Kubota M9540HDC operation

[hugo7432]

Hi all

I have just taken delivery of my brand new Kubota M9540HDC (that is the 6 speed model with creep, low and high and a hydraulic shuttle but it is the non dual speed model) with an X36 loader and a Trimax Warlord flail. I am very happy with the tractor as it is a big upgrade over my old 2006 John Deere 2520 (which I'm still keeping though; it's a very good machine as well)!

I have a few questions for those who have experience with this model. Feel free to use technical language, I know a lot about tractors and mechanics.

1. Can I change the range (from creep to low to high) when moving, if I push the clutch in? Or do I have to come to a complete stop?

2. I've noticed that the range selector is very difficult to shift (when at a standstill with the clutch in, shuttle in neutral and gear shifter in neutral). Note I have the 3 different ranges of creep, low and high. I would describe the feel of the lever as sticky. Like it doesn't want to shift between the ranges. Does everyone have this issue or is it just me? Perhaps, is this something that wears in after a few hours of use? If I lift up the clutch and put it back down, I can eventually get it into the range I want. I haven't forced the gears at all nor will I ever do because I know this is bad for the gearbox. Nevertheless, what can I do to improve the shifting of the ranges?

3. The tractor salesman told me that I have to push the foot clutch in before engaging the PTO (mine is the non dual speed so I have a lever for the PTO, not a twist nob). Do I really need to do this? It doesn't say anything in the manual about doing so; it just says to engage the lever slowly at low engine rpm (which I have been doing in all 3 of my hours of use).

4. I know that on manual transmission tractors, you generally don't change gear while moving unless you absolutely have to. However, I note that the transmission that's on my model is a synchro gearbox for all 6 gears. So can I change gear while moving or would you advise against it? I have tried doing so at slow speed (low range) from 1st to 2nd gear and it feels ok; not as smooth as in a manual car but it is doable. Also, do I need to revmatch on downshifts or not? Cause it's kind of difficult when you have a hand throttle and you're not using the foot pedal.

I know that's a lot of questions but any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Hugo.

 

[bernhardine]

1. - the range-group is not synchronized. So stop to change.

2. - It is difficult at the beginning. It'll get better, but it needs up to 400 hours. Use the range shifter as often as you can. Playing a little bit with the foot clutch while trying to change the range helps a lot.

3. - foot clutch and PTO clutch are completely independent. So engage the PTO just only with the lever. You can do while driving

4. - the 6-gear box is completely synchonized. You can change all gears while moving. Up and down.
As long as the gearoil is cold, do it slowly because the hydraulic clutch then needs a little time to open (and close).

 

[SidecarFlip]

Hi all

I have just taken delivery of my brand new Kubota M9540HDC (that is the 6 speed model with creep, low and high and a hydraulic shuttle but it is the non dual speed model) with an X36 loader and a Trimax Warlord flail. I am very happy with the tractor as it is a big upgrade over my old 2006 John Deere 2520 (which I'm still keeping though; it's a very good machine as well)!

I have a few questions for those who have experience with this model. Feel free to use technical language, I know a lot about tractors and mechanics.

1. Can I change the range (from creep to low to high) when moving, if I push the clutch in? Or do I have to come to a complete stop?

NO

2. I've noticed that the range selector is very difficult to shift (when at a standstill with the clutch in, shuttle in neutral and gear shifter in neutral). Note I have the 3 different ranges of creep, low and high. I would describe the feel of the lever as sticky. Like it doesn't want to shift between the ranges. Does everyone have this issue or is it just me? Perhaps, is this something that wears in after a few hours of use? If I lift up the clutch and put it back down, I can eventually get it into the range I want. I haven't forced the gears at all nor will I ever do because I know this is bad for the gearbox. Nevertheless, what can I do to improve the shifting of the ranges?

You need a slight forward motion when you range shift.

3. The tractor salesman told me that I have to push the foot clutch in before engaging the PTO (mine is the non dual speed so I have a lever for the PTO, not a twist nob). Do I really need to do this? It doesn't say anything in the manual about doing so; it just says to engage the lever slowly at low engine rpm (which I have been doing in all 3 of my hours of use).

No, engage at an idle or just above

4. I know that on manual transmission tractors, you generally don't change gear while moving unless you absolutely have to. However, I note that the transmission that's on my model is a synchro gearbox for all 6 gears. So can I change gear while moving or would you advise against it? I have tried doing so at slow speed (low range) from 1st to 2nd gear and it feels ok; not as smooth as in a manual car but it is doable. Also, do I need to revmatch on downshifts or not? Cause it's kind of difficult when you have a hand throttle and you're not using the foot pedal.

I always match the ground speed and rpm and I don't use a clutch at all but that is an acquired thing that has to be learned. I would not attempt it if I were you. I always use the foot throttle except when matching pto speed for implements.

I think your model is actually an HDC3 if an open station and HDCC3 idfa cab.

I know that's a lot of questions but any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Hugo.

Read above....

 

[hugo7432]

1. - the range-group is not synchronized. So stop to change.

2. - It is difficult at the beginning. It'll get better, but it needs up to 400 hours. Use the range shifter as often as you can. Playing a little bit with the foot clutch while trying to change the range helps a lot.

