Kubota B, L, etc. oil

[RalphVa]

I went searching for ACEA and API oil classification equivalents because the M1 0w30 ESP oil I bought for both the Kubota and the Isuzu is rated ACEA C3. ACEA is a European spec for oils. The Kubota manuals follow API specs. In the manuals, they make some sort of crazy recommendation to not use CJ-4 oil.

In further research, I found an Bob the Oil Guy's chat where someone brought up the fact that current Kubota oils that you'd be able to buy at almost any Kubota dealership are CJ-4 rated.

Someone pointed out that it's probably Kubota conservatism in having that statement in their manuals about not using CJ-4 oils, e.g. made before they started stocking CJ-4 oils. Their manuals are basically out of date. What they're selling doesn't match what they've written.

Back to my ACEA M1. The C3 classification is apparently the same as API's CJ-4.

So, I'm still planning to change to this at 50 hours. I had it in my JD 2025R when I sold it with 70 hours on the oil. Before this, I was using VW diesel oil by Castrol in 5w30 because it is what I was going 10k mile changes on for nearly 7 years. With VW $ from taking back my VW TDI, I bought some Castrol 5w30 and was using in my JDs and the Isuzu generator driver. It's rated VW 504 or some such, probably something like a CF-CH API oil and an ACEA B2, etc. Post VW $ and my own $, I went with M1 0w30 ESP because I know from my 31 years experience in the lube oil business that M1 is the best (better than the Group III other stuff allowed to be called "synthetic"). Our research always showed it to be the best.

I'd really hate to be an oil guy trying to keep track of all this stuff.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I went searching for ACEA and API oil classification equivalents because the M1 0w30 ESP oil I bought for both the Kubota and the Isuzu is rated ACEA C3. ACEA is a European spec for oils. The Kubota manuals follow API specs. In the manuals, they make some sort of crazy recommendation to not use CJ-4 oil.

In further research, I found an Bob the Oil Guy's chat where someone brought up the fact that current Kubota oils that you'd be able to buy at almost any Kubota dealership are CJ-4 rated.

Someone pointed out that it's probably Kubota conservatism in having that statement in their manuals about not using CJ-4 oils, e.g. made before they started stocking CJ-4 oils. Their manuals are basically out of date. What they're selling doesn't match what they've written.

Back to my ACEA M1. The C3 classification is apparently the same as API's CJ-4.

So, I'm still planning to change to this at 50 hours. I had it in my JD 2025R when I sold it with 70 hours on the oil. Before this, I was using VW diesel oil by Castrol in 5w30 because it is what I was going 10k mile changes on for nearly 7 years. With VW $ from taking back my VW TDI, I bought some Castrol 5w30 and was using in my JDs and the Isuzu generator driver. It's rated VW 504 or some such, probably something like a CF-CH API oil and an ACEA B2, etc. Post VW $ and my own $, I went with M1 0w30 ESP because I know from my 31 years experience in the lube oil business that M1 is the best (better than the Group III other stuff allowed to be called "synthetic"). Our research always showed it to be the best.

I'd really hate to be an oil guy trying to keep track of all this stuff.

Its really not that complicated.

API CJ-4 is a heavy duty diesel oil classification.

The ACEA C sequences are for catalyst compatible light duty gasoline and diesel oils.

The ACEA E sequences are for heavy duty diesel engine oils.

ACEA E6 would be the old equivalent to API CJ-4

Now look at the data sheets for some heavy duty diesel engine oils:

M1 Turbo Diesel is API CJ-4/CK-4 and ACEA E7/E9.

Mobil Delvac ESP is API CJ-4/CK-4 and ACEA E7/E9

Rotella T6 is API CK-4 and ACEA E9

Chevron Delo is API CK-4 and ACEA E9

Dan

 

[top gnome]

Its really not that complicated.

API CJ-4 is a heavy duty diesel oil classification.

The ACEA C sequences are for catalyst compatible light duty gasoline and diesel oils.

The ACEA E sequences are for heavy duty diesel engine oils.

