Kubota B3030 Inner Tie Rod &PS Cylinder Removal

[Cernst]

The left (driver perspective) inner tie rod is seized in the hyd PS shaft on my B3030 cab tractor. I cannot hold the left polished ps shaft with a 22mm thin wrench as designed and suggested. Attempts to hold the right side inner tie rod knuckle when loosening the left tie rod knuckle loosens the right side tie rod knuckle. Any suggestions as to securing the polished ps shaft without damaging the polished shaft?

Next I attempted to remove the ps cylinder, thinking I might be able to secure the polished ps shaft in a soft jawed vice. I first removed both hyd lines and fittings. Well, after hours of effort I was able to removed the seized "C" clips. Now I am trying to remove the hyd ps cylinder but the end caps (part #20 in the Kubota parts diagram) are seized in the tractor front axle cylinder housing brackets. I have tried penetrating fluid, driving out with punch and pipe , taping +heat to the ps cylinder bracket. I cannot break loose the seized end caps. The cylinder rotate but will not move laterally. It appears the the cylinder needs to be removed from the left side since there are openings in the bracket for the hyd hose ports to fit through. Any hints, special tools or secrets to removing the ps cylinder?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You need the right wrench to hold the cylinder, here are a options:
Another trick is to smack a wrench on the joint side to break them loose.

https://www.amazon.com/HARFINGTON-U-Shaped-Blackening-Automotive-Furniture/dp/B0FKFWV7YY/ref=sr_1_21_sspa?adgrpid=186114899189&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.mAxeQEaNTEPx4ov6oD1tuAMgaPWMBcZE9gH9oRJ7C0qsOTS65bweKHYKPGFc9s8NomPOrxEYMu7zL1DrE8oxRU1spcnqBnVMjOi1raf33QriLnhRBGO55-id9KfvPzvwjQ2lIKmB16_BKaKTpsXSVBEGPORPLYR2bZUuGZXBkeZeT2tVYL8BQfO6rjXZnhqMbYPNfKRYsCjwXRUUxaJo2gnMrsbPCrbDXYJEPZKGeYXCvy0kA4hoBts7fKNpw66mHYt1f4mrD3h6SKcWm56KWj4Xo7zmheEp0Jn3ZXILllU.NTjw1hZAqTiphA2vmZizU91GZc7APcvMB0Md-kMGtxY&dib_tag=se&hvadid=779826477791&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9029659&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=5765976831095234112--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5765976831095234112&hvtargid=kwd-300459878620&hydadcr=24659_13858416_8150&keywords=22mm%2Bthin%2Bwrench&mcid=7b89e4e8262f38d09390ea29da167854&qid=1762926265&sr=8-21-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1

BZBMGMO 22MM Crowfoot Nut Wrench Opening,1/2" Drive Crowfoot Wrench - Amazon.com

BZBMGMO 22MM Crowfoot Nut Wrench Opening,1/2" Drive Crowfoot Wrench - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[Cernst]

You need the right wrench to hold the cylinder, here are a options:
Another trick is to smack a wrench on the joint side to break them loose.

https://www.amazon.com/HARFINGTON-U-Shaped-Blackening-Automotive-Furniture/dp/B0FKFWV7YY/ref=sr_1_21_sspa?adgrpid=186114899189&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.mAxeQEaNTEPx4ov6oD1tuAMgaPWMBcZE9gH9oRJ7C0qsOTS65bweKHYKPGFc9s8NomPOrxEYMu7zL1DrE8oxRU1spcnqBnVMjOi1raf33QriLnhRBGO55-id9KfvPzvwjQ2lIKmB16_BKaKTpsXSVBEGPORPLYR2bZUuGZXBkeZeT2tVYL8BQfO6rjXZnhqMbYPNfKRYsCjwXRUUxaJo2gnMrsbPCrbDXYJEPZKGeYXCvy0kA4hoBts7fKNpw66mHYt1f4mrD3h6SKcWm56KWj4Xo7zmheEp0Jn3ZXILllU.NTjw1hZAqTiphA2vmZizU91GZc7APcvMB0Md-kMGtxY&dib_tag=se&hvadid=779826477791&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9029659&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=5765976831095234112--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5765976831095234112&hvtargid=kwd-300459878620&hydadcr=24659_13858416_8150&keywords=22mm%2Bthin%2Bwrench&mcid=7b89e4e8262f38d09390ea29da167854&qid=1762926265&sr=8-21-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&th=1

BZBMGMO 22MM Crowfoot Nut Wrench Opening,1/2" Drive Crowfoot Wrench - Amazon.com

BZBMGMO 22MM Crowfoot Nut Wrench Opening,1/2" Drive Crowfoot Wrench - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Thanks Wolfman, I purchased a "thin" 22 mm wrench and that wrench sprung the jaws when attempting to loosen the inner tie rod from the ps cylinder rod. I then cut down a Snap On wrench and that too would not hold even though the wrench jaws did not spring open. I'm reluctant to heat the posished ps cylinder rod too much for fear of damaging the seals inside the cylinder. Any other suggestions and do you have advice on how to remove the seized ps cylinder from the axle brackets? My tractor is only 20 YO and is in great shape. I can't believe those parts are seized to the extent they appear to be! Am I missing something? Thanks again.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That cylinder will only come out of the left hand side.
The cylinder needs to be rotated so the hydraulic fittings come out the slot in the left hand bracket.

You can take the cylinder apart in place (not easy to do) to get the rod out and on a bench.
The gland ends are just pushed into the cylinder.

 

[whitetiger]

Thanks Wolfman, I purchased a "thin" 22 mm wrench and that wrench sprung the jaws when attempting to loosen the inner tie rod from the ps cylinder rod. I then cut down a Snap On wrench and that too would not hold even though the wrench jaws did not spring open. I'm reluctant to heat the posished ps cylinder rod too much for fear of damaging the seals inside the cylinder. Any other suggestions and do you have advice on how to remove the seized ps cylinder from the axle brackets? My tractor is only 20 YO and is in great shape. I can't believe those parts are seized to the extent they appear to be! Am I missing something? Thanks again.

Those joints are lock-tited when assembled. You can safely heat the end of the chrome shaft you want to remove using a handheld propane torch. I use this method all the time, and it has never failed.

I turn the steering wheel to expose several inches of shaft sticking out of the cylinder, heat the shaft for approx 25-30 seconds, and unscrew it using a wrench on each of the inner tie rod ends.

If the opposite side unscrews again, unscrew it to expose the threads and loctite them. Retighten it and let it set for a couple of hours for the lock-tite to set. Try it again. Make sure to lock-tite the inner tie rod ends when you reassemble the unit.