L-2450 Losing Power Fast...Clutch Problem?

[bradjam]

Hi everyone...I'm really glad I found this forum...what a great resource for Kubota folks!!

Anyways, I'm completely ignorant when it comes to tractor repair, so I'm trying to educate myself as much as I can.

A few weeks ago, my 1996 L 2450 started losing power. My father in law (who knows lots more about mechanics than I do) and I did some basic maintenance such as air filter/fuel filter replacement...but tractor still had no power. At that point, he made an adjustment to the clutch rod and told me it might last another week or another year....but that the clutch was going. That seemed to have fixed the power problem and my wheels were spinning again.

Turns out, it lasted about 2 weeks. Now the tractor will only move when I put it in 1st or 2nd gear and at a high RPM. The PTO will hardly spin at all either.

Does this sound like the clutch needs to be replaced? Do I need to go ahead and haul it to a tractor mechanic, or is there anything else I might could check? From what I gather, a clutch replacement could be an expensive chore...any advice/information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!

Brad

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Are you looseing engine power like a drop in RPM's or does the tractor seem sluggish when you put it in gear? When you changed the fuel filter did you remember to bleed the air out of the fuel line before you cranked it back up? The clutch could be the issue but give us a bit better description of your power loss and we will see what we can come up with.

 

[bradjam]

Hi Eric, thanks for a quick response.

I'm not sure if the RPMs were dropping or not...

I'll try to describe the problem more in detail though. I mostly use the tractor for moving dirt around with the front end loader and for brush cutting/mowing.

When tractor was operating properly, I could drive it up to a dirt pile, dig in, and the wheels would spin ferociously. When the problem started, I would just go into a pile and the tractor would idle and the wheels wouldn't spin...it wouldn't die and I don't think the RPMs were going down. After the problem, when I started to mow, the tractor didn't want to go up any inclines nor did the PTO want to cut heavy grass. Everything is just....weak.

I'm pretty sure we bled the air out of the fuel lines...it's my understanding that the tractor will not even crank if there is air in the lines...true?

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Yeah the tractor will run if it gets air in the fuel lines. It wont like it but the tractor will spit and sputter and act crazy until the air is out of the line. Really sounds like your having an RPM issue and the tractor is not running at its peak performance.

A clutch going bad can be a tricky thing to figure out at times. Sometimes it will go, other times it wont budge an inch. Sometimes you can get the tractor into a few gears or none at all. And yeah I've seen it where the tractor will go threw all the gears and not work the PTO.

So far we know your running and it moves just not at 100% peak performance.

 

[bradjam]

Don't think it's air in the lines then...engine sounds/runs just fine.

What really makes me think it is a clutch problem is that fact that when my father in law adjusted the screw on the clutch rod (not sure exactly what it's called), that fixed the problem, albeit temporarily. He told me it really couldn't be adjusted further and the next step would probably mean a new clutch.

Next time I'm out, I will watch the RPMs and see what they are doing.

 

[Bulldog]

What kind of free travel (inches) do you have in the clutch pedal?

What position is the clutch pedal (up high, down low) in when it tries to ingage?

 

[bradjam]

Tractor model is a 1996 L-2900...not a L-2450. Must've been too late last night when I posted

Anyways, there's not much free travel in the clutch pedal now...maybe 4 inches?

It was more before we adjusted the screw.

The clutch pedal is up position when it tries to engage.

 

[Bulldog]

I may be wrong but that sounds like way to much free travel.
I looked at the specs for my M 9000 and my L 3000 just to compair what the difference between the two of them should be. 1.4 to 1.8 inch on the M and 0.8 to 1.2 inch on my L. I would think yours should be some where in this range also. 4 inches is way to much travel.

If your 2450 has a dual clutch like my L 3000 has then the side cover must be removed after the free travel is adjusted and set the inner part of the clutch as well.

When I start to feel the clutch trying to engage it is more toward the bottom side of the pedal instead of the upper like your seems to be.

Before you adjusted the clutch where was it trying to engage at? I'm just wandering if the engagment point changed much after the adjustment.

About how many hrs do you have on your tractor?

When you are using your loader do you run it in high range?
I know it takes a lot longer to switch to low range to dig and then to high for travel but it's very hard on the clutch trying to dig in high range.

Not trying to make you mad but do you have a habit of leaving your foot rested on the clutch pedal while you are working?
Some do this and don't even realize they are doing it. I have had a very hard time breaking my wife from this habit and I know that my clutch life has been shortened from her doing this.

I only ask these questions to see if there is a obvious reason that your clutch may be worn out.

 

[Bulldog]

Hi Bradjam,

I went back and looked thru all the L series information I have and from the 2250 thru the 4150 all seem to have a 0.8-1.2 inch of clutch pedal free travel. I hope this helps.