First off just want to say im new to this form. I have a L185 2wd I'm looking for maintenance manual and owners manual. The L185 I have is in ruff shape and I like to get it fixed up . It runs but smokes when it is being started and oil light is on. Any help anyone can give be greatfull
kubota L185
- Thread starter carroll
- Start date
Hi Carroll and welcome to the forum.
I am a relative new comer here myself but since joining have found that everyone here appears to be a friendly and helpful bunch.
On to your problems.
First of all, if the oil light is on, do not run up the engine until you have found what is causing the light to illuminate. If it is a bad earth or a faulty oil switch then thats fine but if it is any other reason then you could be doing your engine untold harm. It may even be the reason why your engine is smoking in the first place. You must investigate the cause of the oil light first.
Regarding the owners manual.
I have a L1501. The L185F is the same model. If you PM me with your email details I can forward you a copy of the owners manual. I can also forward you the parts manual. I only have a hard copy of the workshop manual so can't help you there.
Gary
I am a relative new comer here myself but since joining have found that everyone here appears to be a friendly and helpful bunch.
On to your problems.
First of all, if the oil light is on, do not run up the engine until you have found what is causing the light to illuminate. If it is a bad earth or a faulty oil switch then thats fine but if it is any other reason then you could be doing your engine untold harm. It may even be the reason why your engine is smoking in the first place. You must investigate the cause of the oil light first.
Regarding the owners manual.
I have a L1501. The L185F is the same model. If you PM me with your email details I can forward you a copy of the owners manual. I can also forward you the parts manual. I only have a hard copy of the workshop manual so can't help you there.
Gary
I found out beside the oild being wrong that the owner all so didnt change filters and such.So I'll be draining everthing and hopefully get everthing back and running right
Oh Lord dont you just hate that??? Welcome to the world of ORANGE, never never never fear to ask something anything anytime,,, well ok somethings ya cant ask,, but you get the point
But really it may take some time to get an answer but someplace out there some one has stumbled on the same things as you have.
But really it may take some time to get an answer but someplace out there some one has stumbled on the same things as you have.thank you nice to find a place i can get more information about the tractor i have. Only thing I'm looking for is the manuals . check the wiring tonight and everything to the front is cut taped and deteriorating
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
See Messick's (link to the manual page below) and you can get the manuals for the L185 in hard copy.
http://www.messicks.com/TractorParts/Kubota/L185.aspx
http://www.messicks.com/TractorParts/Kubota/L185.aspx
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
You are welcome.
I also have a L185F that I recently bought. I have been pleasantly surprised by the cost of most parts from the dealer. It might be worth checking into a wiring harness directly from your local dealer.
Also there is no real need to get the parts manual in hard copy - it is available on Kubota.com at http://www.kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx
You can then look up the part numbers and create list of the parts you want.
Go to Messicks and type in the part numbers and you can get some idea if they are resonable or not. Some parts seem way expensive for what they are others are cheap that you would think would cost a lot more. You can order from Messick's or your local dealer.
Good luck in getting it going - they are great little tractors.
Oh - look on the Kubota website for the ROPS kit you can get to add - if you don't already have one. They are resonable (~150 USD) for the part and then the dealer will install it or you can. The dealer installation is discounted to almost nothing if you can get your tractor to the dealer. Takes several weeks to get in in from Kubota but it will get to you. Mine just came in and I ordered it back in Late June or early July. Need to pick it up tomorrow or next week.
I also have a L185F that I recently bought. I have been pleasantly surprised by the cost of most parts from the dealer. It might be worth checking into a wiring harness directly from your local dealer.
Also there is no real need to get the parts manual in hard copy - it is available on Kubota.com at http://www.kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx
You can then look up the part numbers and create list of the parts you want.
Go to Messicks and type in the part numbers and you can get some idea if they are resonable or not. Some parts seem way expensive for what they are others are cheap that you would think would cost a lot more. You can order from Messick's or your local dealer.
Good luck in getting it going - they are great little tractors.
Oh - look on the Kubota website for the ROPS kit you can get to add - if you don't already have one. They are resonable (~150 USD) for the part and then the dealer will install it or you can. The dealer installation is discounted to almost nothing if you can get your tractor to the dealer. Takes several weeks to get in in from Kubota but it will get to you. Mine just came in and I ordered it back in Late June or early July. Need to pick it up tomorrow or next week.
Do you know the part number of the ROPS you bought for your L185. Went to the Kubota web site and they counld not find my tractor by the Serial Number
http://kubota.servicemanualvault.com/Kubota-L185-Service-Manual.html
Best $9.95 i have spent this week! Downloaded the L185 manual for my L1501DT today. Everything ive looked at in the manual so far as been the same.
