Kubota L485 loader Bucket not tilting or curling

[Kubotaev]

I have an early 1990s kubota l2650 that i got in a trade a month or so ago, this is my first tractor and i have had to replace pretty much all of the hydraulic lines, new quick connects and a lot of rust repair (it was on the coast before i owned it). When I got it the cylinders were not on it so when i got the lines redone i put them on and the loader itself would go up and down but the bucket would just hang all the way down in the dump position. I attempted to lower forcefully retract it by letting the loader all the way down and go in reverse. That didnt go well as i bent the "drivers side" cylinder shaft like a noodle. I bought 2 new cylinders for the bucket and it does the same thing. it just acts like it is kinked and will not move more than an inch, it seems like the "drivers side" cylinder is not wanting to move at all. So I switched the quick connects around so that the power that normally goes to the loader itself would go to the bucket. No change, does the same thing. Everything else works except the bucket, 3 pt, steering, loader etc. I even took the lines off of the cylinders and manually curled the bucket then re-attached the lines to the cylinders. I tried moving it a little so see if i could get it moving on its own but when i lifted the loader it just flopped right back down. Im kind of lost right now. I have a video I will see if i can put it on YouTube and post the link here. Thanks guys!

 

[Dave_eng]

It sounds like the lines to the bucket cylinders are not going to the same place on each cylinder so they are fighting each other.

Dave

 

[Kubotaev]

It sounds like the lines to the bucket cylinders are not going to the same place on each cylinder so they are fighting each other.

Dave

So are you saying I should switch the lines around on one cylinder? I am going off of the diagram in the book I have, but I can try that! Thanks

 

[Dave_eng]

So are you saying I should switch the lines around on one cylinder? I am going off of the diagram in the book I have, but I can try that! Thanks

Disconnect the lines completely from one bucket cylinder and cap the lines.
Remove the cylinder with no lines connected to it from the FEL
If it now works you have a big clue.

Dave

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's got to be crossed lines to the cylinders.
Simple, follow the lines make sure top line on one cylinder goes to the same connection as the other.

Also one bad disconnect ( on either line, male of female side) can cause this to happen, so eliminate them to test.

 

[Kubotaev]

It's got to be crossed lines to the cylinders.
Simple, follow the lines make sure top line on one cylinder goes to the same connection as the other.

Also one bad disconnect ( on either line, male of female side) can cause this to happen, so eliminate them to test.

I did switch the lines but it did the same thing, the lines in my manual show one line going to the top of one cylinder and the bottom of the other. I attached a scan of what is in my manual.

 

[whitetiger]

I did switch the lines but it did the same thing, the lines in my manual show one line going to the top of one cylinder and the bottom of the other. I attached a scan of what is in my manual.

There is a mistake in the picture. It does show connecting the butt end of one cylinder to the rod end of the other bucket cylinder. The correct plumbing is to have both butt ends of the cylinders connected together and both rod ends connected together.

If you cross them as shown, one cylinder is trying to extend while the other is trying to retract. Kind of confuses the bucket.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That is one messed up diagram!

 

[Kubotaev]

That is one messed up diagram!

Looks like I wont be using this book very much! I will switch the lines back like you guys are saying and try it again.It did the same thing when i did it last time but maybe it will work. I cant imagine my new lines would have a block in them considering they cost as much as they do. Thanks for clearing that up guys!

 

[Kubotaev]

Thanks guys! The bucket now curls and tilts, but only when I put it in the "float" setting on the stick. It acts like it wants to curl/tilt when I do side to side but it does not. I will mess with it more tomorrow. Thanks again.
ps: How hard is it to rebuild the valve that the lever connects to if that is my problem?

 

[Kubotaev]

Might I add, this tractor only has 220 hours on it, starts up at a flick of the key. there was definitely more damage from it sitting than doing actual work with it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks guys! The bucket now curls and tilts, but only when I put it in the "float" setting on the stick. It acts like it wants to curl/tilt when I do side to side but it does not. I will mess with it more tomorrow. Thanks again.
ps: How hard is it to rebuild the valve that the lever connects to if that is my problem?

Sounds like you have the lines at the valves crossed up as well, or input out put lines crossed.

If the valve has issues, there really is no rebuild to them, you'll have to do a replacement valve.

 

[Kubotaev]

Sounds like you have the lines at the valves crossed up as well, or input out put lines crossed.

If the valve has issues, there really is no rebuild to them, you'll have to do a replacement valve.

Thanks a lot you guys. I might as well throw that manual in the garbage. The quick connects to the valve were wrong. After taking the boot and cover off of the valve i could see what motions moved what valve and found out that the number "2" and "3" quick connects were backwards. It works great now. Cant believe the manual was that wrong. Thanks guys!

 

[whitetiger]

Better make the needed corrections to your manual while you know what needs to be corrected.

 

[Kubotaev]

Better make the needed corrections to your manual while you know what needs to be corrected.

Oh yes, I made it very clear in the manual! Even used red ink