L-2052-1 Gearbox issue

[boozaro]

Greetings again -

So we finally got some snow and after about 3 hours of moving snow I took a break. When I returned and started the Kubota up, the auger wasn’t turning.

The driveline going into the gearbox is turning. The shaft coming out and going to the chain gear is not.

My plan is to take the gearbox apart and see if I can find anything broken, but I wanted to check with the experts first and make sure there wasn’t some common, easy culprot, like a sheer bolt type of thing. Wishing thinking!

Thanks again.

Scott

 

[D2Cat]

Scott, it sounds like the unit froze while you took the break. Then you came out and when you powered the blower up the sheer pin did it's job.

I do not have a snow blower, much less your model, but before you begin to take a gearbox apart find out where your sheer pins are and make sure there in one piece.

 

[boozaro]

UPDATE:

So I checked all the shear pins are all intact. Also, interesting to note - when I manually turn the auger blades or the propeller blades, the chain turns, the shaft going to the gearbox turns and coming out of the gearbox, the drive shaft turns.

If something were broken or damaged in the line, I would think it would do this. However, if I rotate the drive shaft (starting from what would be the normal progression) the shaft coming out of the gearbox does not spin - and consequently everything after that.

Any help would be greatly appreciated because I am kind of at a loss after this.


Thanks again.

Scott

 

[200mph]

Sounds a bit weird that it rotates in one direction and not the other, but I'm guessing this is due to some interference between the parts that failed. If loaded I'm guessing it would slip in the opposite direction also.

Sorry I don't have any good ideas. If what you articulated above is accurate I'd make certain the bolt holding the front PTO to the gear reduction is securely attached. Perhaps take it off and verify the keyway, bolt, etc. is OK.

The gear reduction looks like a very simple design, but there are some keyways that could have sheared.

Not certain if you referenced the prints from Kubota or Messick's, but here is the link if not.

http://messicks.com/ku/85222

Good luck and please post what you find... Pictures always help.

 

[Dave_eng]

UPDATE:

So I checked all the shear pins are all intact. Also, interesting to note - when I manually turn the auger blades or the propeller blades, the chain turns, the shaft going to the gearbox turns and coming out of the gearbox, the drive shaft turns.

If something were broken or damaged in the line, I would think it would do this. However, if I rotate the drive shaft (starting from what would be the normal progression) the shaft coming out of the gearbox does not spin - and consequently everything after that.

Any help would be greatly appreciated because I am kind of at a loss after this.


Thanks again.

Scott

I would be looking for a sheared key on the input to the gearbox.

Or inside the gearbox

Dave

 

[boozaro]

Dave- You sir are a rockstar. I kind of narrowed it down to the gear box, and started taking it all apart this evening. I've got the gear box of, as well as all the bolts. Is there a trick to cracking it open?

Also, is SAE90 the oil I want to put back in the gear box and the reduction box? Side note- when I opened the reduction box and drained the gear box, I noticed the oil was like chocolate milk. I'm guessing water got in there? Is that a major problem?

Last question, I noticed the previous owner used a silicone sealer (like a gasket) on the edges of both boxes. Is this normal and required?

Thank you again. I am hoping to crack the gear box tomorrow, and man I hope you're right!! That part will be a lot less expensive then some of the other ones.

Thank you again. Merry Christmas!

Scott

 

[Dave_eng]

Dave- You sir are a rockstar. I kind of narrowed it down to the gear box, and started taking it all apart this evening. I've got the gear box of, as well as all the bolts. Is there a trick to cracking it open?

Also, is SAE90 the oil I want to put back in the gear box and the reduction box? Side note- when I opened the reduction box and drained the gear box, I noticed the oil was like chocolate milk. I'm guessing water got in there? Is that a major problem?

Last question, I noticed the previous owner used a silicone sealer (like a gasket) on the edges of both boxes. Is this normal and required?

Thank you again. I am hoping to crack the gear box tomorrow, and man I hope you're right!! That part will be a lot less expensive then some of the other ones.

Thank you again. Merry Christmas!

Scott

Scott

I sometimes get lucky in my old age

I don't know your box in particular but on some there is a couple of threaded holes that are in only one half of the box castings.

Their purpose is to allow you to thread bolts into these holes to push the box halves apart. Look carefully from both the top and bottom sides after thoroughly cleaning the outside as they could be full of crud and not visible.
Not every box has this feature.

