Kubota Hazard Flasher Unit vs CF14

[CCox]

Does anyone have experience in replacing a 3 prong Kubota flasher unit (in my case #35170-33700 @ $60+) for a 3 prong CF14 Electronic Flasher (suitable for LED hazard lights)?

My B8200 schematic shows the White/Red coming from the fuse, Black to Ground (Earth), and Red/Yellow going to the Hazard Switch ($23+) and then to Green feeding the hazard lamps.

A CF14 schematic is E to Ground (Earth), B to positive power (fuse in my case), and the L for load or Lamp.

My thought is to make insulated jumpers to go from my tractor wiring harness to the CF14 so that I do not need to cut wiring, solder or splice.

Is there any reason this should not work? Technology has changed a lot in 35 years and I can't justify a $60 Kubota hazard flasher for a modern electronic flasher for $9. I am thinking of installing an illuminated hazard switch similar to a signal-stat so that I know the hazards are on. My original rotary hazard switch is non-functional and although its one I can disassemble and clean, I am not sure it would be long lasting.

Thoughts and comments please.

 

[GeoHorn]

For an investment of $9 it will either work or not.
I’d be most concerned of it’s amp/watt rating since you say it’s designed for LED. Are your hazard lamps LED?

 

[CCox]

My old hazards were rusted and sockets heavily corroded so I took them off and welded the holes closed. Same with the tail lights, but they were gone before I got the tractor.

My plan is to mount amber and red LED lamps to the ROPS so they are higher and amber can be seen front and back. I'm replacing my incandescent headlights too. Fabricating a steel panel and cutting in recessed LED lamps there too once I determine the angle of the panel in the hood. Last will be an auxiliary circuit for LEDs on the PTO, MMM and maybe a small one on below the dash to illuminate the shifter and other controls. I ordered my relay and switches this morning so I should get it installed by the weekend.

 

[GeoHorn]

OK... so you’re not stuck on a repair-problem... You’re doing extensive modifications on an old tractor and only telling us about it.
You’ll figure it out.

 

[CCox]

OK... so you’re not stuck on a repair-problem... You’re doing extensive modifications on an old tractor and only telling us about it.
You’ll figure it out.

I received my flasher relay and hazard switch. These I obtained from Amazon.

The flasher is a CF14 LED flasher with 3 terminals. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAU66V4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The hazard is a 19mm push button type with illumination. I wanted one that flashed when pressed on. It came with a five wire harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MK22NGB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 5 switch wires are:
NC (Yellow)
NO (Blue)
C (Green)
+ (Red)
- (Black)

The Flasher terminals are:
E (negative or Earth)
L (Load)
B (Battery or +)

My wiring harness is shown above.

My connections are:

Green on the switch to the White/Red tracer wire from the fuse. (This originally fed the factory flasher box).

Blue on the switch to the Flasher B+ terminal.

Red on the switch to the Flasher L (Load) terminal.

Yellow on the switch was unused and I capped it off.

Black to a gauge mounting stud for a good ground.

Flasher Negative got a dedicated ground to the same mounting stud, as did the ground wires on the harness that fed the factory flasher unit.

I also replaced the rotary light switch for my headlights and taillights, plus ran an additional switch for implement lights.

I will upload photos as soon as possible.

 

[CCox]

Female terminal ends were covered with heat shrink to prevent arcing or inadvertent contact with grounds or hots.

The dash pic came from a video I was not able to upload. The hazard button flashes with the amber lights.

 

[Jim L.]

Well, that's pretty nifty. By the way, the flasher is marked for 20 amps, which means that I would not push more than 10 amps through it.

 

[CCox]

I rebuilt my hazard lamps with new sockets, bolts, 1156 LED lamps, cleaned and refurbed the gaskets and polished the lenses. Did the same with my headlamps, separated the glass from the housing, painted the housing interiors with a reflective silver coating, cleaned the glass interior and reassembled with new with new sockets. I used single element sockets and 1156 LED lamps for the headlamps since I had not gone with a high low switch on the dash. Tailights were replaced with 16" red LED trailer light bar sets mounted on the ROPS. I made brackets for the hazards to mount them on the ROPS so they'd be more visible when I am on the road. I did not use factory parts because of the expense. Restored and refurbished on a budget.
Headlights flicker due to the dymo issue and I would like to know if this could or should be corrected by direct wiring the lighting circuits to the battery?

Also, my flashers stopped after a few hours of use while plowing snow. Would this also be a dymo (AC) issue with my CF14 flasher unit, a coincidental flasher failure or something else? I need to pull the dash apart to get to testing so prior to getting into this.

Any recommendations from those who know electrical matters? Thanks.