Well I have been trying to get my kubota L185 to run ever since I replaced the steering sector gear box. I bought the tractor a few weeks ago, it had a lot of slack in the steering wheel. I ordered a new steering gear box and installed it a couple of days ago. As you know if you have ever done this before you have to remove the steering wheel, dash unit, and fuel tank. After replacing the gear box I re-installed the fuel tank and decided I would try and crank it before re-installing the dash and steering wheel. I fired her up with no problem, let it run for maybe 10 sec. Shut it down and installed the dash and steering wheel. Now it cranks over but will not start! Battery is good and strong, smokes out the exhaust which tells me it getting fuel. Someone way before me has disconnected switches and other wiring connections under the dash which it was running without being connected when I bought the tractor. i'm a retired Maintenance Mechanic from a Chemical Plant and very mechanically inclined. Now wiring is another story altogether, so any help will be greatly appreciated. Surely there is a by-pass wire I can connect from the battery to get it cranked so I can move it to my shop, at least I hope there is! Thanks guys and HELP PLEASE!!
Kubota L185 cranks but will not start?
- Thread starter pinetuck
- Start date
May have some air since disconnecting/reconnecting fuel tank, air now has moved to pump, crack fuel line at pump to ensure good clear flow, re tighten, then crack injectors and crank till good flow, then retighten.
And ensure stop lever is pushed all the way in if it has one.
And ensure stop lever is pushed all the way in if it has one.
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I agree, you probably ran it just long enough to get the air to your pump. Loosen the line at your pump and get the fuel to this point and it will probably start.
Checked at inlet to injector pump and had good flow of diesel. Broke lines @ fuel injectors and had little spurts of diesel fuel. Shouldn't it spray out? I thought the discharge pressure on the injector pump was pretty high PSI? Anyway, I sprayed diesel fuel into the air inlet and still will not start, even though it cranks over fine? By the way thanks guys for the help!
When you're bleeding the air be sure to have your throttle wide open. Allows for more fuel to flow.
If you have fuel (without air), a clean air filter, good battery to turn over the engine with a couple hundred RPM your engine should start..(oh you need good compression also)...but that has not changed.
This means the only wiring needed is power to starter, and glow plugs if you are in cold weather. The wiring you can work out later. That will be for the lights, charging the battery etc.
If you have fuel (without air), a clean air filter, good battery to turn over the engine with a couple hundred RPM your engine should start..(oh you need good compression also)...but that has not changed.
This means the only wiring needed is power to starter, and glow plugs if you are in cold weather. The wiring you can work out later. That will be for the lights, charging the battery etc.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Here is how I have bleed lines on my L185
I assume you have opened the petcock at the bottom the tank
Start at the filter and unscrew it a bit to insure you have fuel flow.
Let it flow a second and tighten filter back up.
Move to fuel pump and there is a bleed bolt/valve to break open (hold the large hex behind the fuel line)
Let it run a bit then tighten back up, fairly tight.
I usually see if it will start now (see below)
If it doesn't start, crack open (slightly loosen) the lines to the injectors
Open throttle, pull out decompression knob and crank for a few seconds.
Fluid should flow out the lines.
Repeat a few times to make sure that the lines are full of fuel.
Tighten fuel lines.
Start tractor.
I use this procedure for starting.
Adjust throttle a little above idle
Turn key on
Turn start knob to left to heat glow plugs
Hold for 15-20 seconds
Pull out the decompression knob
Turn start knob to right (starter should crank)
Allow to spin up to speed
Push in decompression knob
Tractor starts
My tractor seems harder to start if the throttle is set high
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I assume you have opened the petcock at the bottom the tank
Start at the filter and unscrew it a bit to insure you have fuel flow.
Let it flow a second and tighten filter back up.
Move to fuel pump and there is a bleed bolt/valve to break open (hold the large hex behind the fuel line)
Let it run a bit then tighten back up, fairly tight.
I usually see if it will start now (see below)
If it doesn't start, crack open (slightly loosen) the lines to the injectors
Open throttle, pull out decompression knob and crank for a few seconds.
Fluid should flow out the lines.
Repeat a few times to make sure that the lines are full of fuel.
Tighten fuel lines.
Start tractor.
I use this procedure for starting.
Adjust throttle a little above idle
Turn key on
Turn start knob to left to heat glow plugs
Hold for 15-20 seconds
Pull out the decompression knob
Turn start knob to right (starter should crank)
Allow to spin up to speed
Push in decompression knob
Tractor starts
My tractor seems harder to start if the throttle is set high
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If dash is removed/loose there is a chance the decompression knob may have been pulled, and isnt fully returned. Check lever on valve cover near front of engine. Mine was sticky from lack uf use and bent cable. Could be partially pulled.
It seems, to me at least, when bleeding air from a diesel system it always takes longer to get the air out then I think it should.
When I've felt I had good fuel flow and it not start, I bleed it again. Sometimes I've went through this process 5 or 6 times. And then that sucker fires off...and you have a hallelujah
break down!
Patience is a virtue.
When I've felt I had good fuel flow and it not start, I bleed it again. Sometimes I've went through this process 5 or 6 times. And then that sucker fires off...and you have a hallelujah
break down!
Patience is a virtue.
The decompression knob was removed from the dash by someone who owned the tractor previously. I checked the lever on the front of the engine and it was open, after closing it fired right up! Thanks to all you guys who responded with suggestions! This is a great site to get knowledge and information on Kubota Tractors!and it was open!
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
That's great news.
I suggest you get the parts to fix the decompression knob. It will really help you out in the future. Parts should be relatively cheap.
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I suggest you get the parts to fix the decompression knob. It will really help you out in the future. Parts should be relatively cheap.
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Russell is correct. When you order the decompression knob you will get the knob (that is attached to the cable) and the housing. A dealer item, may cost $20...but save you when starting in cold weather.