im a new member here. i just bought a l2250 with loader and front mount snow blower does anyone have a downloadable version of the owners manual and service manual. there was a warning light on and it appears to be coolant level but the rad was full
kubota l2250
- Thread starter kubotal2250
- Start date
I have attached the WSM page dealing with checking the operation of the coolant level circuit.
There have been times on this forum where owners have been confused by a light on the dash which turned out to be a battery electrolyte warning bulb from the days when some batteries had an electrode reaching down into the battery. When the electrolyte level dropped the warning light came on. Newer batteries no longer have this feature and sometimes the wire for this circuit gets broken/ no longer in contact with electrolyte thus turning on the dash light. The electrode sensor turns on a transistor controlling the dash light so it is not as simple as I describe
Dave
There have been times on this forum where owners have been confused by a light on the dash which turned out to be a battery electrolyte warning bulb from the days when some batteries had an electrode reaching down into the battery. When the electrolyte level dropped the warning light came on. Newer batteries no longer have this feature and sometimes the wire for this circuit gets broken/ no longer in contact with electrolyte thus turning on the dash light. The electrode sensor turns on a transistor controlling the dash light so it is not as simple as I describe
Dave
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
awesome thank alot. does any one have any list of what all the warning lights mean? maybe im reading the wrong light
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Just got my equipment delivered yesterday and got a l2250 4x4 with a bf400g loader and a b/l2563 snow blower. The tractor has 3800 hrs on the Hr meter. I'm in the midst of checking all fluid levels and getting a list of materials to do a full service. The low coolant level warning light is on as I previously stated and when taking the rad cap off have lots of coolant gushing out. But there is none in the overflow tank. I'm wondering if the line would be blocked . Can I just add coolant to the overflow tank ? Or is there another way of adding it? I found a operators manual onlinebthat I am getting
Not familiar with that tractor but, Is it possible that the radiator cap is too high pressure to allow coolant to get to the overflow tank? If not it's possible the hose to said tank is plugged.
Not sure. Also I've got a cab heater overhead in my cab so it could be draining back when I open the rad cap as its lower but still doesn't explain the lack of coolant in the overflow tank. I'm gonna pick up some oil to do an oil change. What oil does everyone suggest. Sorry for all the questions just wanna use the right stuff
There is some basic physics involved when the heater is above the top of the open rad cap where you are adding fluid.
I suspect the engine needs to be running so the water pump pressure is available to lift the coolant to the level of the over head heater.
Dave
I suspect the engine needs to be running so the water pump pressure is available to lift the coolant to the level of the over head heater.
Dave
I understand the need for the pump to create lift in order to add coolant but am still trying to understand why the overflow tank is empty
I will try and answer your question in this way.
Cars built in the 1950's and 1960's did not have a rad overflow/coolant recovery tank.
Their rad caps released fluid to relieve excess pressure to just drop unto the ground.
With the arrival of coolant recovery systems, a different style rad cap was needed. One that would not only release pressure but one which would maintain a vacuum in the space of the rad filler neck where an overflow tube would be connected.
If you add coolant to the overflow tank to the indicated level and operate the engine, if as the engine cools down there is a need for coolant to flow from the overflow tank back into the rad, a vacuum is created which will suck the fluid back into the rad.
For this to work properly, the correct rad cap must be used. Typically it will have a rubber seal that seats against the top of the rad filler neck in addition to the rubber seal which deals with over pressure.
The top of the rad filler neck must be free from dings, nicks and scratches as the vacuum is easily broken.
The hose between the rad filler neck and the overflow tank must be in excellent condition as a small crack which will not reveal itself as fluid flows into the overflow tank, will be sufficient to break the vacuum trying to suck fluid back into the rad.
If you want to test out parts of the overflow system, test one would be to remove the hose from the filler neck when the engine is warm. Use a clear plastic tube in the shape of a U partially filled with just water. Connect one end of the tube to the filler neck and then watch the fluid level in the U tube as the engine cools down. if a vacuum is being created, the fluid level in the tube will react by one side of the U fluid level being lower than its opposite side.
Test two: flush out the overflow tank and hose with fresh water. Hold the tube above the level of the overflow tank and gently suck with your mouth. Fluid should rise in the tube above the fluid level in the overflow tank if all is well.
If you have a tool like a Mityvac it can be used.
Dave
i checked the coolant and was ok in the rad. added some 50/50 to the overflow tank and changed the oil and filter in the motor. i plugged to coolant heat in for an hour and it started up with no problem. all hydraulics work great . its got a sims cab on it so i just have to mess around with the instrument panel to figure out how to get heat on and im good to go i think. the unit came with a b/l2563 snow blower that i beleive it a rear mount unit but it has been modified to a front mount unit and runs off the mid pto i just have to figure out how to hook it up
kubotasam
Well-known member
Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
That snow Blower was sold as a rear mount or a front mount. You can look on the Kubota parts website to see a diagram of the parts needed to connect to front mount.
do you think it would be possible to use it as a rear mount unit ? i plan on keeping the loader on year round