Best $9.95 i have spent this week! Downloaded the L185 manual for my L1501DT today. Everything ive looked at in the manual so far as been the same.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
If I remember correctly the Kubota site would not find the serial number for my tractor either. There was some method to e-mail them and provide them the information on the tractor. Then Kubota e-mailed a quote for the ROPS. It showed what dealer to call and gave the costs involved.
The Model number was SFL-27.
The Model number was SFL-27.
Their is a service bulletin for old L models for the plug in the end of the cam shaft falling out. If this happens you will not have any oil pressure. I just went through this with mine. Install an oil pressure gauge to find out if you have oil pressure or not.
right now trying to find the books for the tractor. Just from removeing a few item i see i need part service and owner manuals.
Russell King just got th letter back from Kubota the ROPS are SFL-27 for 2 148.00. Labor 170.00 shiping 90.00 tax 28.56 for total 436.56. but dealer intalled promotional price 316.56
oil pressure
The previous owner of my L245 ran it for untold years with the oil pressure light on. It was the first thing I fixed.
If the oil pressure switch is working ok and you've eliminated wiring, AND you're considering the possibility of the missing cam plug for low oil pressure, look over my thread (querry "L245 oil pressure") It was a fun journey.
I also have the service bulletin if you're interested. The bulletin was informative but the fix method I didn't follow. I took the advice given here on OTT and it worked out well. Still got oil pressure!
The previous owner of my L245 ran it for untold years with the oil pressure light on. It was the first thing I fixed.
If the oil pressure switch is working ok and you've eliminated wiring, AND you're considering the possibility of the missing cam plug for low oil pressure, look over my thread (querry "L245 oil pressure") It was a fun journey.
I also have the service bulletin if you're interested. The bulletin was informative but the fix method I didn't follow. I took the advice given here on OTT and it worked out well. Still got oil pressure!
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I picked up the ROPS for my L185F yesterday. It seems that the same model ROPS is supposed to fit the L175, L185,... L245 series.
The crate that is was shipped in was huge! It would not fit in the back of my Nissan Frontier truck. I don't even think it would have fit into a standard truck. The ROPS came out of the crate easily and took very little room in the bed of the truck.
I plan on putting it on next weekend so I'll post about how it goes.
The crate that is was shipped in was huge! It would not fit in the back of my Nissan Frontier truck. I don't even think it would have fit into a standard truck. The ROPS came out of the crate easily and took very little room in the bed of the truck.
I plan on putting it on next weekend so I'll post about how it goes.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Well I finally got the ROPS installed onto the tractor! The instructions that came with it were easy to follow but lead you down some dead end paths.
When I installed mine they said to mount one side and then the other, align the top and install the top splice plate and then tighten both sides down. That worked fine, then they eventually told you to mount a connector right behind seat level. Well that would not fit between the ROPS halves with out taking them back loose and spreading them apart (the bends in the material expands the width so the connector would not slide down from the top). Well that causes the splice plate at the top joint to come out of one side. The two sides were not exactly the same height so they now sprung out of alignment....
This is how I finally got mine to work out easier:
First spray all of the threaded holes in the back of the tractor with lubricant/oil.
(don't tighten any bolt/nut very much through out the installation until they are all installed - or you will be loosening them!)
Install the splice plate at the top into one side.
Install the studs into the CORRECT holes (the top set of holes that held on the top link bracket - NOT the top set in the back of the tractor).
Lift one ROPS side onto the stud and put a nut to hold it on - don't tighten it down though. (having two people lift would be easier since these are fairly heavy)
Put one more bolt into that side to keep it in place and stable - don't tighten them much.
Put the other side on in a similar manner. Don't connect the top.
Put in the connector plate (near the seat level) that connects the two sides together. Install one/ bolt to hold it in place.
Install all of the bolts through the ROPS into the back of the tractor. (it will probably take some amount of prying/lifting/cajoling to get them all to start.
DON'T tighten them down, just get them started a few threads in.
Align the connector plate and install all 4 bolts.
Hopefully the top of the two halves are also aligned and the splice plate is in place.
(The two halves on mine were about 2 inches out of vertical alignment and about .75 out of front to back alignment. I had to use a bit of persuation with a come-a-long to lift one side and another to pull other side down and a bit of prying to get them aligned)
Get the splice plate at the top in place and both bolts installed. Snug these a little bit.
Tighten all the bolts/nuts into the back of the tractor, tighten the connector plate, tighten the splice plate at the top.
Torque all of the bolts as required by the instructions.
