L01 Rear Ballast

[kubotafreak]

The lugs are M16-1.5 if my memory serves. It would be nice if you could get two stage lug nuts like duals use.

 

[TheOldHokie]

This is that weight on a 24" rim. The same disk that would come with the r1 for your tractor. Mine was a 3560 and it shared the same disk for the r1/r4 same as r1 for the 3901. As long as the interior diameter can facilitate the weight it would work. I don't think a 19.5 would have enough room...

Thanks for the picture - pretty much what I garnered from the parts list and I agree its likely too big to fit inside the 19.5 wheel. See my other reply for my other thoughts.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

The lugs are M16-1.5 if my memory serves. It would be nice if you could get two stage lug nuts like duals use.

Got a picture of those fasteners - I can make just about anything.

Dan

 

[kubotafreak]

These hold the inner wheels on duals if the outer comes off. vs-The more conventional way for smaller rigs is one nut sandwiching both rims at once.

(BUDD style)

"edit"
May be easier to find longer lug studs and slide the plate over the extended portion past the original lug nut. I know the factory puts like two studs as locators, and the rest bolts. You could swap for more than the two studs.

 

[TheOldHokie]

These hold the inner wheels on duals if the outer comes off. vs-The more conventional way for smaller rigs is one nut sandwiching both rims at once.


(BUDD style)

I think I see how that worked. The adapter I pictured was used on Ford's dual wheel setups. The hex with female thread secured the inner wheel like a conventional lug nut. Then the outer wheel bolted to the male extensions using a spacer ring and a second nut. At one point those adapters were hard to get and I have made more than a few of them.

 

[TheOldHokie]

"edit"
May be easier to find longer lug studs and slide the plate over the extended portion past the original lug nut. I know the factory puts like two studs as locators, and the rest bolts. You could swap for more than the two studs.

Yes - my motto is KISS. and after a little straight edge work I think that's the way to go. Use three longer studs staggered at 120 degrees as pilots for the first plate. Use a hex hex nut on each stud to hold the wheel to the hub as per factory which will also space the first plate up clear of the three cap screws and dish on the wheel. Then use a second nut to hold that first plate to the studs. Layer two more plates on to that base plate using three cap screws for each additional plate.

Three 1" x 14" plates should get you close to the 180# per wheel target and still fit inside the wheel and behind the valve stem guard. The local metal supply stocks 1" A36 plate and I would guess they can cut six plates with for less than Kubota wants for the factory weights.

Dan

 

[kubotafreak]

I like the way you think. Im always a fan for improvement with little to no degradation to oem form.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I like the way you think. Im always a fan for improvement with little to no degradation to oem form.

Thanks but apparently my arithmetic isn't as good as my thinking Some how I came up with the wrong density for steel and it wasn't even close. The plates need to be 16" to get to that 180# number. Other than cost should not be an issue - here is a 14" faceplate set inside the wheel and there seems to be plenty of clearance. Thicker plate might be better but I am not sure what the local metal supply's capabilities are.

Dan

 

[Borgf15]

Just took delivery of a L3901 with LA525 loader and loaded R4s. Its clear it needs more ballast. Looking for wheel weight recommendations from folks that have put them on their tractor - OEM or after market sources. And yes - rear wheel weights - not alternative solutions.

Dan

Just curious why you don't want alternative solutions, compared to what you are going thru getting weights on there? 3pt ballast also adds the benefit of less front axle strain/wear. Not being argumentative, just curious if it's a special application you have/need.

 

[jimh406]

I think you bought the wrong tractor if you want to run R4s and weights on a L01. MX models had that option though.

I think the best option would be stay where you are and add spacers, or go to R1s with weights. At least, I think R1s accept weights even if you go to the maximum position.

I’m still getting used to the feeling of my L01 with a rear attachment on, but I think it’s going to work for me. I was kind of surprised that L01s don’t have weights as an option on R4s but other models do. I have the factory 1 in spacers. I should have bought 3 inch after market ones in hindsight although the dealer installed the 1 inch spacers.

 

[BigG]

Just took delivery of a L3901 with LA525 loader and loaded R4s. Its clear it needs more ballast. Looking for wheel weight recommendations from folks that have put them on their tractor - OEM or after market sources. And yes - rear wheel weights - not alternative solutions.

Dan

You ask for help then limit the answers. The correct fix is to ballast the 3 point hitch to reduce the load on the front axle. Rear weights will help keep the tires on the ground but they do nothing to lighten the load on the front axle, tires, and power steering plus related parts. If rear hanging weight box is built correctly it can fit between the 3 point arms. There is an example on OTT where the box is full of melted down wheel weights and it is very small and very heavy.

I have done 4 cast iron wheel weights, loaded tires and a box blade or mower hanging off the back and still wore out the front end. This was on a MF1528.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I think you bought the wrong tractor if you want to run R4s and weights on a L01. MX models had that option though.

I think the best option would be stay where you are and add spacers, or go to R1s with weights. At least, I think R1s accept weights even if you go to the maximum position.

I’m still getting used to the feeling of my L01 with a rear attachment on, but I think it’s going to work for me. I was kind of surprised that L01s don’t have weights as an option on R4s but other models do. I have the factory 1 in spacers. I should have bought 3 inch after market ones in hindsight although the dealer installed the 1 inch spacers.

Thank you all for your input. I have had another week in the seat of the new machine and I am getting more accustomed to it.

After market (3") spacers are on the list and I am sure they will help considerably. I was very close to getting R1s and had I realized this additional wheel weight limitation with the R4s I may well have stayed with R1s.

I asked for specific help with wheel weights based on 30 years personal experience operating a wide range of tractors in my current working conditions. This tractor is used for a lot of tasks including heavy loader work in tight quarters and side hill conditions. Over the years I have tried just about everything. My judgement based on that experience is that for a variety of reasons the "correct" solution for me is wheel weights not a rear implement or ballast box.

Regardless of what I do if I wear out the "front end" on this machine it will be another disappointment in Kubota engineering. The little B7200 and LA120 loader I purchased in 1991 has been pushed well beyond anything it was ever designed for and about the only thing I have not broken or worn out on it is the front end. That axle is built like a tank.

The OEM wheel weight information KubotaFreak provided was very insightful and I have a well equipped machine shop. I don't anticipate problems hanging 300#-400# pounds of steel plate on the R4's. It would have been nicer had Kubota provided a factory means to do that but in their infinite marketing wisdom they chose otherwise.

Dan