Kubota M100X FWA - EGR Delete

[DHCC]

My 2015 M100x (just bought it used at 2100 hrs) with 2200 hrs was consuming oil like crazy. Like 8 liters a week (about every 20 hrs), so the dealer picked it up and took it to take the motor apart as, what i thought would be rings would shot, from the oil consumption and the crazy blow by from the oil cap.

They tore into it and found out that the cylinders were glazed up and the valves were completely caked in except for a tiny single hole in each one.

They sent the motor away for a de-glaze and cleaned up and for new rings. It was then run on the dyno to break in. The oil consumption has slowed down but still is consuming about 5 liters evey 80 hours now.

Kubotas' are new to me, i was told to run it at 1800+ rpm all the time if i can. Its amazing on fuel and has good power for how little this thing is, but worried this egr is messing up and just going to cause problems again. Anyone know anything about deleting them? Like blocker plates and engine tuning?

Or any advice on how to "properly" run it. The tractor gets used every day for about 3 hours, mostly loader work and pulling the feed wagon or bale processor.

Thanks!

 

[200mph]

If the dealer rebuilt the motor and it is using 5 liters of oil in 80 hours, I'd be having a conversation with them.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes something's not right, and an EGR delete is not the cure all for it.

That's a very solid engine design and you should be able to run it at any RPM's and not have it sucking any oil.

Does it smoke blue all the time?

 

[DHCC]

It use to blow quite a bit of blue smoke at start up and it would level off, but you could always see a blue haze coming out. I asked if they did a compression test before and after, which they didn't, but the compression must be better it because starts 'harder' than what it use to before.

When it was minus -30 degrees Celsius and that tractor was plugged in, just wait for the glow plugs to shut off, one crank and it would be away. Now at -10 it cranks for 2-3 seconds before it starts.

What causes these little 4 cylinders to glaze up that bad in that short amount of hours?

I don't idle this thing around. Like when i warm it up i idle it up to 1200 until the temp gauge starts reading with the pto running. Then i'll rev it up to 1500 until its 1/2 way to operating temp and once its warmed up its 1800-1900 all the time. Other than when the feed wagon is unloading feed. Its idled back to 1100.

 

[DHCC]

Yes something's not right, and an EGR delete is not the cure all for it.

That's a very solid engine design and you should be able to run it at any RPM's and not have it sucking any oil.

Does it smoke blue all the time?

But i guess getting back to your question, it hardly blows blue smoke now with the engine overhaul, or any smoke really. If its pretty cold it'll blow a bit right at startup for a few minutes. But it goes away entirely once it warms up. Or if its warm out (+5 ish) it won't even blow smoke at all.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

There are things in your posts that make me think... or know... that the rebuild wasn't done right or completely.

It should be starting better and quicker now if the rebuild was done right.

What you were explaining about the valves being caked and the cylinders glazed is a result of extremely worn valve guides and bad valve seals.
Yes it could also be a defective EGR valve, you can tell because the intake will have oil in it.
And depending on the compression numbers whether this also involved the rings.

The fact that it starts hard and takes longer, and you are still able to get any blue smoke out of it after a rebuild tells me that something is not right with it.

 

[mikester]

Our curiosity how much time do you allow your tractor to warm up and cool down at the end of the day?

 

[GeoHorn]

Our curiosity how much time do you allow your tractor to warm up and cool down at the end of the day?

Normal temps: 5 minutes
Cold days: 10 mins

Shut down: 2 mins at idle.