,The reason why I'm not sure if its the clutch is because ,after having the reverse grinding problem,I remove the shifters,and the plate under it,which was the biggest pain in the butt to get all the forks back were they were suppose to be.2 hours later.but when I had it removed. Sitting on the seat looking down into the tranny, all the way to the right, was a wide gear that the third fork went on.It looked like about a half inch of the rear part of the gear was wore round.I think it is my reverse but not sure,It seems the front part of the gear is ok though. Is that the reverse ,and would that bit missing stop it from going into reverse.Seem to be a lot of the gear still fine.hope it is the clutch though.Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[robd]

well from what ,Ive been told is,that since all the other gears n PTO is working correctly.The clutch should not be my problem.Most likely it is the reverse gear which is also first gear is wore to much on the reverse side of it.How hard is it to replace the reverse gear.does the whole inside of the tranny have to be disassembled or can it be removed without taking everything out of the transmission.

 

[gomer]

Just got one myself and it is doing the same thing. At first it would have to be held in reverse and grinded and now it wont even go into reverse. I hope someone can let me know how to fix this because I really like my lil tractor...

 

[robd]

Yep, it's time to remove that top shifter cover and get a look at the reverse gear and the shifter forks. The gear that is all knarled up will be the reverse gear.

You may need to buy a new main shaft if there is damage elsewhere on that assemblie. I have new main shafts in stock if needed.

yes reverse is ate up pretty bad.Is It very hard, to change out the reverse gear and main shaft.also what would it cost for main shaft and reverse gear.Thanks for the info in advance.

 

[robd]

I have that new shaft in stock, prices at $556, the reverse gear is on order, coming in, and prices at $79.

Is changing out the reverse gear a job that the average guy can do or should I have it done by a professional.

 

[royboy42]

I changed out the reverse gear in my 1500 bout a month or more. didn't even split the tractor. Was stalling on a steering box rebuild when i finished stripping the reverse gear so i had to take the steering box off anyways. The two bolts for the reverse shaft retainer can be gotten too from the cavity underneath the steering box. the shaft will then slide foward. slide new gear with new bushings into place then spend 2 days getting those shift forks to line up at the same time as the PTO shafts.

 

[LRP]

I have that new shaft in stock, prices at $556, the reverse gear is on order, coming in, and prices at $79.

i just paid $360 for the reverse gear here in Quesnel , BC. i will be deffinately
be doing mail order from now on. i just paid $23 for a spray can of k blue.
LRP

 

[LRP]

i too changed the reverse gear without sliting the tractor as described in an ealier post. the hard part is geting the oring seal through the gear. i made
a little tool woth a scrapt peice of pipe. i threaded a 1/4 in hole in the end and
kept puting in longer bolts to push the shaft through. the othet tools is a
1x 1/4 in flat bar bent a bit and a peice of pipe to make a cup to hook
on the reverse shaft to pull it back. the washer was my third hand. i had a small
chain comealong hooked to the ceiling and held the shaft in place while
i pushed the gear back on. i noticed a small shaveing of rubber from the o-ring
when the shaft whent back through the bulkhead. 290 locktite to the rescue. this is the wicking type for assembled parts. it stoped the weeping on the pushed rod tubes on my continental airplane engine . so i put a pea size drop
in a clean bottle cap and with a long flat blade screwdriver, dip and deposit
on the outside part of the shaft.
stay tuned for the easy way of installing the shifter fork ass.( 2 min job)

 

[Orange Tractors]

LRP,

Glad to see you found this place. Nice to hear that it isn't a necessity to split the tractor to replace the reverse gear; I am going to have to do that to my L175 soon.

Your pictures of homemade special tools help a lot, too.

Robert

 

[LRP]

IMHO the reverse gear is a design flaw. the reverse gear barely meshes
in front and the back part is also barely meshed. i noticed that when u put it
in reverse, u can go past the dedent notch in the shifter shaft about 1/8 in.
sooooo, i don,t want to do this again. i made a auto reverse lock so it can,t
jump out of gear. to shift out of reverse, extended index finger easily
unlocks the lever. i thought of a few more ways to do this, but since i had started this way and i knew it would work, i forged foward. these pics should
explain everything. i guess i should say that the black bar is .060 banding,
straping material, 1 1/4 in wide.

 

[LRP]

LRP,

Glad to see you found this place. Nice to hear that it isn't a necessity to split the tractor to replace the reverse gear; I am going to have to do that to my L175 soon.

Your pictures of homemade special tools help a lot, too.

Robert

.
reflecting back, if i was to do it again. i would push the reverse shaft forward
first and try to remove the o-ring that is just behind the locking grouve. that o-ring makes the job hard as there is 2 bushings in the reverse gear and there
is a space between them. good luck. did u see the reverse lock i made for the
shifter lever. it gives the reverse gear another 1/8 in of mesh.
Louis

 

[Old habits]

G'Day Royboy42,

found your reply about reverse gear changing, if I'm reading you post correctly, with the steering box off it is possible to pull the idler shaft back into the clutch housing far enough to get the idler out and replace?

Sounds to easy other than the fork alignment!