know I need a tractor, but too much or to little??

D2Cat

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Something else to consider, do you off load the round bales with your front end leader, or do they get dumped from a bale trailer? When you move them to your horses do you use the 3pt. and set in a hay ring?

Another factor the U of Ga. didn't mention, hay weighs more at the time the bale is wrapped then any other time. So when you receive the hay it could weigh more then when you feed it, if you're feeding 2/month.

You could also spend $1500 and get the complete hyd/electric bale spear for your pick up. Pretty easy to put it in use and to remove when necessary.

If you're just feeding a couple of bales a month that is a simple option. I have two of those units and I have a couple of horses (mobile yard ornaments) on full smorgasbord that I use the PU for!!
 

sheepfarmer

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Good find, that's what you need is examples of use. The guy in the video with the l4600 looked safe to me, but the guy in the next video with a ford 3600 made me nervous to watch. I guess the question to ask, besides whether the tractor can lift that much, is what does the land look like where you are going to be moving the bales (flat, hard?) and where are they going to be stored? Somewhere on the forum is someone with a 5060 or maybe a 5460, can't remember. Will send you name if I find, but he might be a good resource.
 

Greenhead

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Oct 13, 2014
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Virginiavenom; I have both a L4400 and a MX5100. Now first off, the new model L4600 I would not consider. That one and only model of Kubota is made in Thailand. Why just that one? No clue. The L4400 is made in Japan. Just check the tag on the motor. With that out of the way, the MX is more tractor all the way around. Weight, HP, size and it just runs better. Everything seems more refined. Both are good, but the MX5100 is better of the two. Like you stated, load up the rears and add appropriate ballast to the rear end. The MX 4700 or 5100 would be fine. The only difference is the 5100 has a turbo hence a couple more HP. If you did a lot of brush hogging or live in higher altitudes the turbo would be good. I would get the Hydro/HST and I would avoid the new models as they have pollution controls added to them now(ching,ching).
The 2014-MX4700 and MX5100 do not, if you can find them. My 2 cents.
 
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virginiavenom

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Jan 30, 2015
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Sherman, TX
okay, so I started getting quotes on the MX5800 and the L6060(w/Cab) and so far I'm getting some very off numbers, some good some bad on both tractors and I guess I don't understand why. yes I know they both are tier 4 final. I'm not all that concerned with that. I'm sure kubota will stand behind their product.

first of all on the L6060 w/cab I'm getting a price of 39,300 vs the web at 44792 <--pretty good deal there.
but then the options confuse me. the left is quote, the right is web. can anyone tell me why there is such an upcharge it seems?
which of these can I do after getting the tractor with relative ease and have no issue putting it on this tractor
LA1055 loader
5400 - 4898
L2245 4-1 bucket (opinions on 4in1 vs standard buckets please)
2495 - 2140
L2265 third function valve
1350 - 899
2 remotes
1800 - 1383
Top N Tilt
1095 - 871

I was also told by this same dealer that the L6060 can't have a backhoe if it has a cab, but the website clearly says if you do the 92 it's fine. which I would. however I'm told I can't have a backhoe with a topNtilt. would having both and switching between the 2 be a major ordeal? I would really like the ability to add a backhoe in the future, or should I get the backhoe instead of the top-n-tilt. because I will need to boxblade I figured the topntilt would be a necessity. what are the thoughts on this, should I just get both? what about the other options and keeping the large financing down should I just finance tractor and loader with regular bucket and add the other things later or is it really hard?

sorry for the millions of questions. I just figure the more I know and already have answers to the less I have to worry about the day I pick it up.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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which of these can I do after getting the tractor with relative ease and have no issue putting it on this tractor
LA1055 loader
5400 - 4898
L2245 4-1 bucket (opinions on 4in1 vs standard buckets please)
2495 - 2140
L2265 third function valve
1350 - 899
2 remotes
1800 - 1383
Top N Tilt
1095 - 871
L6060 would be my pick
I would also do the Loader
Third function valve
2 remotes, I would even bump that up to three if that's an option.
And if you want a Backhoe do that now, as getting it down the line can get difficult!
Top and tilt should work just the same regardless if you get the backhoe or not as it's run off of the remotes.
 

virginiavenom

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Jan 30, 2015
373
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Sherman, TX
L6060 would be my pick
I would also do the Loader
Third function valve
2 remotes, I would even bump that up to three if that's an option.
And if you want a Backhoe do that now, as getting it down the line can get difficult!
Top and tilt should work just the same regardless if you get the backhoe or not as it's run off of the remotes.
that was kind of my thought was to get 3 remotes (which should I get? Float Detent or double acting?)
and that I could just disconnect at the remote and hook up the backhoe. I was going to get it with a thumb kit as I've heard that is invaluable.

how useful is the 4in1 vs just a regular bucket?
 
