Just Upgraded from 2620 to L5201..Slightly disappointed

[Albone]

My 2620 was a beast never failed to dig lift or do the work I put it to, Thinking my new 2501 would be just as aggressive, I'm disappointed in that:

1) max throttle stops the RPM at about 2500RPM?? my 2620 would rev as high as I would throttle it..I cant get this to go above this RPM range..doesnt seem like there is a linkage, but electronically limited?

2) I know the 2501 has a bigger front bucket but it can barely lift it when full of clean fill? it wont rotate or push into and up like my 2320 did. I have to play with it trans back and forth till it decides to take a bite? Seems anemic!

So my questions are:

One: can I change the upper RPM limit so it can get up to the 3K area where I should have alittle more pump available?

Two: has anyone raised the pump pressure on these with internal shims to help it work alittle harder?

 

[85Hokie]

My 2620 was a beast never failed to dig lift or do the work I put it to, Thinking my new 2501 would be just as aggressive, I'm disappointed in that:

1) max throttle stops the RPM at about 2500RPM?? my 2620 would rev as high as I would throttle it..I cant get this to go above this RPM range..doesnt seem like there is a linkage, but electronically limited?

2) I know the 2501 has a bigger front bucket but it can barely lift it when full of clean fill? it wont rotate or push into and up like my 2320 did. I have to play with it trans back and forth till it decides to take a bite? Seems anemic!

So my questions are:

One: can I change the upper RPM limit so it can get up to the 3K area where I should have alittle more pump available?

Two: has anyone raised the pump pressure on these with internal shims to help it work alittle harder?

First - those are two entirely different engines...your B was putting out 26 hps more or less at its upper rpm limit 3K and the L is more or less 24 HP with a larger engine that does NOT need to get up there in the rpm range to make the max torque/hp - max 2500 RPM

Your B had a Lift to full height at pin: 952 lbs
where you L should be: Lift to full height at pin:1131 lbs

You should much more breakout force with the L also....

I am not sure what is up if the L is not push up the load

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Not trying to be rude, or mean, but do you suffer from dyslexia?

You note 4 different tractors, I'm pretty sure you mean a b2620 and a L2501, and not a b2320 and a L5201???

Also change your profile to state L2501, not L5201, which kubota doesn't make...well at least not that I know of.

 

[edritchey]

Bottom line there isn't much difference between the two in fact the B has a things the L doesn't like mid-PTO and as far as lifting goes if your L has a QA setup you lost and lifting advantage it might have had especially with the bigger bucket on the L.

When you're buying a tractor to get more tractor you almost have to double the size to really make it worth while.

 

[Joel K]

I upgraded from a B2650 to an L2501. The B2650 was an awesome tractor however I needed a more stout tractor with more ground weight. I do alot of ground engagement activities. Your question regarding the rpms and pressure increase I can answer. First of all doing this may affect your warranty so this is at your own risk.

Your tractor is capable of much higher rpms! HP and torque increase is possible however I've not put it on a dyno. There is a throttle stop adjustment on the side of the motor you will find factory set and wired to prevent tamper. Cut the wire and adjust the stop. I've achieved 3000 rpms and could possibly get more.

For the loader you will need to add shims to the relief valve. I added two small stainless washers and increased the pressure by almost 400 lbs. I dont remember the final pressure however it's close to 200 lbs over factory recommended pressure. So far I didn't break anything and the power increase is very noticable.

Good luck and enjoy your tractor. It's a very tough and capable machine.

 

[lugbolt]

The throttle stop is also an emissions control device, thus tampering with it can be a federal issue.

Your bucket is a LOT bigger on the 2501 thus it's possible to overload the loader's lift capacity with the bigger bucket. IF you have a QA bucket, that reduces the lift capacity a litttle bit too. How? The lift capacity of the loader is rated at the pin. The further you move the load away from the pin the less lifting capacity. A skid-steer (QA) bucket is moved away from the loader a few inches, thus your lifting capacity drops a little, also, the geometry that the bucket has in relation to the cylinders is also different such that using the curl function may be affected quite a bit.

I hate to disappoint you but that's how it works--and the salespeople will never tell you that. Most of the time they just don't know. Other times they know and ain't gonna tell you cause they want to move an L2501 which is a sweet little tractor.

I certainly would advise against shimming the pressure too, though some have gotten away with it--it's dangerous if you don't know what you're doing AND if for some reason you have a hydraulic issue in the future while the tractor's under warranty (or even slightly out of warranty) and they find out you've shimmed it....the bill's on you....among other issues that I ain't gonna go into. IOW, you take the liability into your own hands.

 

[dlundblad]

The throttle stop is also an emissions control device, thus tampering with it can be a federal issue.

Your bucket is a LOT bigger on the 2501 thus it's possible to overload the loader's lift capacity with the bigger bucket. IF you have a QA bucket, that reduces the lift capacity a litttle bit too. How? The lift capacity of the loader is rated at the pin. The further you move the load away from the pin the less lifting capacity. A skid-steer (QA) bucket is moved away from the loader a few inches, thus your lifting capacity drops a little, also, the geometry that the bucket has in relation to the cylinders is also different such that using the curl function may be affected quite a bit.

