Kubota Advice: Buy and Fix up L5030HST, or Get Newer TYM?

Mr Haney

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L3710, ZD326S
May 23, 2022
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The more I learn about machinery, the more I realize I do not want emissions gadgets, a computer controller, or any similar electronic junk. People say these contraptions are reliable, but on the other hand, the web is jammed with other people complaining about how they have failed and ended up sidelining tractors for months. Those stories (and my own mower controller story) are true, so clearly, gadgetry does cause a lot of terrible problems. And my Kubota dealer has a turnaround time of over a month, so any failure is a major pain.

On top of that, I do not trust manufacturers to continue making electronic parts, and I know full well that even if they do, the cost will eventually go through the roof, because that's what always happens. Ask me about the $450 muffler on my 1991 lawn tractor and the $340 controller on my mower.

I would like to buy only one more tractor before I die. I don't want to buy a new tractor every 5 years, and I don't want to have to deal with sourcing discontinued emissions parts or computer controllers 20 years from now. I want something reliable that will not need electronic parts or weird emissions parts. It's bad enough to be concerned about mechanical parts.

I have been thinking I might buy a used Kubota HST L5030. They don't have all that junk on them. But they're all pretty old, so expensive work might be needed.

It looks like most used tractors made more recently will run at least $25,000. For $10K, I can get an L5030 (needs loader) that could need a lot of restoration. I think I would rather spend $10K now and $15K later on restoration, and get a tractor I can keep until I die, than $25K now on a newer machine that may be a source of total misery in 10 years.

I have never bought an old tractor and paid to have it fixed up right. I have no idea what I might end up spending. Is my math reasonable?

I am handy, but I'm not the guy who splits tractors in his driveway. I would have to pay for major work like engine rebuilds. I can repack a cylinder and so on, but there is a limit.
 
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fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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The more I learn about machinery, the more I realize I do not want emissions gadgets, a computer controller, or any similar electronic junk. People say these contraptions are reliable, but on the other hand, the web is jammed with other people complaining about how they have failed and ended up sidelining tractors for months. Those stories (and my own mower controller story) are true, so clearly, gadgetry does cause a lot of terrible problems. And my Kubota dealer has a turnaround time of over a month, so any failure is a major pain.

On top of that, I do not trust manufacturers to continue making electronic parts, and I know full well that even if they do, the cost will eventually go through the roof, because that's what always happens. Ask me about the $450 muffler on my 1991 lawn tractor and the $340 controller on my mower.

I would like to buy only one more tractor before I die. I don't want to buy a new tractor every 5 years, and I don't want to have to deal with sourcing discontinued emissions parts or computer controllers 20 years from now. I want something reliable that will not need electronic parts or weird emissions parts. It's bad enough to be concerned about mechanical parts.

I have been thinking I might buy a used Kubota HST L5030. They don't have all that junk on them. But they're all pretty old, so expensive work might be needed.

It looks like most used tractors made more recently will run at least $25,000. For $10K, I can get an L5030 (needs loader) that could need a lot of restoration. I think I would rather spend $10K now and $15K later on restoration, and get a tractor I can keep until I die, than $25K now on a newer machine that may be a source of total misery in 10 years.

I have never bought an old tractor and paid to have it fixed up right. I have no idea what I might end up spending. Is my math reasonable?

I am handy, but I'm not the guy who splits tractors in his driveway. I would have to pay for major work like engine rebuilds. I can repack a cylinder and so on, but there is a limit.
You need to spend a LOT of time looking for what you want!
I looked for nearly two full years, before I found my L48TLB.
Bought it when I saw it!.

Older gentleman with Parkinson's, original owner, 350 miles away., thirteen years old, 251 hours.
They are out there, but you must be fast!
You need to spend a LOT of time looking for what you want!
 
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D2Cat

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L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
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I don't see where you mentioned what you are going to use the tractor for. Are you needing a certain size for a certain job?

I've bought a few tractor from off in a distance. The buyer needs to know exactly what he is looking for, model, options, tires, transmission, etc Then when looking you quickly learn asking prices and be to determine when to get seriously interested. Know what your spending maximum is for various features (like loader included).