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Grateful11

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Apr 20, 2010
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Piedmont, NC
We have an L3940-3 with the L724 loader with Titan R4's. They put up over 700 4x4 rounds in 2013 and about 550 in 2014. I can tell you that it handles the 4x4's pretty good on flat ground like we have. My wife just bought 30 4x5 round bales Friday and were delivered Friday and Sat. because they're running short this year like many people around here they just didn't make hay make like usual. The 4x5's were pushing the limits on the L3940 and L724 loader IMO. You could actually see the loader mounts on the tractor flexing forward some with each bale. It picked them up but the there's some pucker factor in there coming off of a dump trailer with them stacked 2 high. We they're handling a lot of bales at one time they put a spike on the 3 point and spear a bale and drive around with it on there for extra ballast over just the loaded rear tires.

If digging solid undisturbed ground you're most likely going to run out traction before you run out of power with any of these tractors. Ours has been known to load many as 20 loads of manure in one day. They hauled 18 loads in an IH 155 bushel spreader two weeks ago and timed the operator to see how long it took to load it, heaped, and it took 3 to 3 1/2 minutes with the std. square back bucket, that's not bad, try that with a gear drive or a power reverser for that matter ;)

My wife and son are pondering trading up to a L5460 or L6060 for the heavier front axle, heavier loader, heavier tractor and Cat. 1/2 3 point hitch. Just a tad a afraid of the Tier IV emissions with as much idling as ours does.

With a 110 gallon sprayer with 28' boom assembly.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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that was kind of my thought was to get 3 remotes (which should I get? Float Detent or double acting?)
and that I could just disconnect at the remote and hook up the backhoe. I was going to get it with a thumb kit as I've heard that is invaluable.

how useful is the 4in1 vs just a regular bucket?
I personally would make sure at least one was detent/float it can come in handy if you need it, the other 2 can be standard double acting. :)

I think the 4 in 1 is a little over rated and in most cases cumbersome and bulky.
With the invent of the SSQA attachments its easy to swap out to other more purpose built attachments like a grapple, blade, bucket, pallet forks, bale spear and the list goes on and on. ;)
 

virginiavenom

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Jan 30, 2015
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Sherman, TX
I personally would make sure at least one was detent/float it can come in handy if you need it, the other 2 can be standard double acting. :)

I think the 4 in 1 is a little over rated and in most cases cumbersome and bulky.
With the invent of the SSQA attachments its easy to swap out to other more purpose built attachments like a grapple, blade, bucket, pallet forks, bale spear and the list goes on and on. ;)
okay. so I think I understand what the remotes are, but don't understand what implements they would actually work. the 3rd function I understand for the front. the kubota dealer told me you don't need them for the backhoe. what commonly used attachments would I need those remotes for? aren't most rear implements driven by the PTO?

Also, I'm seeing the category rears but I'm not sure what if any benefit besides lifting capacity, which I'm not sure what I would need a tremendous amount for, for common attachments. some extra explanation there would help. boxblade, backhoe, brush hog, rear bale spear is probably the extent of the rear usage. possibly a rear snow blower if I ever move north although I think I'd rather have a front one....


also, on the backhoe.....thumb or no thumb? 12" or 36" bucket? does it struggle with a 36, or does it do it just fine? 9 ft backhoe is the one I'm contemplating.
 
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Grateful11

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Apr 20, 2010
88
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Piedmont, NC
nice. how many hours do you have on it now? any issues big or small out of the tractor? would and wouldn't do again on next purchase?
The only issue we've had with was the first Winter it didn't want to start properly, it was delivered in the Spring '10. The dealer sent over his head mechanic and along with him was the original owner of the dealership at that time he was semi retired and has since passed away. Anyway they came within a few hours as they know this tractor is used day in and day out. The mechanic went over it and said I can't fix here it's got go to the shop, the glow plugs were not working at all. They came prepared to do whatever they needed as they brought the company rollback. They took in on Friday around noon and had it back the next Monday around noon. When they dropped it off we asked what we owed them for the trip because that isn't normally cover under warranty and the elderly original owner of the business said you don't owe a thing, this was something that happened during assembly at the factory and he was just glad it back up and running like it should be. Couldn't ask for better service.