Be very careful to photograph and note the shims which may be present to align the internal gears. A couple in the wrong place and you will have a very noisy gear box.

The silicone gasket maker is a great product. However, you need to use the real stuff like the one by Permatex and religiously follow the instructions. Brake clean to get the surfaces grease free, Then, after applying the sealant, you let it sit with the parts lightly torqued before a final tightening. Fools use household silicone caulking thinking they are all the same.

Look for an oil which has a winter viscosity rating like 75W-90, and says specifically "gear oil," and better yet Extreme pressure as well.

For the amount you need, a small bottle of synthetic is a good investment.

To split the gear box, try and avoid jamming a screwdriver in the crack between the two halves as this will scratch up the mating surfaces. Use a rubber hammer or block of wood and hit upwards on the shaft that runs right through the gear box.

The oil should be changed every year. Likely there is a small vent hole which, as the box cools down after use, can suck in a small amount of moisture.

Good luck and looking forward on your update. Hopefully it will be like a Christmas present.


Dave

 

[boozaro]

I would be looking for a sheared key on the input to the gearbox.

Or inside the gearbox

Dave

Hi Dave-

I hope you had a Merry Christmas. Well, I am back into the heart of darkness. I've got the gearbox and reduction box both removed and cracked open. The diagrams you provided are excellent, but they don't really show where those keys are. How would I know if they are broken?

One side note - I attempted to operate the blower once more before I took it apart and shockingly, it worked. But then after a few minutes of snow, it went back to the main driveshaft spinning as it entered the reduction box and then nothing turning out of the gearbox. So the problem is intermittent - which could point to those keys you mentioned as the suspected culprit.

I can take photos of the guts of the two boxes if that would help. I am just at a lose. Probably out of my ability. But the retired fireman in me will not admit defeat. I'm committed!

Thanks again for any help you can provide!

Scott

 

[Dave_eng]

Hi Dave-

I hope you had a Merry Christmas. Well, I am back into the heart of darkness. I've got the gearbox and reduction box both removed and cracked open. The diagrams you provided are excellent, but they don't really show where those keys are. How would I know if they are broken?

One side note - I attempted to operate the blower once more before I took it apart and shockingly, it worked. But then after a few minutes of snow, it went back to the main driveshaft spinning as it entered the reduction box and then nothing turning out of the gearbox. So the problem is intermittent - which could point to those keys you mentioned as the suspected culprit.

I can take photos of the guts of the two boxes if that would help. I am just at a lose. Probably out of my ability. But the retired fireman in me will not admit defeat. I'm committed!

Thanks again for any help you can provide!

Scott

Scott

When there is a gear with a shaft running through the middle of the gear, there is usually a key to lock the gear to the shaft. There are exceptions such as a splined shaft and internal hole in gear with matching splines.

Since the parts diagrams show keys, they will be there but to see them the gear will need to be slid along the shaft and in doing so will expose a key.

Get some brake clean so you can get the gear and shaft very clean and then photograph. Be very careful to note the location of any shims or washer so they go back in the same location.

If I am correct and the key or keys are sheared, there will be some resistance to the gear sliding on its shaft.

Photos will get more direct advice.

Dave

 

[boozaro]

Scott

When there is a gear with a shaft running through the middle of the gear, there is usually a key to lock the gear to the shaft. There are exceptions such as a splined shaft and internal hole in gear with matching splines.

Since the parts diagrams show keys, they will be there but to see them the gear will need to be slid along the shaft and in doing so will expose a key.

Get some brake clean so you can get the gear and shaft very clean and then photograph. Be very careful to note the location of any shims or washer so they go back in the same location.

If I am correct and the key or keys are sheared, there will be some resistance to the gear sliding on its shaft.

Photos will get more direct advice.

Dave

You were right on, Dave. It was two of the keys. One had a whole second ground in half. I got it all back together and put her to work today. The Great Pumpkin lives! Thanks again for your help! And the diagrams. They made getting parts a breeze at the local shop.

Thank you again! Have a great weekend.

God Bless!

Scott

 

[Dave_eng]

Scott
It is great when the problem turns out to be minor. You get a great sense of relief knowing you have to spend a few dollars and not hundreds.

Now you need to be looking what you have for shear bolt(s) and put in the lowest grade you can get.

Dave