Hello everyone new to the forum so thanks in advance for any assistance. I have a 2014 l6060 hst rop. Will crank but will not turn over. I have no glow plug indication on instrument panel no power up the wire that connects to the glow plugs. I have pulled the glow plugs and tested they are good. I have changed glow plug relay still no power or light. The tractor will fire right up with a little shot of wd40 with no smoke and runs smooth and will crank right back up after it has been running but if it sits for a couple of hours no start. I’m not really sure what all is in the circuit. Any help would be much appreciated.
Kubota L6060 hst no power to glow plugs
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GP power is controlled by the computer. On-time is based on the coolant temperature. It could be the coolant sensor or circuit is faulty. If the dash light doesn’t come on the computer isn’t even sending a command to trip the relay.
I don’t have the wiring diagram for L60’s but on a L40 Pin 11 of the 20 pin connector to the dash panel is the GP wire to trip/energize the relay.
If you are out of warranty, suggest purchasing a manual and doing a search on this website as there are several threads covering the same subject matter. Just make certain to focus on the ones for Grand L’s.
Also keep in mind voltage on the GP power wire can NOT be measure Unless the GPs are removed from the circuit.
How handy are you with s voltmeter?
I don’t have the wiring diagram for L60’s but on a L40 Pin 11 of the 20 pin connector to the dash panel is the GP wire to trip/energize the relay.
If you are out of warranty, suggest purchasing a manual and doing a search on this website as there are several threads covering the same subject matter. Just make certain to focus on the ones for Grand L’s.
Also keep in mind voltage on the GP power wire can NOT be measure Unless the GPs are removed from the circuit.
How handy are you with s voltmeter?
At the battery there is a dedicated 40A fuse for the glow plugs, Please check this first.
If the fuse is fine, the next step would be to check Fuses near the operator station, the glow plug relay requires both a Constant feed from a always on +12V fuse and a ignition feed from the ignition fuse.
If all of this is OK, check the plug by the thermostat for coolant temperature, it could have a bad wire or become unplugged, this powers the timing of the relay, although it should default to 5 seconds on if it has no signal.
If the fuse is fine, the next step would be to check Fuses near the operator station, the glow plug relay requires both a Constant feed from a always on +12V fuse and a ignition feed from the ignition fuse.
If all of this is OK, check the plug by the thermostat for coolant temperature, it could have a bad wire or become unplugged, this powers the timing of the relay, although it should default to 5 seconds on if it has no signal.
85Hokie
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Agree fuses are a good check, but the 50 amp slow burn fuse does not impact the fact the OP does not get any indication in the dash. The dash symbol is on the command side of the relay, not the high current side that feeds the GP.
If the OP checks for voltage at the relay socket (relay removed) it would go a long way in isolating what part of the circuit is bad. This would be a good place to start. As described in the posts above two separate 12 volt wires feed the relay.
If voltages checks out OK inspect the socket to verify the terminals are fully seated within the connector.
Hopefully the OP will return with detail diagnostics.
If the OP checks for voltage at the relay socket (relay removed) it would go a long way in isolating what part of the circuit is bad. This would be a good place to start. As described in the posts above two separate 12 volt wires feed the relay.
If voltages checks out OK inspect the socket to verify the terminals are fully seated within the connector.
Hopefully the OP will return with detail diagnostics.
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When you said there was no glow plug indicator visible on the dash, if you are in Texas, I would not expect to see it normally. It is not visible until the temperature is down in the teens, and then you are expected to wait until it goes off before cranking. I have the impression that the glow plugs may in fact be activated during the time the panel is going through its power up display. It may be important to let it go through that self check before turning the key to crank. Otherwise the computer control of this would make trouble shooting this by the usual means difficult.
Thanks for all your input the 2 relays I changed were on the side of the ecu underneath the right rear wheel everything that Ive seen says under the consol but the parts break down from Kubota shows by the ecu can any confirm the placement of the gp relays and is there 1 or 2. Thanks
Just keep shootin' the WD 40 to it.
Techs are slow right now and could use the work.
Seriously. If it won't start on it's own, quit trying to "aid" it before you destroy it....trust me...if you bend rods on that engine, you're going to be sorta mad at yourself. And yes WD will bend rods just the same as Ether and gas rags will.
Techs are slow right now and could use the work.
Seriously. If it won't start on it's own, quit trying to "aid" it before you destroy it....trust me...if you bend rods on that engine, you're going to be sorta mad at yourself. And yes WD will bend rods just the same as Ether and gas rags will.
There are two relays for glow plugs. One relay turns on the other relay. However the placement depends on a serial number break.
The older version has one by the ecu, and the main one is next to the large fuse box in the front near the radiator.
On the newer version of the tractor both are by the radiator support near the large fuse box.
Both appear to be under a cover.
