KX 121 no start

[Nbonasoro]

I have a kx121 mini,it was used for a few hours in the morning then sat for an hour then after when I put the key to on position all lights flash and relays keep clicking. When turned to start you hear a loud buzzing noise. The battery is 12.7v starter bench tested good, all fuses are good. Does anyone know what would cause something like this? The fact the dash is blinking is throwing me off.

 

[Daren Todd]

Sounds like a bad ground or loose connection, have you checked you battery cables?

 

[Nbonasoro]

Sounds like a bad ground or loose connection, have you checked you battery cables?

Yes, even ohmed them out.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Pull the battery and take it to an auto parts store and have them load test it.
If that tests out good, then look for a bad ground wire connection, it's going to be a common connection with several wires on it.

 

[Nbonasoro]

Pull the battery and take it to an auto parts store and have them load test it.
If that tests out good, then look for a bad ground wire connection, it's going to be a common connection with several wires on it.

But would the bad ground alone cause the dash to be flashing?

 

[Daren Todd]

But would the bad ground alone cause the dash to be flashing?

It could. There are grounds going to your relays, and if one of them isn't grounded correctly it can cause them to fluctuate between open and closed positions. Bad power connection to the relays can cause the same thing. Some other things that can cause this are corrosion, loose or broken spade, or melted wiring. And something as simple a water in a pin connector or relay. I've had all of those make control panels on equipment go bonkers

 

[Nbonasoro]

It could. There are grounds going to your relays, and if one of them isn't grounded correctly it can cause them to fluctuate between open and closed positions. Bad power connection to the relays can cause the same thing. Some other things that can cause this are corrosion, loose or broken spade, or melted wiring. And something as simple a water in a pin connector or relay. I've had all of those make control panels on equipment go bonkers

Thanks for the info! Ill have to check it out!

 

[Daren Todd]

Another thing to look into and wouldn't hurt to talk to your local kubota dealer is it may be a safety switch. Talking to one of the mechanics might point you in the right direction faster. Especially if they have seen that problem with your machine before. If your local dealer doesn't handle the construction equipment, i would call the one in your area that does

 

[Nbonasoro]

Another thing to look into and wouldn't hurt to talk to your local kubota dealer is it may be a safety switch. Talking to one of the mechanics might point you in the right direction faster. Especially if they have seen that problem with your machine before. If your local dealer doesn't handle the construction equipment, i would call the one in your area that does

That was the first thing I've done, I called a few around and no one has any idea. With the machine being only a year old it's still under warranty but I am responsible to get it there, we'll I can't drive it on a trailer and have nothing to lift it with nor do they do road service which leaves me to figure it on my own

 

[Stubbyie]

Before hauling to a dealer I'd concentrate on proving the battery is good. Or not. The description you offer of 'buzzing' makes me think the battery just isn't furnishing sufficient power output.

Have you got a larger charger with an engine start setting? Use it.

If you try jumping from another vehicle first disconnect at least one side of the tractor battery and take it out of the circuit. Or test by robbing a proven known good battery out of another vehicle.

Check also your negative battery cable chassis ground. And both terminals for corrosion.

Regarding hauling to dealer, you might be able to use a come-along to winch it onto your trailer. Or maybe a roll-back wrecker would do it for cash off the books since a "vehicle" isn't involved (some states have silly laws written by and implemented for the benefit of the vehicle recovery community of businesses).

Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

On most tractors you could just disconnect the fuel shut off solenoid and jump the starter and it would run, but on a mini excavator I'm thinking the controls are also electrically controlled and that would make it really hard to move.
#1 Have you load tested the battery? Even showing 12 V it can have a broken plate and show 0 amps.
#2 Put a volt meter on the + battery connections on the starter and on the - to ground, turn on the key does the voltage go up and down?
#3 Get to the connections on the main switch and do the same test as before.

 

[Nbonasoro]

Before hauling to a dealer I'd concentrate on proving the battery is good. Or not. The description you offer of 'buzzing' makes me think the battery just isn't furnishing sufficient power output.

Have you got a larger charger with an engine start setting? Use it.

If you try jumping from another vehicle first disconnect at least one side of the tractor battery and take it out of the circuit. Or test by robbing a proven known good battery out of another vehicle.

Check also your negative battery cable chassis ground. And both terminals for corrosion.

Regarding hauling to dealer, you might be able to use a come-along to winch it onto your trailer. Or maybe a roll-back wrecker would do it for cash off the books since a "vehicle" isn't involved (some states have silly laws written by and implemented for the benefit of the vehicle recovery community of businesses).

Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.

We'll the battery load tested good
I have power up to the starter and at the starter relay. If I des connect what seems to be the glow plug relay the dash works as normal but still won't start. All you get is one click out of the starter selonoid

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Jump from the large terminal on the starter t the small terminal, if it just clicks and won't spin you've go a bad starter or a bad cable or cable connection.

 

[Stubbyie]

The 'one click' you mention regarding the starter solenoid sounds like what I had happen a few weeks ago on a Ford stationary industrial engine.

Found the bearings and shaft inside the starter were bone dry--it would engage 'click' (more like a 'thunk') but would not throw forward the bendix drive spur gear to engage the flywheel. And after a few tries the battery was pulled way down--check that too.

Consider disassembling the starter, lubing, and then trying again.

Please post back your experiences and problem resolution so we may all learn.

 

[Nbonasoro]

The 'one click' you mention regarding the starter solenoid sounds like what I had happen a few weeks ago on a Ford stationary industrial engine.

Found the bearings and shaft inside the starter were bone dry--it would engage 'click' (more like a 'thunk') but would not throw forward the bendix drive spur gear to engage the flywheel. And after a few tries the battery was pulled way down--check that too.

Consider disassembling the starter, lubing, and then trying again.

Please post back your experiences and problem resolution so we may all learn.

We'll I jumped the starter and you can feel it shoot out but not turn the motor over, I have 12.7 at the starter with good connections and a good ground. I pulled the injectors to see if it was just hydro locked and still nothing. Also pulled the hydro pump off to rule that out and it made no diffrence. Now when I bench tested the starter it worked perfect. I did a voltage drop with the starter in the machine and it only dropped .1volt. Could the starter just be that worn after a year? Unfortunatly I can't get to the crank to try and turn the motor over by hand to rule that out. Any suggestions?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The solenoid is not powering the armature or it's a bad armature.
if you pull the starter you can turn the flywheel with a pry bar or big screw driver just to make sure the motors not locked up.
but even locked up the volts would have dropped and cables and starter would have gotten really hot really quick!
Then I would take the starter apart and look for issues in it.

 

[Nbonasoro]

The solenoid is not powering the armature or it's a bad armature.
if you pull the starter you can turn the flywheel with a pry bar or big screw driver just to make sure the motors not locked up.
but even locked up the volts would have dropped and cables and starter would have gotten really hot really quick!
Then I would take the starter apart and look for issues in it.

What would make it bench test good? The fact there is no load on the starter?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

What would make it bench test good? The fact there is no load on the starter?

Yep it has been know to happen. Some of the better automotive stores can load test them, or find a local rebuilder and see what they have to say.
I personally would take it apart, I've seen them eat a set of brushes and not work right, and you should be able to get the brush set for fairly cheap if that's what it needs.