Kawasaki FR 651V Engine and Break-in Procedure and opinions?

[Ernie1945]

I know its not lawn site or engine forum but;

I have it on New Kubota Z231KW-42 zero turn mower, Florida use 80F-+90’s summer.

IT ( MANUAL) says run @ moderately speed load for first 50 hrs.

Change oil and filter at 8-10 hrs breaking in.

Go to 100 hr or once a year schedule.

I’m doing the first one.

@ 2nd specified 10W-40 Kawasaki syn/blend , run to finish break-in and season/Est 20-30 hrs

@3rd Kawasaki oil filter and Amsoil 10W-40 small engine oil, watch color and 50 hrs or once season cycle

OLD SCHOOL EXCESSIVE OR WASTE OF MONEY? Already Amsoil Preferred Customer.

 

[Henro]

Confused...you have a Kubota zero turn without a Kubota engine?

Surprised to hear that but marketing is marketing...

OR are you saying it has a Kubota engine, but they recommend non Kubota products for engine lubrication?

Again, which oil are your referring to? Engine or drive system? Sounds like engine oil. I use Shell oil for diesels in my Kubota's plus factory filters, and have for over twenty years.

Transmission is a different story. ONLY Kubota products...AND all filters are Kubota too including engine oil filters. NOT worth the risk to me otherwise to save a couple bucks.

 

[85Hokie]

Confused...you have a Kubota zero turn without a Kubota engine?

Many Kubota's Zero turns use the Kawasaki engine - as for oil, synthetic Amsoil is perfect( I use Amsoil in all places) - if you are getting the oil at a cheaper cost then use it.

 

[Henro]

Many Kubota's Zero turns use the Kawasaki engine - as for oil, synthetic Amsoil is perfect( I use Amsoil in all places) - if you are getting the oil at a cheaper cost then use it.

Makes sense...marketing is marketing...personally though, I would be dissapointed if I bought a product marketed as a Kubota that did not have a Kubota engine...

 

[Steve67]

Most of the major zero turn mowers use the Kawasaki engine which is extremely reliable

 

[85Hokie]

Makes sense...marketing is marketing...personally though, I would be dissapointed if I bought a product marketed as a Kubota that did not have a Kubota engine...

Next time you are around a john deere tractor - pop the hood, THEY buy ALL their diesels from..........YANMAR, which make a "good" diesel.

I, like you - think that a company should make a "body" and the "engine" to go in it.

But it is probably a lot easier to buy a completed engine - ship it in, and stick it in that tool up and make your own.

 

[Elliott in GA]

I do not think that Kubota makes a small enough gas engine to go on a normal ZT. The Kubota website shows a 3cylinder gas/LP/Natural gas as the smallest; I think all of the gas ZTs are 2 cylinder.

Once you go to the Kubota commercial/institutional/government ZTs, you get a Kubota diesel engine.

 

[Ernie1945]

If you go to your dealer and look down the line of zero turn mowers to the end
you will see the smallest ones ( the Z200 homeowner/ residential models]


Since we have small under one acre lot I got the Smallest Z231KW-42
Kawasaki Engine, frame and 42 in deck Kubota.

Breaking in till rings seated before changing to Amsoil Small Engine oil.

FYI I found out why my three mile delivery was not free after all?
one gallon in 3.6 capacity tank.

 

[fried1765]

Makes sense...marketing is marketing...personally though, I would be dissapointed if I bought a product marketed as a Kubota that did not have a Kubota engine...

It is simple enough to answer the engine manufacturer question BEFORE you buy.
There should be no surprises!
Just look at the engine brand that is bolted in the machine.
ALL small engine manufacturers put identification labels on their engines.

 

[lugbolt]

You're better off using either Kawasaki's oil change kit, or Kubota's (whichever your manual states to use). Particularly if you have any warranty on it. Been through many of these.

So what happens? It starts to use oil (heaven forbid), you take it back to kubota dealer. First thing you find out is that if that kubota dealer isn't a kawasaki engine dealer, you'll have to go find a kawasaki engine dealer because kubota washed their hands of kawasaki engines, other than selling them. Secondly and most importantly--kawasaki will want a bunch of information such as, but not limited to compression readings, pictures of the air intake and filter, pics of the rod cap(s), crankshaft, cylinders, service records, etc. If for some reason an approve fluid is not used and they can prove that the fluid that was used does not meet kawasaki specifications, you (the owner) is on the hook for a $2500 engine + a bunch of labor that was spent in teardowns, etc. Seen this happen a few times too and it's never a good position to be in!!

 

[mattwithcats]

Shell Rotella T6 in 5W-40, and a Fram 3614 or equivalent filter.
If you have enough room, you can use a 3600 or equivalent…

I picked up a bunch of Champion filters from Rock Auto when they were 97 cents each….

 

[fried1765]

Shell Rotella T6 in 5W-40, and a Fram 3614 or equivalent filter.
If you have enough room, you can use a 3600 or equivalent…

I picked up a bunch of Champion filters from Rock Auto when they were 97 cents each….

IMHO,....... using cheap (Walmart) Fram, or Rock Auto filters ("97 cents"), on ANY engine, is a terrible idea!
"Project Farm" has an excellent U-Tube video on oil filters.
Everyone should view it!

 

[mattwithcats]

Not all filters are “Cheap”…

Rock had Fram Pro Synthetic, FPS, filters a while back.
These were Fram Ultras without the grippy paint, meant for oil change shops…

The Champion filters were closed out because Fram bought Champion…
They were pretty solid looking, and work just fine in my cars and lawn equipment.

An exception is my little car, which has a habit of collapsing the internals of oil filters…
I use a Wix XP / NAPA Platinum because there is reinforcing mesh on the inside…

 

[fried1765]

Not all filters are “Cheap”…

Rock had Fram Pro Synthetic, FPS, filters a while back.
These were Fram Ultras without the grippy paint, meant for oil change shops…

The Champion filters were closed out because Fram bought Champion…
They were pretty solid looking, and work just fine in my cars and lawn equipment.

An exception is my little car, which has a habit of collapsing the internals of oil filters…
I use a Wix XP / NAPA Platinum because there is reinforcing mesh on the inside…

"pretty solid looking"?
That is definitely comforting!

Have you cut an assortment of new filters open, to compare what is inside?
Again: Project Farm provides an informed comparison of the filtration media and overall construction of various filter brands!

Of course, I am absolutely certain that "oil change shops" always use the finest quality oil, and oil filters.