That's the only problem we've. Just routine maintenance and it's always shedded. It's not always as clean as it is in this photo because there 1000's of square feet of concrete on the feed lot that used to be dairy and well you know what builds up on that, poop.

If we would have done it over we would have went with at minimum an L4240 possibly an L5740, both had a heavier loader and heavier front axle. Right know my wife and son are getting a L6060 quoted with a FEL, 3rd function, R4's, two sets of wheel weights and one set of remotes on the rear. They could use a heavier loader as they are thinking of doing some small wrapped round bales. They need to stay in this line for the Hydro. and more compact size of the L series. There's nothing like having Hydro working in tight spots. So far the most they've been offered for the tractor was $15K on a trade, I think that's a bit low. The L6060 is coming in around $38,700 equipped the way they want it.
 

Grateful11

Member
Apr 20, 2010
88
7
8
Piedmont, NC
okay. so I think I understand what the remotes are, but don't understand what implements they would actually work. the 3rd function I understand for the front. the kubota dealer told me you don't need them for the backhoe. what commonly used attachments would I need those remotes for? aren't most rear implements driven by the PTO?

Also, I'm seeing the category rears but I'm not sure what if any benefit besides lifting capacity, which I'm not sure what I would need a tremendous amount for, for common attachments. some extra explanation there would help. boxblade, backhoe, brush hog, rear bale spear is probably the extent of the rear usage. possibly a rear snow blower if I ever move north although I think I'd rather have a front one....


also, on the backhoe.....thumb or no thumb? 12" or 36" bucket? does it struggle with a 36, or does it do it just fine? 9 ft backhoe is the one I'm contemplating.
The rear remotes are used on things like a 4 basket Tedder here, also a 9' DiscBine, a New Idea Corn Picker, a 7' pull type Bush Hog and etc.

Cat. 1 vs. Cat. 2 will allow use of larger 3 pt. implements that are Cat. 2 and higher only. Many Cat. 2 implements are going to be too heavy for these tractors. There's a 12' Field Cultivator here with Danish Tines and Roller Basket on the rear that's Cat. 2 and the CaseIH 5140 is light in the frontend with that thing lifted up. Most everything large here, 12' Amco Heavy Disc Harrow and 14' CaseIH 475 finish disc, IH 82 Combine, is pull type which you need rear remotes to set the wheel up and down on them.

Some people get 2 sets of remotes so they can use a Top and Tilt system.
 

virginiavenom

Member
Jan 30, 2015
373
13
18
Sherman, TX
does anyone know the torque ratings of the L60 grand series or where I can find them? I used a JD 4610 tractor this weekend for some odd jobs and it seemed to be pretty decent all around other than it was the wrong color and I hated the controls of the bucket and threepoint. I know what that tractors torque rating is, but I'd like to know what the torque rating is of the 60s. specifically the 3560-4760. if there is something on the kubota website a simple weblink will work. thanks again.
 

Tallahassee Kubota Man

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M5140HD/LA1153/LandPride RCF2072/DirtDog disc/RakeMaster grapple/Caroni tiller
Just thought I'd throw this out there. Last year I got an M5140 4wd Hydro Shuttle w/FEL and 72" bucket for a tad over $30,000. It's a discontinued model, but I think you can still find one new. It doesn't have the new Tier 4 emissions. I built this one on the Kubota site and ended up with $34,762. Should be available with a cab. For what I need it's a great tractor, has the hp and weight needed. I do wish it had a little more torque at lower rpms, but jumping up to a 60 or 70 hp would have been considerably more.
 
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Cr555

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B7300 and B1750
Dec 14, 2014
26
0
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enterprise, AL
I believe the original question was essentially "what size tractor do I need?" I know the most common sentiment is "buy the biggest tractor you can afford -- you can never have too much tractor." However, I've also seen advice posted elsewhere to buy a tractor capable of doing 80 percent of your work, and then rent equipment or hire someone to do the rest. I'm partial to the later theory. 80 percent of my tractor use is mowing. 10 pecent is pulling a trailer around our property, and a little rototilling. Occasionally I use a box blade and a boom arm. I suppose once or twice a year a FEL would come in handy, and perhaps once or twice a year I could use a bigger/heavier tractor. But, it seems more sensible to me to just rent equipment (or borrow a neighbor's) when I need a little more "horsepower." Just my 2c.