HOWEVER. This tractor is particularly complicated and has a lot of factors, if you do not have a glow light on the dash come on, it means the ECU is not calling for it which is before any of the relays, meaning that the water temperature sensor may be broken or disconnected. However, the issue could be deeper.. and I would recommend a dealer scan the computer
Try this non published work around which may give you manual control over the Glow plugs on your model.
The trick is to put the shuttle shift lever in forward and turn the key to the start position.
Count to 10, put the shuttle back into the neutral position and start the engine.
No GP light will come on when you are doing this.
Many owners have found this makes a big difference.
Dave
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Dave he has a HST, the shuttle shift lever is actually the speed control for high or low. It is not forward and reverse. On the HST+ transmission, we have 3 "gears" L, M, H and in each gear we also have a high/low. Kind of confusing but it is fantastic for loader work.
Ok but there is likely a trick for his model. If he has a lever, any lever which, in some position, inhibits starting, it would be worth trying.
Dave
Could this be another issue other then the glow plugs since after I get it started it runs perfectly and will start right back up as long as it doesn’t sit for more than a couple of hours it just will not start on its own the first time. Again thanks for all of your input.
It probably is something other than the glow plugs, but pay attention to what lugbolt said. You will be shooting yourself in the foot fooling around with wd-40. There is a 5 year warranty on a lot of the engine components, but you will void that screwing around like you have been. It will be a LOT cheaper to take it in to a dealer or get one with a laptop to come out and read the diagnostic codes on it. Do you have a wsm?
Looked in my wsm for the 60 series, and there is a simplified diagram that shows one wire going to the glow plug relay from the ECu and one wire from the battery, and one from main switch. One safe thing to check would be the battery itself, remove and load test, and then clean the grounds and other connections. If there is rust anywhere there might not be enough juice to run all the pumps and a brief glow as well.
I spend some time with the owner of my friendly Kubota dealership discussing the L6060HST.
He went through known problems surrounding the GP's on this model in a Kubota database. Block heater feature prominently in the starting problems making things worse not better.
Due to a quirk in the Can Bus linking two cpu's on the tractor, it can take up to two seconds for the GP light to come on. If you dont see the light and immediately begin cranking, you might miss out on some ON GP time.
Turn the key to ON and wait two seconds to see if the GP light comes on.
In 2016, Kubota realized there were problems in their software managing the GP's in cold weather and with block heaters. The promised upgrade arrived almost 2 years later.
To get any upgrade, the dealer has to install it with their computer and software. The Bulletin # for the upgrade AG011-17Rev 1.
These upgrades are different depending upon the serial number of your tractor.
There was also suggestions to upgrade the battery negative cable to improve engine cranking speed.
The dealer confirmed there is no manual work around for the GP's like on the M series.
I have a Kubota WSM for the L6060HST. Send me a PM.
Dave
He went through known problems surrounding the GP's on this model in a Kubota database. Block heater feature prominently in the starting problems making things worse not better.
Due to a quirk in the Can Bus linking two cpu's on the tractor, it can take up to two seconds for the GP light to come on. If you dont see the light and immediately begin cranking, you might miss out on some ON GP time.
Turn the key to ON and wait two seconds to see if the GP light comes on.
In 2016, Kubota realized there were problems in their software managing the GP's in cold weather and with block heaters. The promised upgrade arrived almost 2 years later.
To get any upgrade, the dealer has to install it with their computer and software. The Bulletin # for the upgrade AG011-17Rev 1.
These upgrades are different depending upon the serial number of your tractor.
There was also suggestions to upgrade the battery negative cable to improve engine cranking speed.
The dealer confirmed there is no manual work around for the GP's like on the M series.
I have a Kubota WSM for the L6060HST. Send me a PM.
Dave
That makes sense Dave. These tractors do not have glow plug lights but rather a liquid crystal display screen. When you turn the key to on, one click to the right, the screen comes on and displays a Kubota logo etc, and it takes about 2 sec or more to settle. At the end of this time if you are going to see the glow plug spiral symbol at the top of the screen you will. As I said before, you don't see it until it is really cold, so if you skip watching the screen it could be bad. When it goes out then turn the key further to the right and cranking starts. When I bought my 3560 in 2013 the dealer advised against a block heater. I don't have one, and have been fine starting down as low as about 8 or 9 F.
Update ok guys I now have power to glow plugs and can hear the relay clicking off does not stay on very long maybe a few seconds before it clicks off still no start so do y’all think it might be a fuel issue or gp not warming long enough due to coolant temp sensor again thanks for everyone’s input
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And I'll second the refraining from using any starting aid!
How long have you been doing that?
It could very well have damaged the engine to the point that it won't start on it's own, because of a lack of compression, it sure seems to match the symptoms.
To check this you'll need to do a compression test.
I would do that before you go much further on it!
How long have you been doing that?
It could very well have damaged the engine to the point that it won't start on it's own, because of a lack of compression, it sure seems to match the symptoms.
To check this you'll need to do a compression test.
I would do that before you go much further on it!
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