Kubota B6000 charging problem

[Jesús]

Here's the wiring diagram for the B6000 and a picture of what it looked like on my one that had the wiring in ok condition. I'm not sure of what the underside of it should look like or how to test it though. I'd start with putting it back in and cleaning the terminals/rings on the wires that attach to it and see if it makes a difference. View attachment 160564
View attachment 160565

 

[Jesús]

Thank you very much for your help, it seems that the light switch has a lot to do with the battery charging process, I have two loose cables, one white and one blue, let's see where each one goes... the diagram is not completely clear to me but it does help me understand how it works, if you could see the connections of your tractor better I would greatly appreciate it (if possible in each component, I mean the switches). Thank you very much.

 

[Jesús]

wow that's neat !! late 60's 'tech' !! 2 TO-66case(?) power diodes by the look of it. A LOT of corrosion that needs to be addressed. Looks like the cases of the diode are NOT supposed to be grounded( touching the case) so a real good cleaning is in order along with checking with ohmmeter.

copied and zooomed up the photos. Still neat !!! Simple full wave bridge rectifer.. NO regulation. Actually just 4 'press fit' diodes, 2 into the case, other two into ISOLATED mounts. In the 1st picture the 'studs' upper left and center bottom go to the dynamo AC wires, the center right is the +12 output to battery. Actually it'd be enjoyable to take apart and refurbish, check the diodes. Old skool....NO computer !!!

By the way, how do I remove the rust from the box without damaging it?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

The case appears to be aluminum, so soft wire brushes work well. You need to clean all the 'buildup' around the diodes and the 'studs'. I'd take it all apart, replace all the screws and insulating washers. Check each diode to be sure it's good. Then, after spending 1/2 day at that, go into my parts department, grab a 100V 50A diode bridge, bolt it to a heatsink, and wire it up to mate with the tractor wiring....but... Seeing how old the unit is, I have to question how good the wiring on the tractor is. One of those 'slippery slopes' - 'while we're here' deals.

It is possible all diodes are fine, be nice to restore to original condition.....

 

[Russell King]

@jesus your statement reminded me that some of the older tractors used AC voltage from the generator to directly power the headlights. I am not 100% sure but that looks like why the generator wires goes to the light switch directly and only one wire goes to the rectifier.

I will ask @GreensvilleJay to look at the wiring schematic and verify that is the case for your tractor. I think you can effectively ignore two of the thee wires out of the dynamo. I believe that the Br (Brown = marron) is the only one that would charge the battery, if the rectifier is working correctly.

@GreensvilleJay - do you agree with the above? Or just tell @Jesús how the generator is supposed to charge the battery.

 

[trevoroni]

They're not the greatest but here's what I have.
Regarding the AC headlights that's what I thought too but North Idaho Wolfman says they're not and he's the expert on all things Orange.
I used a wire brush, electrical contact cleaner and a small fine tooth file to clean the really corroded parts.
If you've got time to read you can learn some of the things I've learned about these in my thread Here.

I had to solder that loose wire with a ring terminal onto the switch to get the headlights working.

 

[trevoroni]

If you're headlight switch is bad, the previous owner of my 2nd one replaced it with a couple of generic switches. They can be seen in my thread somewhere around page 8.
But with all old tractors who knows what's been done in the last 50 years by the previous owners.
First step is study the electrical diagram and trace your wires and see if they match up.