ACEA E6 would be the old equivalent to API CJ-4

Now look at the data sheets for some heavy duty diesel engine oils:

M1 Turbo Diesel is API CJ-4/CK-5 and ACEA E7/E9.

Mobil Delvac ESP is API CJ-4/CK-5 and ACEA E7/E9

Rotella T6 is API CK-5 and ACEA E9

Chevron Delo is API CK-5 and ACEA E9

Dan

So are all those oils ok to use in a Kubota?

 

[ACDII]

The way I see it, if they meet or exceed the minimum requirements, heck yeah they are OK to use. The main thing about Diesel oil it the ability to suspend particulates in order to be filtered out, and not sink to the bottom of the pan or top of the head to turn into sludge. Everything else is in the additive packages to prevent wear. It's the weight that is also important, a good quality CJ-4 in the proper weight, even if its from Mystic brand or Walmart, will protect the engine. If in doubt, have it sampled by Blackstone.

I prefer M1 myself since it is readily available and what I use in my B2410, and sometimes my F150, though I use Motorcraft whenever I can get it. I use Motorcraft oil and filters in both my F150 and F350, if good enough for Ford to put in at the factory, good enough for me while I own it. I use Farm and Fleet full synthetic in my small gas engines like the JD X500, the wood chipper, pressure washer, 2 generators, and snow thrower. Pressure washer going on 20 years now, starts on the first pull, Chipper a few years, same thing, first pull.

Cant say the same about the gas, too many times I had to remove the carb bowls to clean out junk from that damned ethanol, even when I run them dry and use Stabil.

 

[ddavis83864]

To each their own but I am always confused by these oil/filter/other consumables for tractors/cars/trucks/motorcycles etc.

With prices for everything these days being what they are (everything is high) why not just buy the Kubota branded lubricants and filters and know that the exact manufacturer recommended product has been used. Particularly if the tractor is new, then if a warranty issue comes up at least Kubota can't claim the issue was cause by a potentially inferior product being used.

Just seems like a lot of the time between the time and energy spent trying to research a "compatible/equivalent" product along with the cost differential the overall savings ends up being negligible.

 

[TheOldHokie]

So are all those oils ok to use in a Kubota?

I would certainly think so. They are all CK-4 oils which is what Kubota specifies. I wonder what Kubota specifies in the European and Asian markets.....

Dan

 

[RalphVa]

The way I see it, if they meet or exceed the minimum requirements, heck yeah they are OK to use. The main thing about Diesel oil it the ability to suspend particulates in order to be filtered out, and not sink to the bottom of the pan or top of the head to turn into sludge. Everything else is in the additive packages to prevent wear. It's the weight that is also important, a good quality CJ-4 in the proper weight, even if its from Mystic brand or Walmart, will protect the engine. If in doubt, have it sampled by Blackstone.

I prefer M1 myself since it is readily available and what I use in my B2410, and sometimes my F150, though I use Motorcraft whenever I can get it. I use Motorcraft oil and filters in both my F150 and F350, if good enough for Ford to put in at the factory, good enough for me while I own it. I use Farm and Fleet full synthetic in my small gas engines like the JD X500, the wood chipper, pressure washer, 2 generators, and snow thrower. Pressure washer going on 20 years now, starts on the first pull, Chipper a few years, same thing, first pull.

Cant say the same about the gas, too many times I had to remove the carb bowls to clean out junk from that damned ethanol, even when I run them dry and use Stabil.

I've stopped carb problems many times with Seafoam. Bought some and put it into the Isuzu's tank now.

 

[ACDII]

I've stopped carb problems many times with Seafoam. Bought some and put it into the Isuzu's tank now.

The part that bugs me is that even though I run the carb dry, it only has fuel when running, and yet there are crystalline deposits in the bowl. Happened twice on my Champion generator, and once on one of the other engines. I can tell it needs cleaning when it no longer runs off choke after a minute running.

 

[top gnome]

I've stopped carb problems many times with Seafoam. Bought some and put it into the Isuzu's tank now.

yep seafoam can do some good stuff. used it to improve the way gas engines run in several lawn tractors and the farmall. seems to take the carbon off of the valves but not sure how it works just that it does.