L series rear remotes ... which valve?

[Rmart30]

Looking to put 2 rear remotes on my L4600... Which valves would be best to get. Ones with full detent or no detent?

First thing needing remotes for will be a hydraulic shank box blade....
next would be 2 cylinder angle and tilt functions on a grader blade.

Maybe later a top cyl for down pressure on a auger.

May also use one of them to run a grapple bucket one day.

 

[Ron L4760]

Assuming the L4600 doesn't have a rear extra already there like the L4760?


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[Ron L4760]

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[nickelplated5s]

Get 1 with float. I went with the factory kit, more money but a clean install. The directions gave me trouble, all the pictures are not oriented 'north'. There are threads here and over on TBN.
Edit; you'll need a third valve to run hydraulic rippers with a top n tilt kit. With practice you can pretty much match what a land plane will do.

 

[Rmart30]

Get 1 with float. I went with the factory kit, more money but a clean install. The directions gave me trouble, all the pictures are not oriented 'north'. There are threads here and over on TBN.
Edit; you'll need a third valve to run hydraulic rippers with a top n tilt kit. With practice you can pretty much match what a land plane will do.

Wont be putting top n tilt on it... its used 80% just for bush hogging and dont think I need it for that..
Box blade will have 1 cylinder, 2 cylinders on grader blade.

10% disk work, 8% box blade and grader, 2% auger. is its usage.

Upper cylinder instead of top link will only be on it when using auger.

With those im not sure if I even need one with a float position.

 

[nickelplated5s]

Looking to put 2 rear remotes on my L4600... Which valves would be best to get. Ones with full detent or no detent?

First thing needing remotes for will be a hydraulic shank box blade....
next would be 2 cylinder angle and tilt functions on a grader blade.

Maybe later a top cyl for down pressure on a auger.
.

Angle n tilt is top n tilt. Why on earth would you want to swap the top cylinder back and forth with the threaded cylinder? If you are really going to spend the money on a hydraulic shank BB get 3 RR. You're just wasting money if you don't.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I think that the OP is getting a hydraulic actuated rear blade.

As far as using only hydraulic rippers on a box blade, I'm guessing that the OP has not used a box blade much. You adjust the top link constantly when using a box blade, same goes for the side link if you are doing much grading at all.

One of the problems of getting a hydraulic tilt with-for a rear blade is you only get the tilt action for that one implement. If you go with a hydraulic tilt on the 3pt hitch, you then have that capability for all implements.

OP mentioned a PHD, don't you think that the auger ever needs to be plumbed up? The auger only swings back and forth, not side-side. The down pressure cylinder is mounted on the PHD, not the tractor and it is a single acting cylinder only.

Also depending on how rough your terrain is, but it is common to use a hydraulic top link when mowing and have it in the float mode while doing so. If the ground is hilly the mower will not move enough and the wheel ends up in the air. Put a hydraulic top link in float mode and the mower always follows the terrain.

So even using your own listed usage, a top & tilt set would be beneficial.

OP, do yourself a favor and get all 3 rear remotes and at least one of them with the float feature. I would get 2 with the float feature myself.

Good luck with your decisions.