Kubota T1880 Won't Drive

[Caden]

Your list is pretty good, I have shortened or changed a few items below:

1) Water wash is optional, not totally necessary, up to you.

2) You can skip the chemical solvent step and combine rust and paint removal to one operation by using the wire brush wheel. It doesn't have to be meticulously clean. Just pretty clean.

3) Close gap w/ hammer or tool of choice. When you do this make sure the upright part that attaches to the tractor stays straight up and down (don't knock it over when trying to close the gap, essentially)

4) Have it welded. Any decent welder ought to have the courtesy to take a minute with a grinder to clean up his work but anyhow ascetics are not the goal here.

5) Prime/ paint after metal cools down.

 

[Pat_USA]

Your list is pretty good, I have shortened or changed a few items below:

1) Water wash is optional, not totally necessary, up to you.

2) You can skip the chemical solvent step and combine rust and paint removal to one operation by using the wire brush wheel. It doesn't have to be meticulously clean. Just pretty clean.

3) Close gap w/ hammer or tool of choice. When you do this make sure the upright part that attaches to the tractor stays straight up and down (don't knock it over when trying to close the gap, essentially)

4) Have it welded. Any decent welder ought to have the courtesy to take a minute with a grinder to clean up his work but anyhow ascetics are not the goal here.

5) Prime/ paint after metal cools down.

Thank you.
Some paint under the deck along the edge has already started peeling. I attached a photo of "Jasco Prep & Primer for Rusted & New Metal". I also have Muriatic Acid at home and might have other rust removers, but I need to check since I’ve never really used them.

The Knot Wire Cup Brushes were all got stolen, possibly 9 brushes in total, I just showed the pic of the empty box. The one I bought looks like the third picture but in red color & it's pretty good quality and it works better than the other wires that you showed in the previous picture. I had the same one that you have but it was a mixed lot of a few kinds, and I might have had at least 45 of them (15x3 kinds), they are all got stolen too. I used one cup brush, it might be gone too. I might end up using a steel wire brush and an electric sander.

I had a fake virus pop-up, tried to fix it but failed, so I used Free Total AV to clean it. They tried to get me to purchase it for $29, then offered $19 last night. However, it caused other issues with my laptop, and now I can’t log into my Amazon account, I have to wait for 24 hrs. before I try to log in again. It would make it easier to find my purchase records on their website.

 

[Caden]

The wire brushes in your third picture are for a grinder. They work significantly better than the drill style but are significantly more dangerous to use which is why I recommended the drill brush. They like to bite in and cause a kickback of the grinder or rip it out of your hands completely.

If you use them be careful, wear leather gloves that protect your arms too, and if you have long hair keep it pulled back. Also watch out for loose clothing.

 

[Caden]

I would avoid muriatic acid or rust remover since they need to be neutralized after using with baking soda or something, so it adds a step. A little left over rust from after a wire wheel isn't going to hurt the weld too much.

 

[Pat_USA]

I would avoid muriatic acid or rust remover since they need to be neutralized after using with baking soda or something, so it adds a step. A little left over rust from after a wire wheel isn't going to hurt the weld too much.

I don't have any wire brush, all got stolen.
#3149 - mainly I cleaned with scrap foil that I gonna throw it away & old toothbrush to brushed off the dust
#3152 - I used a Scotch Brite Copper coated scrubbing pad to sand it. Does it make any difference from pic 3149
#3150 & 3151 - I scraped the paint off & use scrap foil to clean some rust & dust of with old toothbrush
#3153 & 3154 - I used a Scotch Brite pad, it's hard because of limited space.
- it will be hard to weld, have to remove the belt. It's hard to pound the metal down.
I think the option is while one person weld in the back, another person pushed it down which will narrow some gap.

Should I use the Cleaner & Degreaser at this point? I just want to clean the area that needs to be weld. After it's done, I can clean then use "Prep & primer over the bare metal area than spray paint 2 coats.

