L 285 won't crank

[xmr]

1978 L 285 I have had it since 1983 and it has been very dependable.
When I turn on the key the oil and charging lights come on but when I try to heat up glow plugs or try to crank they go out and the tractor acts like it is dead. the battery checks out ok and I have cleaned the cable connections on both ends. Not sure where to go from here, any help appreciated

 

[Daren Todd]

Load test the battery. Or at least hook a meter to the battery, and have someone else try to crank it to double check the battery. Then repeat process with the cables. If you get a major drop on battery, then the battery has a dead cell. And needs to be replaced. If it does it on one or the other cables, then the cable is bad. Make sure and clean where the ground cable attaches to the frame as well.

If that checks out good, then you need to start tracing the main power wire from starter to the key switch. And checking connections. Even at the terminals on the key switch. Something in there is causing power to drop out.

 

[xmr]

I have taken a vom and checked cables for continuity and voltage so at this point I guess I will have to try to get to the ignition switch after 38 years it may be worn out. It is amazing to think that in all that time it has never failed to start even at 18 degrees. ( well a few times the battery was weak but it started with a jump)

 

[Tooljunkie]

Not typical of an ignition switch. However it is very common for a battery. Best to hold voltmeter on battery posts and hit the starter. It has to be over 9 volts.
Then move to ground on engine and battery terminal on starter.

If it was ign switch, you will be able to crank it with a jumper from bat positive to small wire on starter.make sure its in neutral.

 

[85Hokie]

"I have taken a vom and checked cables for continuity and voltage"

both of these measurements can be very misleading!

Continuity checks a path - whether a good one or weak one.

Voltage test the "pushing" force of the electrons,

What you really need to do is check the total AMPS the battery will give you! Take it to local auto store and have them check it out. IF STILL good - check grounds. Daren pointed this out, which is a good place to start!

 

[Tooljunkie]

Have used both the electronic and carbon pile load testers, electronic tester may miss a faulty battery on occasion, as battery can go open when a heavy load is applied. Used both one after the other, carbon pile never misses, digital/electronic/computerized about 85% accurate.

On that note, a battery that has an internal break poses the risk of expolsion so take the necessary steps to protect yourself.

 

[xmr]

The first thing I did was remove both battery cables and clean the ends and connecting surfaces. then I checked continuity. Battery is showing 13.8 volts.
Now the oil and charging lights will not even come on when the ignition switch is turned on and the glow plugs don't work and it does not even try to crank.
I am going to try jumping the positive to the starter to see if it helps.
Thanks for all the input.

 

[xmr]

The battery was 7 years old so I bought a new battery and it made no difference.

 

[007kubotaguy]

Check the main fuse on the fire wall. Be sure it is clean and the screws are tight.
Good Luck Lance

 

[xmr]

I have checked the fusible link and the other fuses with the vom. All seem ok.
I tried running a wire from the positive post to the small conector on the starter and got a spark and a good solid click but the starter did not crank. I guess I need to pull the starter and have it checked.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Did you polish the bolt that holds ground cable?
When mine acted up i used a new bolt when i cleaned it up.

 

[xmr]

to continue my plight to get the L 285 to run:
I removed the starter and took it to a shop that rebuilds them. I got the starter back the next day and installed it The solenoid would not even click. removed starter and took it back they said they found a broken wire and gave me the starter back. I reinstalled it solenoid cliked but starter motor did not turn. Took starter back to shop they worked on it then gave up and gave me starter from a later model Kubota. It worked great. So now I start working on the problem of the dead dash. I rechecked the fuses and found that since I first checked them the top one was blown. I decided to clean the entire fuse block and 2 of the fuses came apart when I tried to clean the ends, so i replaced all the fuses
I then removed and cleaned the fusible link and its mounting. then when I checked the dash lights came on. the tractor then started a couple of times then would not start so I had the battery checked it showed 830 cca. so it was not the problem so I replaced both battery cables and it has started just fine ever since. The cables had checked ok with the vom but obviously there was some problem with them. they were the originals and were 38 years old.

 

[Daren Todd]

Battery cables are usually pressed into terminals and then crimped. Usually what happens is you get corrosion build up inside the terminals around the wire. Makes for a funky connection. Usually will check good with a continuity check, but doesn't allow enough juice to travel through to start/ turn over tractor.