Kubota l3301dt won’t move once in high gear

[BOOMROASTED]

I can’t remember if it was while I was working the tractor or not, but all the sudden it doesn’t want to move in high gear. I do a lot of loader work clearing my land with a grapple. It is fine in low, and even in high 1 but anything higher and it won’t move. The engine sound changes as if it’s under load but no signs of anything stopping it from going. Clutch pedal has been adjusted and no parking brake on. Any suggestions or is there a clutch replacement in my future? Thanks in advance!

 

[JasonW]

That would leans towards a clutch replacement. As long as it’s adjusted correctly.
How many hours?

 

[BOOMROASTED]

That would leans towards a clutch replacement. As long as it’s adjusted correctly.
How many hours?

I’m fairly certain it’s adjusted correctly, about an inch of play. The tractor has roughly 160 hours. Anything else I could possibly check before I split it?

 

[Dave_eng]

I’m fairly certain it’s adjusted correctly, about an inch of play. The tractor has roughly 160 hours. Anything else I could possibly check before I split it?

According to the WSM the L3301 has a single stage clutch.
Are you a tractor novice as having a clutch wear out with only 160 hrs seems very odd.
Are there any oil leaks coming from the underside of the clutch area. You may have a drain device and if so push it in and see what if anything comes out. It will look like a small pin protruding from a larger nut.
Oil and you have a seal leaking oil which could have contaminated the clutch face. Water, hard to say what damage it could cause but not good.
Dave

 

[JasonW]

Wow that’s super low hours for needing a clutch. Although if abused they will wear fast. That adjustment sounds about right, I believe you can find a downloadable service manual for that model for free. I have a copy of it on my work computer.

 

[BOOMROASTED]

According to the WSM the L3301 has a single stage clutch.
Are you a tractor novice as having a clutch wear out with only 160 hrs seems very odd.
Are there any oil leaks coming from the underside of the clutch area. You may have a drain device and if so push it in and see what if anything comes out. It will look like a small pin protruding from a larger nut.
Oil and you have a seal leaking oil which could have contaminated the clutch face. Water, hard to say what damage it could cause but not good.
Dave

Nothing leaks when I push that pin, I did notice today what seemed to be hydraulic oil underneath but didn’t investigate where the source was. This is my first tractor and I do use it for a lot of loader work but I don’t ride the clutch or shift while moving or anything harmful. If there is oil on the clutch or flywheel would that cause the engine to sound like it’s under a load when I release the clutch?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Nothing leaks when I push that pin, I did notice today what seemed to be hydraulic oil underneath but didn’t investigate where the source was. This is my first tractor and I do use it for a lot of loader work but I don’t ride the clutch or shift while moving or anything harmful. If there is oil on the clutch or flywheel would that cause the engine to sound like it’s under a load when I release the clutch?

So it moves fine in all gears in low.
And will move in High 1 but high 2,3,4 it wont, right?

Does the tractor not move at all when in high 2?
Or does it move, just move real sluggishly?

It does sound like the clutch is fried.
I would get into it sooner than later.

And no an oil contaminated disk will not bog the motor down.

 

[BOOMROASTED]

So it moves fine in all gears in low.
And will move in High 1 but high 2,3,4 it wont, right?

Does the tractor not move at all when in high 2?
Or does it move, just move real sluggishly?

It does sound like the clutch is fried.
I would get into it sooner than later.

And no an oil contaminated disk will not bog the motor down.

It will move sluggishly in high 2 but any kind of resistance like an incline or something it will come to a stop.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It will move sluggishly in high 2 but any kind of resistance like an incline or something it will come to a stop.

Yep clutch is fried!
Replace clutch disk, pressure plate and throw-out bearing.

 

[BOOMROASTED]

Yep clutch is fried!
Replace clutch disk, pressure plate and throw-out bearing.

Thanks for the info!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You going to do it yourself?
Do you have the WSM (aka Service Manual)?

 

[BOOMROASTED]

You going to do it yourself?
Do you have the WSM (aka Service Manual)?

Yea I’m going to give it a shot, I feel like with the help of YouTube I should be able to get it done. I actually do have the WSM, from a member here last time I had something come up. You guys are great!

 

[BOOMROASTED]

You going to do it yourself?
Do you have the WSM (aka Service Manual)?

Reviving a thread to ask if you know a place to order parts from for cheaper than dealer prices?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Reviving a thread to ask if you know a place to order parts from for cheaper than dealer prices?

Sadly it does not look like the Aftermarket suppliers have caught up to the these new models.
It's looking like OEM is the only option, and yes a dealer is the only outlet at this time.


CAUTION: There are internet listings for L3301 clutch parts, they are either overseas, and/or they are for a MUCH MUCH older, grey market L3301.