3. - foot clutch and PTO clutch are completely independent. So engage the PTO just only with the lever. You can do while driving

4. - the 6-gear box is completely synchonized. You can change all gears while moving. Up and down.
As long as the gearoil is cold, do it slowly because the hydraulic clutch then needs a little time to open (and close).

Great. Thank you for your help

Just another quick question, if I have the shuttle in neutral, can I shift gears, say from 3rd to 4th, without using the foot clutch?

So what im really asking is what is the order of the components: engine, clutch, shuttle, main gears, and range gears?

 

[bernhardine]

... if I have the shuttle in neutral, can I shift gears ... without using the foot clutch?

yes. Your foot and the shuttle-neutral are using the same clutch

... what is the order of the components: engine, clutch, shuttle, main gears, and range gears?

engine - clutch - shuttle - range (groups) - main gears

 

[hugo7432]

Oh really, so pushing the foot clutch is the same thing mechanically as the shuttle in neutral?

 

[Tx Jim]

Hugo
Welcome to OTT
Did you receive an operator's manual with your tractor? If so from a former new/used equipment salesman standpoint I strongly suggest you read your tractors OM as it contains a vast amount of valuable information that over the long run could save you a lot of $$$$$$$$$

 

[hugo7432]

Hugo
Welcome to OTT
Did you receive an operator's manual with your tractor? If so from a former new/used equipment salesman standpoint I strongly suggest you read your tractors OM as it contains a vast amount of valuable information that over the long run could save you a lot of $$$$$$$$$

Yep. I sure did. And I've read it. It just seems that stuff like how to actually drive the tractor is not part of the manual. And I know its obvious but there are little details that aren't covered.

 

[Like Tractors]

Hi all

I have just taken delivery of my brand new Kubota M9540HDC (that is the 6 speed model with creep, low and high and a hydraulic shuttle but it is the non dual speed model) with an X36 loader and a Trimax Warlord flail. I am very happy with the tractor as it is a big upgrade over my old 2006 John Deere 2520 (which I'm still keeping though; it's a very good machine as well)!

I have a few questions for those who have experience with this model. Feel free to use technical language, I know a lot about tractors and mechanics.

1. Can I change the range (from creep to low to high) when moving, if I push the clutch in? Or do I have to come to a complete stop?

2. I've noticed that the range selector is very difficult to shift (when at a standstill with the clutch in, shuttle in neutral and gear shifter in neutral). Note I have the 3 different ranges of creep, low and high. I would describe the feel of the lever as sticky. Like it doesn't want to shift between the ranges. Does everyone have this issue or is it just me? Perhaps, is this something that wears in after a few hours of use? If I lift up the clutch and put it back down, I can eventually get it into the range I want. I haven't forced the gears at all nor will I ever do because I know this is bad for the gearbox. Nevertheless, what can I do to improve the shifting of the ranges?

3. The tractor salesman told me that I have to push the foot clutch in before engaging the PTO (mine is the non dual speed so I have a lever for the PTO, not a twist nob). Do I really need to do this? It doesn't say anything in the manual about doing so; it just says to engage the lever slowly at low engine rpm (which I have been doing in all 3 of my hours of use).

4. I know that on manual transmission tractors, you generally don't change gear while moving unless you absolutely have to. However, I note that the transmission that's on my model is a synchro gearbox for all 6 gears. So can I change gear while moving or would you advise against it? I have tried doing so at slow speed (low range) from 1st to 2nd gear and it feels ok; not as smooth as in a manual car but it is doable. Also, do I need to revmatch on downshifts or not? Cause it's kind of difficult when you have a hand throttle and you're not using the foot pedal.

I know that's a lot of questions but any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Hugo.

How on earth did you find a brand new M9540HDC Tractor? Haven't they been superseded multiple times?

 

[SidecarFlip]

Oh really, so pushing the foot clutch is the same thing mechanically as the shuttle in neutral?

REALLY......

There is NO clutch in any 'H' designate Kubota tractor. The 'clutch' is really a modulation valve that controls the lockup of the hydraulic travelling clutch pack.

It's all in your owners manual as Tx Jim states in his post.

 

[bernhardine]

How on earth did you find a brand new M9540HDC Tractor?

They are still available and in the actual price list in Down Under ........

 

[Tx Jim]

REALLY......

There is NO clutch in any 'H' designate Kubota tractor. The 'clutch' is really a modulation valve that controls the lockup of the hydraulic travelling clutch pack.

Tractors with hyd shuttle have a damper disk with springs that's bolted directly to engine flywheel to help absorb shock loads from changing directions/initial tractor movement but has no linkage associated with foot pedal

 

[hugo7432]

How on earth did you find a brand new M9540HDC Tractor? Haven't they been superseded multiple times?

Well, I bought it brand new from the dealer. They are definitely still producing them.

 

[hugo7432]

Tractors with hyd shuttle have a damper disk with springs that's bolted directly to engine flywheel to help absorb shock loads from changing directions/initial tractor movement but has no linkage associated with foot pedal

Ok. Good to know. Thankyou.

 

[hugo7432]

REALLY......

There is NO clutch in any 'H' designate Kubota tractor. The 'clutch' is really a modulation valve that controls the lockup of the hydraulic travelling clutch pack.

It's all in your owners manual as Tx Jim states in his post.

Ok. Thankyou.