Key Switch Starter Issue

[Stob]

L2550 bought used. The key switch seemed to be worn out because it had a very small place that would engage the starter, meaning you had to fiddle with it just right to get it to tyrn over. It got worse, I heard the starter click, but wouldn't turn.

So I pull the side cover off and use a copper wire and jump the soleniod to the battery cable and it spins over great and strong. Not a battery issue at all.

So I bite the bullet and buy a new key switch. Seemed to be fine but then, the same thing happened. I kept hitting the key to the start back and forth, hearing the solenoid not engage, then finally it worked. So where is the issue between the key switch and the solenoid? Somewhere in the wiring between the switch and soleniod is not supplying proper voltage to make the soleniod engage.

I've heard that maybe when this happens, the drive gear on the starter is hitting against a tooth on the ring gear and not getting between the cogs to fully engage. But why then would the same thing not happen when I jump it direct?

 

[Tooljunkie]

Clutch switch.not a common problem but they do fail. Test light will tell all. A test at ign switch, then down the line to determine problem.

 

[Stob]

That would certainly be in the wiring path. Even though it's "not recommended", I've often thought of bypassing it anyway.

 

[Stob]

I looked at the wiring diagram and the started circuit runs though two safety switches that could cause issues. I think I'm going to bypass both.

 

[Stob]

For those that may be interested, I traced the wiring from the switch. Even though the wiring diagram shows two safety switches, it only has one, for the clutch. So I bypassed it, and I haven't had a problem since. And the starter solenoid engages with a whole lot more authority than before, which tells me the switch contacts were iffy at best.

I know bypassing a safety switch is frowned upon. I grew up with old tractors that had no such animals on them, and I'm the only one who uses this tractor anyway. I left the wiring as such that I can quickly reconnect a new switch should I ever sell it.

 

[ShaunRH]

If you are diligent in your routine (checking everything, making sure all is clear, etc.) before starting you can bypass a clutch safety switch. It's really there to stop you from cranking it over while you are down on the ground and could be run over by the tractor if it's in gear when you start cranking it.

With that stated, it's rarely a good idea to bypass safety switches that can still be replaced. If you can acquire a new one for small $, then it's probably best to replace it. You may need to replace connectors or the wiring itself depending on how good the wires insulation still is.

I love old tractors, I really like them. However, they are long on utility and life-span but short on safety. Thousands of farmers, farm workers, ranchers, etc. are injured or killed by tractors and their equipment, so that safety is paramount to survival around something that you wouldn't even be a speed bump to.

My new Kubota has so much safety it's annoying and slows me down, but then again, that's exactly what it is there for: Slow down and think about what you are doing!

So I'd suggest replacing that switch as soon as you can afford it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You really should consider changing the switch, it's only a $12.98 part that could save you a whole lot of grief in the future!

P/N 37150-32240

http://www.dealsinapinch.com/A_37150_32240_p/a-37150-32240.htm

 

[thebings]

I have had this same problem on my ZD25 mower for about a year now. After many hours of trouble shooting (solenoid, ground, voltage, safety switches, etc. I think I found the problem today. I removed the ignition switch, then disconnected the wire connectors (two) leading to the switch. I cleaned the connectors, reassembled and now it is working prefect. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[Stob]

It's quite simple that right where the switch is, is the gear shift, column mounted. A simple check that it's in neutral, and crank. And I love being able to walk by, start it to warm up without having to climb on to push the clutch in, then get back off.

I have an old Troy-built tiller that has ZERO safeties. 30 years and not one mishap.

 

[ShaunRH]

You guys might wanna check out an L2550... it's not a sub 15hp rototiller meant for hand operation. We also aren't talking about a small garden tractor that might make your foot hurt if it gets run over. (Comment isn't directed at Stob, you know the unit, you own it but everyone reading this needs to know it's not a small tractor.)

Also, my D-17 has no safeties either and while it's convenient for warming up, it's not safe by any stretch. A front wheel of it alone weighs over 150lbs. You cannot make ONE mistake with it or it will seriously maim you. (See picture for the hardware attached to the monster)

Please be careful!

 

[Tooljunkie]

My old domestic tractor has no safety features whatsoever, i keep that in mind when i run it. 1952- safety switch? Whats that?
I replaced the on- off switch with a key type so i can prevent others from using it carelessly.