L-175 Front Loader Hydraulics

[buffumjr]

I am thinking of grafting a front loader to my L-175. What does the "Delivery Pipe Flange Cover" do? Would that be a good place to tap into the pressure line? I have searched the manuals and can find no reference to this part.

I have the mount welded up, now to go to a coupla auctions to find a loader the right size.

I live on a dirt road. The county will maintain it once every election year. The rest of the time, we're on our own. I'm the only one who does this. That's why I bought the L-175.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You would be much better off using an add on hydraulic pump as the stock pump is very very small and will run a loader very very very slow.
You will also need a added reservoir for fluid.

 

[buffumjr]

The reservoir is HUGE. The transaxle is the reservoir, and holds almost 6 gallons. Any add-on MUST be smaller than that. As to the pump, I'll assume that cover is where to tap in, unless someone tells me otherwise. I'll machine a steel spacer to go between the cover and the base, precision grind it FLAT, and tap into it in the appropriate place.

The return line can be a drill and tap for a 3/8 NPT anywhere in the transaxle above the fluid level.

If I find the installed pump is too wimpy, I can kludge something and re plumb.

So.. What IS the function of that cover?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The cover is a loop, you would need to machine a new cover to tap into that feed and power beyond.

Pick you drill and tap location carefully, get it wrong and you'll either interfere with the internals or crack the case, most just add a return fitting to the fill port.

Adding a loader to a 2wd non power steering tractor is really going to make it work hard and work your arms even harder.

You also need to add a full subframe all the way to the back of the tractor or you will break it in half.

 

[buffumjr]

Adding a full subframe. All of the plans and videos fail to mention that. What kind of material would I be best to use? Angle? Square tube? What thickness? And a nightmare if I wanted to do anything to the clutch.

I'm not going to be using it as a dozer. My grader attachment will leave a line of loose material, and the loader bucket will be to scrape that up to deposit it in the larger holes.

I'd use a 3 pt bucket, but the raise/lower arrangement is terribly difficult to manage with any accuracy.

 

[bucktail]

Darren Todd did a thread on making a subframe for a massey Ferguson loader on his L1501. That should give you some ideas if you can find it. I don't think your axle housing is square like his was but there are probably threaded holes on the bottom of the transaxle that you can use.

 

[buffumjr]

Searched but did not find.

Ah,well, There are two bracing possibilities that do not involve the rear axle. One is two 14mm bolt holes on each side of the bell housing, and to run a brace across the front of the frame, and further brace to that. At the stealership, the equivalent small Kubotas have that arrangement. I have 6 12mm bolt holes on the bottom of the engine and transaxle. I have fabricated a 3/8 plate for that, and run a 3x3x3/8 tube transverse, with 3/8 triangular braces to the plate. LOVE MY MILLER 210!!!

I'll be going to a machinery auction in Ocala looking for end loader assemblies.

I have a 3x3x1/4 loop bolted to the rear axle that runs up over my head. It will be the rear mount of the canopy and abuncha lights. The canopy has to wait for the end loader mount for the front mounts.

Whatever I do, I have to be alert to the idea of splitting the tractor in future. Clutches don't last forever.

No, I don't plan to work this in a granite quarry Just dirt. No rocks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Adding a full subframe. All of the plans and videos fail to mention that. What kind of material would I be best to use? Angle? Square tube? What thickness? And a nightmare if I wanted to do anything to the clutch.

I'm not going to be using it as a dozer. My grader attachment will leave a line of loose material, and the loader bucket will be to scrape that up to deposit it in the larger holes.

I'd use a 3 pt bucket, but the raise/lower arrangement is terribly difficult to manage with any accuracy.

Why don't you save yourself a ton of Money and get a land plane, way better for fixing roads than a scraper and a bucket.

Don't compare new tractors with old, they are reinforced completely differently.
You need axle bars!
1 1/2" tall, 3/8" thick min to the rear.
or heavy wall square tube.
Without them all the stress is on the bellhousing and it will break, seen many of them.

Here is Daren Todd build:

Sub frame build for a loader

Picked up a woods DuAl 145 loader for my L1501. Loader was off from a Massey 1010 tractor. So the original sub frame was pretty much useless except for some parts. Started with a couple pieces of anflgle iron on the sides of the tractor for a pattern. Plus to get an idea where I needed to...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[In Utopia]

Don't know if this is any help to you, but when I bought my L-175 it had a loader on it. Not knowing any better I started working it like a rented mule. What ended up happening was without the proper support bolts started stripping and the front end started separating. Pulled the motor, had the stripped holes fixed, put that back together and proceed to fabricate the "proper" bracing. How it made it all those years without falling apart is beyond me.
Pic 1 shows before fix.
Pic 2 is the start of bracing.
Pic 3 shows bracing to rear.
Wish I had more detail on the rear attachment.

 

[Greg8352]

My L²4⁵Dt uses a hydraulic pump mounted on front crank. Do it right.

 

[In Utopia]

My L²4⁵Dt uses a hydraulic pump mounted on front crank. Do it right.

Not quite sure about do it right, but on mine pressure is derived from the block that is circled.
I have no idea if this is OEM or not, but if not it sure looks like it, but then again the kit I put on my 640 Ford for rear hydraulics looks factory...........who knows.

 

[shootem604]

The limitation is the factory pump. On my L245DT the Kubota (by ARPS) loader is connected to that plate and it is slow. I am considering putting a pump on the front shaft and using the tractor reservoir to get more flow.