Kubota starting but not staying running

[PoTreeBoy]

I'll have to check tonight.



I didn't follow all of that, but I think I got the gist. I'm testing with the voltmeter on the bracket of the solenoid which is attached to the block, which is where the ground wire for the solenoid is attached.



I should bench test both solenoids, and I think I've done that, but it's been so long with so much testing I can't remember.

It's PULL to run, so if I hold it in that position it runs fine.

This is the tricky part. Both solenoids (old and new) cut off when they still have 12 volts to them.

So what I understand from you guys is that the black wire is ground, red wire is "hold" and white is "pull." So the white only gets 12 volts for a very short time at startup. Red seems to stay hot when the motor is running. I assuming this red wire is what keeps the solenoid open while running? I've attached a photo so you can see what we're talking about.

I'm not real happy with your connection on the red wire or the ground. Just an instant loss of contact and that solenoid can drop out.

Also, does that linkage let the solenoid absolutely, completely retract when energized?

 

[Henro]

I didn't follow all of that, but I think I got the gist. I'm testing with the voltmeter on the bracket of the solenoid which is attached to the block, which is where the ground wire for the solenoid is attached.

I looked back and see you have a three-wire solenoid.

Chances are that this means you have two coils in the solenoid, likely a start and run coil, and that the third wire is a return path back to the battery.

If so, you need to make your voltage measurement with respect to the third wire, NOT the engine block or frame, since you could have a broken wire in the return path from the solenoid, that makes contact at the broken ends sometimes, and at other times does not make contact and becomes an open. If so, current would would stop flowing through the solenoid run coil when the break opens, and the engine would shut down when this happened. EDIT: And you would still measure 12 volts on the wire feeding the solenoid, since your reference point was the engine block, and not the return wire.

I am assuming that a three wire solenoid has a start and run coil. I do not know for certain in your case. But it is a reasonable assumption.

I would probably just determine if there is a third wire returning current to the battery, and add a parallel wire for test purposes. If a parallel wire cured the problem, you would know the issue is in the return wire from the solenoid to the battery, via whatever route that wire may physically run.

 

[ehenry]

Is there any type of controller and transfer switch involved? Similar to a standby system?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Just looking at the one picture that you posted there is a controller running that shut down solenoid.
Looking at the bottom of the picture I see a Oil Level/ pressure switch that is the control type not the gauge only type of switch.
I'll bet there is one on the head doing the water side of things.
Power the solenoid via a separate battery connection isolated from the existing circuits and I'll bet it will run fine, don't let it run too long because you either have an oil or water issue or an oil or water sending unit issue, or even possibly a controller issue.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

I should bench test both solenoids, and I think I've done that, but it's been so long with so much testing I can't remember.

Been there, done that.

On electrical problems especially, but with any long, complicated problem, you can lose track of what you did and what results you got from this test or that. We get tired and frustrated and the details just go flying out of our brains. This leaves us confused and has us doing the same tests over and over.

I've learned to START with a notepad handy, and make myself stop and write down what I'm doing.

It really helps.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

It'd be nice to know which V2203 model you have. I downloaded one version, and there's NO stop solenoid in the wiring diagram.
It's a pretty good assumption that solenoid does have a 'start' and a 'run' coil. Start allows full power, to pull the lever. Once in position, the coil needs less power, hence the 'run' coil. You should post the solenoid part number to find the specs.
Assuming red is the power, and white is the run...then whatever 'black box' that the white wire is connected to, needs to be investigated. More picture would help, full engine version as well, and the generator model number.
It is probable the 'black box' aka 'controller' would look at oil pressure, water temperature, fanbelt loss, maybe genny output and if a fault exists, then shut down the engine as a safety feature.