I've always been able to find reliable individuals to haul what I've bought home, if needed. Considering cost of hiring a haul, don't let distance be a detriment to the purchase.

Here's an example of a nice tractor that fits as you describe. The Lxx40 series tractors are the last series before the emission add ons began.

This is Springfield, Mo. area, a few hundred miles from me, but if I was wanting a tractor that fit my description I'd inquire.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:72edc1b6-bc4f-4663-a78c-02c0a7176b49
 

Mr Haney

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Equipment
L3710, ZD326S
May 23, 2022
279
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FL
I already have a bigger tractor than that.

I use my tractor for moving cut-up trees, so HST is a must. I want better than 40 HP at the PTO. The L5030 is about the smallest I would want.
 

PaulL

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B2601
Jul 17, 2017
2,565
1,526
113
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How many years do the actuarial tables say you need?

Kubota have a very good track record of providing parts for 20 years. So, if you need 20 years or less, buy a brand new Kubota of a common model that thousands of other people have, and treat it well. You'll have all the support and parts you need for as long as you plan to be alive.

If that's not financially viable, then I think you can go a long way with a 10 year old tractor that's high volume. Parts or solutions will be available for them for a long time, because there's lots of them around. Someone in China will make a replacement part if Kubota stop making the parts, but again, Kubota are pretty good. And often someone will make a "delete" part if there's no other option on an older tractor.

If it was me, I'd be chasing a Grand-L. They're really excellent machines. I think they all have electronics and DPF, but that's part of what makes them so good. The transmission in them is really trick - it does lots of cool stuff, but it does it with electronics.

Alternatively, getting into an MX or lower end M would be excellent.

If you're set on a 5030, they're a pretty robust machine. Why do you think they're likely to need a full rebuild? People are running 40 year old Kubotas that have never had a rebuild (my father in law had an old 7100 I think). If you're rebuilding I think it's more likely the machine has been abused somehow than that it's just old - they shouldn't break just because of age.
 
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JasonW

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Jan 29, 2015
473
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Al
Based on your recent ZD purchase and working on it, only you can decide you want do to. Spend a little more and not have to work/restore it for the next 10 years.
You said the L5030 doesn’t have a loader? Would you need one? Probably not available anymore and if it is you would be money ahead buying one with a loader.

Everyone has a limit of lower price/more work on anything. Houses and vehicles come to mind.

You could look at the 40 series grand L’s. They are the last of the Pre emission years.
 

Mr Haney

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L3710, ZD326S
May 23, 2022
279
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I don't want a new tractor. I don't want to spend $50,000 and lose the 15% instant depreciation as it leaves the dealership, and I don't want to have the gadgetry fail, as explained above.

It has to be and L5030 or bigger. I already have 38 horsepower; that's what I want to upgrade from. It has to have HST.

As I said, most of what I do is moving cut trees, so I need to be able to lift a lot. Apart from that, I want to run a flail mower without pushing 38 horses to the limit.

I looked at TYM, but the front wheels sometimes fall off, the front axles fail, they have ball bearings in the rear axle, and the service stories are the stuff of horror movies. With a new TYM T574, I could discard the emissions junk and never worry about it again, but I don't want to end up with a disabled tractor sitting in my yard for a year while I wait for repairs.

It looks like John Deeres are easier to find, but I have concerns about the difficulty of working on them.
 

PaulL

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B2601
Jul 17, 2017
2,565
1,526
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You can't believe everything you read on the internet!!

If you want to lift logs, you need a loader. Any older machine without a loader is a problem, it's far more expensive to add a loader after you buy it than it is to just buy one with a loader. And, of course, that's why they're cheaper without a loader.

If you're looking older, then it's L or M. If you want HST, then I think older Ms (even newer Ms) don't have it. So, L it is.

I think your options are L5030, L5040, maybe L5060 (not sure about emissions), L5240, L5740, maybe L6060. It looks to me that the Lxx60 have EGR, so it's not full emissions but it's some.

I'd be surprised if most of them didn't have electronic controllers of some sort, they're all direct injected.

Just a case of waiting for one to come along, or looking at another brand.