I hate to disappoint you but that's how it works--and the salespeople will never tell you that. Most of the time they just don't know. Other times they know and ain't gonna tell you cause they want to move an L2501 which is a sweet little tractor.

I certainly would advise against shimming the pressure too, though some have gotten away with it--it's dangerous if you don't know what you're doing AND if for some reason you have a hydraulic issue in the future while the tractor's under warranty (or even slightly out of warranty) and they find out you've shimmed it....the bill's on you....among other issues that I ain't gonna go into. IOW, you take the liability into your own hands.

I read here a while back that the throttle stop was simply a linkage? The D1703 is capable of putting out 30 hp @ 2800 rpm assuming it's the same thing they sell in Australia. I wouldn't mess with any of this stuff while it's under warranty.

___________________________________

OP:

At what point did you find the lower RPM's to be an issue? Were you just watching the tachometer or were you actually working the tractor? As Hokie said, the engine puts out more power at a lower RPM than what's in the B2650. I've always been under the impression the B can lift a few hundred lbs more than the L, but perhaps I'm mistaken.

 

[Rdrett]

I have a L2501 with a skid steer quick attach and 66 inch bucket.

My tractor has no problem lifting heaping buckets of clay dirt, rock, gravel, bricks, blocks, sand, wood or anything I have tried to lift.

I have lifted big blocks of solid concrete with my pallet forks that were bigger than the bucket.

If you’re tractor will not lift a heaping bucket of fill dirt then something must be wrong with it.

I used my tractor to flip over a 2,000 pound trailer so I could weld and paint under it.

The only time I have had a problem with lifting was when I tried to move pallets of concrete blocks. The issue was the blocks were too far away from the pivot pin.

 

[Rdrett]

The throttle stop is also an emissions control device, thus tampering with it can be a federal issue.

Your bucket is a LOT bigger on the 2501 thus it's possible to overload the loader's lift capacity with the bigger bucket. IF you have a QA bucket, that reduces the lift capacity a litttle bit too. How? The lift capacity of the loader is rated at the pin. The further you move the load away from the pin the less lifting capacity. A skid-steer (QA) bucket is moved away from the loader a few inches, thus your lifting capacity drops a little, also, the geometry that the bucket has in relation to the cylinders is also different such that using the curl function may be affected quite a bit.

I hate to disappoint you but that's how it works--and the salespeople will never tell you that. Most of the time they just don't know. Other times they know and ain't gonna tell you cause they want to move an L2501 which is a sweet little tractor.

I certainly would advise against shimming the pressure too, though some have gotten away with it--it's dangerous if you don't know what you're doing AND if for some reason you have a hydraulic issue in the future while the tractor's under warranty (or even slightly out of warranty) and they find out you've shimmed it....the bill's on you....among other issues that I ain't gonna go into. IOW, you take the liability into your own hands.

I better not do that then! I don’t want the feds busting down my door in the middle of the night because I adjusted the throttle linkage on my tractor

 

[GeoHorn]

quoted : "... while the tractor's under warranty (or even slightly out of warranty) and they find out you've shimmed it....the bill's on you...."

I'm not critiqueing the person quoted...I'm only using the concept of not doing something under warranty... and waiting until is OUT of warranty to adjust things beyond their designed capability.

I find this an interesting concept... that of being afraid of breaking something while under warranty fearing that warranty will not cover it because of the modification....
...versus...
…. making such a modification which exceeds the design and breaking it COMPLETELY ON YOUR OWN NICKEL!

I must live in an alternate universe where MY paying 100%; for a failure I created.... makes any difference whatsoever as to whether or not I pay for it because they factory won't... or because the factory is no longer obligated to.
EITHER WAY if the modification breaks the damn thing then it's STILL my nickel.... not much difference.

 

[Grateful11]

The loader on an L2501 should be able to lift a bucket full of dirt. I copied and pasted this from another post.

"Well we went to the dealership and looked at a L2501 but the only one they had together didn't have a quick change loader on it, they have about 5 in crates. So they brought out a L3301 with forks. I wasn't expecting them to try move a full pallet load of net wrap, 83# per roll or 1328# of net wrap plus the weight of the medium duty forks. It picked it up no problem but would not steer sitting still, not surprising. That was so much weight we were almost afraid to even try and move it, it did steer with some difficulty when moving very slowly in Low range. When they went to park the net wrap back into place, it was a slight incline, they had to use 4wd to get it to move as the rear as basically unweighted. It only had methanol loaded R4's and no other ballast. I'm still shocked that it picked it up at all."

 

[JPB7745]

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40824&stc=1&d=1550147370

I move logs like this and some bigger to my mill all the time. Not sure what might be going on with your tractor, sorry to hear.