I also just realized the thieves stole my 2 Hitachi circular saw. I only have miter saw & table saw. Is it harder or easier to use table saw to cut the pointy end of the wood.
After I used Total AV, now I have a problem with Microsoft Edge browser & Google Chrome. I normally use one email on each browser & a specific websites on each browsers. Now I can use only Firefox & Opera.

Do I need any more prep? I might can grab the rust remover next time when I'm out & remove some rusts as you recommend. Or the guy might have some wire brush, I can't buy anything because it might get stolen again. Any suggestions if I need more prep?

 

[Caden]

I mean, it's better, not great... but I would just buy one single wire brush wheel to vastly improve this process both in speed and effectiveness.

It is easier to cut angles on a mitre saw.

 

[Pat_USA]

I mean, it's better, not great... but I would just buy one single wire brush wheel to vastly improve this process both in speed and effectiveness.

It is easier to cut angles on a mitre saw.

It's this pointy angle on the bottom that I will hammer it down into the ground so you can't cut it with miter saw, either circular saw or table saw.

 

[hagrid]

Remove the belt.

And dont spray/apply any chemicals until the weldor is done.

 

[Caden]

You can cut that with a mitre if the tail end of the board extend towards you, rather than perpendicular to you.

Circular saw is better but I thought you didn't have one.

 

[Pat_USA]

You can cut that with a mitre if the tail end of the board extend towards you, rather than perpendicular to you.

Circular saw is better but I thought you didn't have one.

I know , I think it just got stolen in the last 6 months.
If I can buy a used cheap one, a good one with get stolen.
I know you want scrape it down to the metal & metal shine.
Since it was 6:30 pm & it got a little dark, I can't do that much so I went under the truck.
Took some photos & clean, just dry clean with the rag for now since I never had time to do it yet.
With the light, it helped to work in the dark, otherwise I still never do it.

Please

Maybe I can use angle grinder with cheap blades if I had some because the thieves stole a whole bunch of it (10 pk x10 ea. so it could be more than 100 cheap blades). They stole a good one too with metal for stone, masonry. I might can use grinder to grind the surface, I have doctor appt in the am & might run some errands. I might be home late

I just remembered & just checked it, I have metal grinding wheel & I can try the paint removal first to clean up that area. I bought it within 6 months ago.

 

[Pat_USA]

I intended to click download but click the wrong button to send it.

Can you tell me where is the leak coming from, pic 3160?
Is it by harmonica?

How about 3162? I already wiped the oil twice but still coming back.
Should I tried the grinding wheel on the last picture?

The one that they stole was GMC 10 pk in each case, I bought it maybe 20 yrs ago never had a chance to use it. Until I need it to realize it's gone.

 

[Caden]

Hmmm.... I can't really tell what I'm looking at in pic 3162. I need some more pics of the 3160 area to tell anything.

I think that grinding wheel on the right that says paint removal looks like a good thing to try.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Take the deck to a welding shop. They have the tools and experience to get this done right. They do this kind of work all the time. If the first shop can't do it, they can refer you to one that can.

 

[Pat_USA]

For 3162 - on the L side is oil filter, (Blue can), on the R side, the white line connects to quick connect. The white line has a flex plastic cover.
For 3160 - I have to check during the day when I have time, maybe F.

 

[Pat_USA]

I have battery circular saw but I think electric is better, especially on quantity work.
My question is .... what is the starting point #1 (top at angle) or #2 (from center of the flat cut?

I'd like the length of the pointy cut is around 16" deep.

 

[Caden]

 

[Pat_USA]

View attachment 180841

Great drawing & explainations.

 

[Pat_USA]

These are just a small fraction of what got stolen.

 

[Pat_USA]

I can't find the adjustable tool that I used to remove & change the blade on the angle grinder, which I just used less than a yr ago; it was brand new, & I used it for the first time a year ago. I'm sure it got stolen again because I know where I put it, but the smaller one is not missing. (I guess for 4" angle grinder, which they already stole my 4" electric Makita angle grinder & Dewalt grinder.)
Is there an option to remove it without that removal tool?
or
Does anyone have any tricks or tips for removing it so I can change the blade to a metal grinding wheel?

 

[Caden]

You can use a pair of channel lock style pliers.