Took safety switch off seat. Had tested and is ok. Told Kubota mechanic engine cranks and runs for approx. 5 minutes and cuts off like turning off with key. Try to crank in 3 to 5 secs, cranks and runs for about 5 secs. Let set for 3 to 4 minutes, cranks and runs about 5 minutes and shuts off again. Mechanic said it sounds like the solenoid. I will pull and let him bench test. Give me your opinion. Also he said a Kubota solenoid runs about 150 to 180 dollars. Can I purchase one cheaper at auto parts store, and if so where. Drained all fuel, added fuel conditioner, changed fuel filter prior to above. Put in new battery about 3 weeks ago. It ran fine up until now. Please reply. Would appreciate another opinion.
Kubota L3830 Solenoid Question
- Thread starter rmauldin
- Start date
Do you have a glass fuel-filter bowl so you can see if it is remaining full?
Clean (wire-brush) the 4 ends of two battery cables and battery posts. There's been several instances of "new battery now it shuts off" because of a dirty or loose connections.
Clean (wire-brush) the 4 ends of two battery cables and battery posts. There's been several instances of "new battery now it shuts off" because of a dirty or loose connections.
Will look again at bowl. But it did look full to me. You mentioned a new battery. While I was trying to crank the tractor I had my battery charger connected. Once tractor cranked (and ran for 5 minutes and shut off), I took the charger leads off the battery removing the red first and then the black last. When I took the black off last the tractor cut off. Will try cleaning cables and post (new battery) and see what happens. If it ran for about 5 minutes do you still think it could be air in the fuel?
I was thinking more like fuel flow restriction, you were thinking solenoid since it shuts off the fuel, anything else that blocks the fuel will act like a solenoid.
Thanks again for replying. When I get home I am going to check the fuel filter bowl. I assume loosening the ring nut a little and letting the fuel run out will get any air out of the bowl. I know to that I may have to bleed the injectors lines but I will try the bowl first. Any other suggestions I would greatly appreciate. Thank you so much.
I've gone through several of the fuel stop solenoids on a L3650. They run about $60 each. Labor for installation may up the cost quite a bit but they are easy to put on yourself.
Can you see your solenoid with the tractor running? It is about the size of a tomato paste can. Watch it while the tractor is running. If it activates the rod that comes out of it and the tractor shuts down then there you have it.
You can also disconnect the solenoid's rod that connects to the fuel shut off lever. The tractor will then need to be manually shut down by moving the lever to the shut position. If you have a pull rod near one of your knees that connects to the fuel shut off lever then just use that.
If none of this works then it is not your solenoid but something else.
Can you see your solenoid with the tractor running? It is about the size of a tomato paste can. Watch it while the tractor is running. If it activates the rod that comes out of it and the tractor shuts down then there you have it.
You can also disconnect the solenoid's rod that connects to the fuel shut off lever. The tractor will then need to be manually shut down by moving the lever to the shut position. If you have a pull rod near one of your knees that connects to the fuel shut off lever then just use that.
If none of this works then it is not your solenoid but something else.
If you took the solenoid off and the tractor still won't run (with the fuel cut off lever set to allow diesel through the lines) then the problem isn't the solenoid. The tractor will run just fine without the solenoid.
The solenoid's only function is to cut off the fuel and allow the engine to die. In about 15 to 20 seconds the power to the solenoid will automatically shut off, it will relax, and open up the fuel line.
That said, the solenoid could be bad along with something else. Testing it won't hurt.
It you mean the starter won't even crank, then that is the seat safety switch or the clutch switch; the clutch switch won't make the solenoid drop out though. so I'm guessing a flaky seat switch.
read through this thread> http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8130
Yes, I saw where the switch was tested; but if the switch is interfaced through a microprocessor a standard ohm-meter or light bulb test won't see the "noise" that could initiate a false trigger into "safety shutdown."
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Thanks to everyone for there suggestions. I had the fuel shutoff solenoid bench tested and it was bad. I cut off the plunger rod, reinstalled it and it cranked and runs like a dream. (Yes I know this kills all safety features if I fall off the seat-I am not crazy about this either). I attached a burn proof rope to the throttle and ran it through my dash board. I pull on it to kill the engine. The solenoid from Kubota cost $166.00. I think this is probally one of the very few defects Kubota has, as I was told by three different Kubota mechanics. Can't see where that little thing should be that expensive. Tried to buy a second hand one, but most people said they did what I did and cut off the rod. With my current cash flow dilema, I chose to do the above.
Again thank you all for replying.
Again thank you all for replying.
Did you fix im having same problem i changed the solenoid and seat switch still have problem