1752632592797.png
 
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Shawn T. W

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'05 L5030 HSTC - '21 MF GC 1725 MB - '18 JD Z960M Z-Trak
Dec 9, 2024
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SW Missouri Ozarks
The MX 5100 has an EGR, and HST ... Which is roughly the same size as the L5030 I recently bought, which doesn't have EGR!

The older MX 5000 doesn't have the EGR, but also wasn't offered with a HST!

Edit to add:
The older In-direct Injection (IDI) diesels run a mechanical fuel injection pump, and a much lower pressure, as much as 10 times lower than the newer Direct Injection (DI) systems which are computer controlled, and are called ”common rail”.

The newer bigger “DI” diesels tend to be turbo and require a computer to run them, but are much more efficient and cleaner burning, usually have DPF and if over 75 HP, DEF ...

Here is a pretty good explanation of the two different style of diesel engines … https://4btengines.com/indirect-injection-vs-direct-injection-engines/

I don't want a computer in my tractor, so I didn't buy one! I do drive a 2026 Kenworth for a living, it is run by a computer and sensors which seem to cause more problems than they solve!
 
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Sidekick

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Kioti CK2620SE cab, RTV-X, BX2360, Z726XKW-3-60
Jul 29, 2023
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I looked at the TYM 474 and found most of the issues like broken frames, axles, and bent cylinders seem to come from the extremely high loader lift capacity. They have the ability to tear themselves apart when pushed too hard.
 
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Mr Haney

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L3710, ZD326S
May 23, 2022
279
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FL
The Deere 4520 and 4720 look like the only real shots I have unless I want to be using a walker by the time I find a tractor to buy.
 

GrumpyFarmer

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If worried about reliability (ie. older kubota) why is a newer TYM in the DA? That doesn’t seem like tech / reliability concerns is real, that sounds like a little birdie. And that is fine, but how is that a fair comparison?
 

jyoutz

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MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
3,376
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Edgewood, New Mexico
You can't believe everything you read on the internet!!

If you want to lift logs, you need a loader. Any older machine without a loader is a problem, it's far more expensive to add a loader after you buy it than it is to just buy one with a loader. And, of course, that's why they're cheaper without a loader.

If you're looking older, then it's L or M. If you want HST, then I think older Ms (even newer Ms) don't have it. So, L it is.

I think your options are L5030, L5040, maybe L5060 (not sure about emissions), L5240, L5740, maybe L6060. It looks to me that the Lxx60 have EGR, so it's not full emissions but it's some.

I'd be surprised if most of them didn't have electronic controllers of some sort, they're all direct injected.

Just a case of waiting for one to come along, or looking at another brand.


View attachment 158658
You surely need a loader for lifting, and finding one for an older discontinued model is like finding a needle in a haystack. The MX series is super nice for what you want to do, and Kubota will supply replacement parts for at least the next 20 years. The electronics don’t bother me in the least and they are pretty reliable on the Kubotas. The only brand where I hear a lot about DPF problems is the LS.
 
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TheOldHokie

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windyridgefarm.us
I don't want a new tractor. I don't want to spend $50,000 and lose the 15% instant depreciation as it leaves the dealership, and I don't want to have the gadgetry fail, as explained above.

It has to be and L5030 or bigger. I already have 38 horsepower; that's what I want to upgrade from. It has to have HST.

As I said, most of what I do is moving cut trees, so I need to be able to lift a lot. Apart from that, I want to run a flail mower without pushing 38 horses to the limit.

I looked at TYM, but the front wheels sometimes fall off, the front axles fail, they have ball bearings in the rear axle, and the service stories are the stuff of horror movies. With a new TYM T574, I could discard the emissions junk and never worry about it again, but I don't want to end up with a disabled tractor sitting in my yard for a year while I wait for repairs.

It looks like John Deeres are easier to find, but I have concerns about the difficulty of working on them.
I will put this real simply - you are living in the past and have an unrealistic budget based on your stated needs.

In 20 years a 20 year old tractor will be a high hour 40 year old tractor. You are going to see more down time and spend more time and money trying to restore, maintain, and source discontinued and high priced parts for it than you will for a new tractor with factory warranty and better parts support.

Dan
 
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Mr Haney

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L3710, ZD326S
May 23, 2022
279
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FL
You think no one gets a good emissions-free tractor for less than $50,000? A guy in this thread just bought one.