When I installed mine they said to mount one side and then the other, align the top and install the top splice plate and then tighten both sides down. That worked fine, then they eventually told you to mount a connector right behind seat level. Well that would not fit between the ROPS halves with out taking them back loose and spreading them apart (the bends in the material expands the width so the connector would not slide down from the top). Well that causes the splice plate at the top joint to come out of one side. The two sides were not exactly the same height so they now sprung out of alignment....
This is how I finally got mine to work out easier:
First spray all of the threaded holes in the back of the tractor with lubricant/oil.
(don't tighten any bolt/nut very much through out the installation until they are all installed - or you will be loosening them!)
Install the splice plate at the top into one side.
Install the studs into the CORRECT holes (the top set of holes that held on the top link bracket - NOT the top set in the back of the tractor).
Lift one ROPS side onto the stud and put a nut to hold it on - don't tighten it down though. (having two people lift would be easier since these are fairly heavy)
Put one more bolt into that side to keep it in place and stable - don't tighten them much.
Put the other side on in a similar manner. Don't connect the top.
Put in the connector plate (near the seat level) that connects the two sides together. Install one/ bolt to hold it in place.
Install all of the bolts through the ROPS into the back of the tractor. (it will probably take some amount of prying/lifting/cajoling to get them all to start.
DON'T tighten them down, just get them started a few threads in.
Align the connector plate and install all 4 bolts.
Hopefully the top of the two halves are also aligned and the splice plate is in place.
(The two halves on mine were about 2 inches out of vertical alignment and about .75 out of front to back alignment. I had to use a bit of persuation with a come-a-long to lift one side and another to pull other side down and a bit of prying to get them aligned)
Get the splice plate at the top in place and both bolts installed. Snug these a little bit.
Tighten all the bolts/nuts into the back of the tractor, tighten the connector plate, tighten the splice plate at the top.
Torque all of the bolts as required by the instructions.
Hello Carroll,
I'm a recent Kubota L185 owner. I had to change the steering box because the seal at the steering wheel lets water in after sitting outside. Otherwise, a very fun first tractor!
Good Luck!
-Al
I'm a recent Kubota L185 owner. I had to change the steering box because the seal at the steering wheel lets water in after sitting outside. Otherwise, a very fun first tractor!
Good Luck!
-Al
Hi All I just found a sticker on the bottom of my steering column that said drain. It is just above the steering box.
I saw a small hole and placed a nail into it to clear out any accumulated dirt.
NOW to add gear oil into the steering box use an 8 point 11mm 3/8 socket and a 3/8 breaker bar to get pipe plug out.
Put the 3/8 end of the socket over the plug and use the breaker bar in the 11mm side You will have to re-position the bar several times to unscrew/screw in plug.
3/8 socket wrench is too tall and hits bottom of fuel tank.
Then to put in gear oil if needed I use a cut short CLEAR plastic flex straw (CLEAR so you do not suck in a mouthful of oil) and a 1 once dose cup with the gear oil in it.
I suck oil into straw and the squeeze straw to hold oil in straw.
I asked wife to hold flashlight from other side so I could see.
Insert flex straw into hole and unsqueeze straw to drain.
Fill if needed to just under bottom of hole.
NOW in the future you may not be able to get plastic straws so I have 99 left that I will sell for a buck apiece>>>Haaaaa
Hope this was not too detailed.
David
Next day UPDATE SKIP THE BREAKER BAR
You can use a modern Craftsman 3/8 ratchet as it is thinner than my old SK wrench.
I would still use the socket upside down to fully engage square plug.
I saw a small hole and placed a nail into it to clear out any accumulated dirt.
NOW to add gear oil into the steering box use an 8 point 11mm 3/8 socket and a 3/8 breaker bar to get pipe plug out.
Put the 3/8 end of the socket over the plug and use the breaker bar in the 11mm side You will have to re-position the bar several times to unscrew/screw in plug.
3/8 socket wrench is too tall and hits bottom of fuel tank.
Then to put in gear oil if needed I use a cut short CLEAR plastic flex straw (CLEAR so you do not suck in a mouthful of oil) and a 1 once dose cup with the gear oil in it.
I suck oil into straw and the squeeze straw to hold oil in straw.
I asked wife to hold flashlight from other side so I could see.
Insert flex straw into hole and unsqueeze straw to drain.
Fill if needed to just under bottom of hole.
NOW in the future you may not be able to get plastic straws so I have 99 left that I will sell for a buck apiece>>>Haaaaa
Hope this was not too detailed.
David
Next day UPDATE SKIP THE BREAKER BAR
You can use a modern Craftsman 3/8 ratchet as it is thinner than my old SK wrench.
I would still use the socket upside down to fully engage square plug.
Last edited: