Just bought my first tractor: 1989 Kubota L4150

[sticknrudder]

I just bought my first tractor. 3100 hours. Previous owner spent about $3,300 at a shop recently fixing various things and putting all new filters and fluids. It operates very nice. My goal is to have it to use around our 4 acre property helping out with landscaping, wife’s gardening and moving logs and lumber around a bandsaw mill. Is there anyone on here with this model of tractor who can give me advice about owning it? I have a few questions:

What attachments are able to be used with this tractor? Are they fairly universal? I am looking for a set of forks for moving logs.

Also I am in need of some replacement parts. One headlight lense is broken. Are these Kubota specific?
Seat needs replaced…can I find one to fit this tractor or do I need to go a more generic route?
Finally, one of the rear wheels seems to have a lot of corrosion around the valve stem. I’m thinking the rim needs replaced. Where is the best place to buy one?

Thanks for any help!

 

[PaulL]

Messicks is a great source of parts, and friendly/easy to engage with via e-mail or phone. I'd imagine at least some parts are still available, or they'll know if later model parts fit.

The rust around valve stem may indicate filled tyres now or in the past.

 

[jyoutz]

It’s likely that your tires are filled with calcium carbonate mix, which is a good weight ballast, but is highly corrosive. After replacing your wheels, there are several liquids that are currently used that are non-corrosive: Rim guard, bio-ballast, window washer fluid, or antifreeze added to water. Good luck with your new project.

 

[Vlach7]

If the tire isn't leaking wire brush it and paint it, might last the life of your tractor.

 

[fried1765]

If the tire isn't leaking wire brush it and paint it, might last the life of your tractor.

Rather than just bandaiding it, and later getting surprised with having to hunt for a long out of stock rim, I would be proactive.
Take the wheel off.
Have a tire shop pull the tire off the rim.
Sandblast the rusted area.
Apply several coats of marine grade 2 part epoxy to the damaged area.
Prime with OSPHO, and repaint the rim.
Have tire shop remount the tire.
Live a long, and trouble free, tractor wheel life.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Head lamps are specific to that model:

Kubota #32530-33850 RH HEAD LAMP

RH HEAD LAMP

www.messicks.com

Leave the back tires alone, the tires will be welded to the rims.
Trying to break them down for repairs will surely destroy the tires.
You have a non standard set of tires and more than likely non standard rim sizes too.
that tractor did not normally come with pillow block tires (Old style turf tires).
If it's not leaking now, plan on buying 2 new rims and tires to replace them.
You'll need to get new rims and tires, and those tires are long obsolete so you'll have to go with a newer size and style.
Also if you change the rear tires to new tires you will also need to change the front tires to keep the ratio correct and not damage the 4wd.

Bolt on forks will be your cheapest option, but they are not the best.

Implements are rated for size in Cat #'s you have a Cat1 three point hitch.
Anything PTO driven will have a Cat # and a PTO HP requirement.
You have 40 PTO HP.

 

[PaulL]

A lot of the Kubota machines have kept the same bucket pin spacing for decades. It's possible the L-series pin spacing hasn't changed. If so, you could get the old-style Kubota quick attach - I did that for my B2601. It's not quite as good as an SSQA, but it does let you swap bucket and forks pretty quickly, and without modifying your bucket.

 

[BAP]

Seat you can get at places like Tractor Supply, Running’s, Surplus Center and so on. They are pretty universal and generic for less money than a Kubota seat.

 

[sticknrudder]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I haven‘t been able to get on the forum again until now because I’ve been busy with work. I did pick up a new seat for it. Right now I’m trying to figure out the best spot to put hooks on my bucket. The top of the bucket is fairly bent up. I’m thinking that might limit me as to where I can place the hooks. Any ideas? I plan to hang large. 36” claw type lifting tongs from a chain to lift logs on to my sawmill.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I haven‘t been able to get on the forum again until now because I’ve been busy with work. I did pick up a new seat for it. Right now I’m trying to figure out the best spot to put hooks on my bucket. The top of the bucket is fairly bent up. I’m thinking that might limit me as to where I can place the hooks. Any ideas? I plan to hang large. 36” claw type lifting tongs from a chain to lift logs on to my sawmill.

The most conventional place to put hooks is in line with the loader arms.

But I have seen them in other place depending on the needs/wants of the guy putting them on.

I don't have a pic specifically for the hooks, but you can kinda see them in these pics.

 

[06B3030]

A lot of the Kubota machines have kept the same bucket pin spacing for decades. It's possible the L-series pin spacing hasn't changed. If so, you could get the old-style Kubota quick attach - I did that for my B2601. It's not quite as good as an SSQA, but it does let you swap bucket and forks pretty quickly, and without modifying your bucket.

Would you have the part number or link for the "Old-Style" Kubota Quick Attach???
I have a B3030 that I've been tempted to convert. Thanks

 

[PaulL]

For my B2601 I got a B1658, which was $373 plus shipping from Messicks in 2021. I live in NZ, shipping wasn't cheap.

I believe both the small B and the large B have the same pin spacing, so I expect that would fit yours too. But best to ask Messicks, they're pretty good at knowing.

 

[sticknrudder]

I am certainly intrigued by the idea of getting quick attach. I know there are kits to modify the loader arms by cutting off the old pin on attachments and weld on new SSQA. Are there any adapters that you can just pin on to the existing loader pins that allows use of quick attach implements?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I am certainly intrigued by the idea of getting quick attach. I know there are kits to modify the loader arms by cutting off the old pin on attachments and weld on new SSQA. Are there any adapters that you can just pin on to the existing loader pins that allows use of quick attach implements?

ATI makes one for your loader, I think.

 

[PaulL]

I am certainly intrigued by the idea of getting quick attach. I know there are kits to modify the loader arms by cutting off the old pin on attachments and weld on new SSQA. Are there any adapters that you can just pin on to the existing loader pins that allows use of quick attach implements?

I believe they add a fair bit of weight. If your tractor is small it can be quite material. The B1658 is about as light as a quick attach can be - no additional plate on the bucket/attachment, and only a very light attachment on the FEL boom. It also doesn't move the pivot point forward much - maybe a bit over an inch.

They look like this:

Hibid

 

[sticknrudder]

Thank you for the ATI link, that is exactly what I was looking for.

So they add more weight and more expense than say a weld-on SSQA adapter? Is that generally the recommended route to go as apposed to a pin-on adapter for those reasons? Thanks

 

[PaulL]

Thank you for the ATI link, that is exactly what I was looking for.

So they add more weight and more expense than say a weld-on SSQA adapter? Is that generally the recommended route to go as apposed to a pin-on adapter for those reasons? Thanks

Depends what you're doing. The pin on adaptor is quick, easy, relatively inexpensive, and lets you keep your current bucket (although it's a pain to take it on and off) / you can modify your bucket to SSQA and then easily switch.

It adds a bit of weight, and pushes the pivot point a bit forward. Both reduce your lift a little. If you're often lifting near the limit of your tractor, it matters. If you're Joe average moving dirt around, your tractor will probably still move a bucket of dirt. More so if you're like me and your loader skills are only average (maybe arguably sub-average) so you don't often have a heaping full bucket anyway. And often it's mulch, not gravel.....my tractor will lift as big a bucket as I like of mulch, a full bucket of gravel is a different story.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Thank you for the ATI link, that is exactly what I was looking for.

So they add more weight and more expense than say a weld-on SSQA adapter? Is that generally the recommended route to go as apposed to a pin-on adapter for those reasons? Thanks

You have 3 options
1 ATI adapter - costs ~$1,000, weighs ~90# pins right on, adds ~2", uses SSQA attachments
2 weld-on SSQA adapter - costs less, weighs about the same as ATI, adds about the same, uses SSQA attachments, requires you to get the alignment and geometry right and weld
3 Kubota quick-attach - cost/availability?, adds zero, uses bucket as-is. The kicker here is your attachments are non-standard. You'd have to modify any attachments you buy, couldn't rent or borrow, and your attachments might not fit a future tractor.

If you have welding capability, you can cut the ears off the bucket and weld them on an adapter. You'd save money, but have to get the location and alignment right. You can also modify the bucket, the SSQA standard dimensions are available or you can buy a pre-fab plate. You still have to get it on at the right height.

 

[sticknrudder]

PaulL, you make some great points. The weight and changing the pivot point was my main concern. But you helped me see another angle. While I do intend to use the loader for moving dirt, mulch and rocks at times, at a 2,000 capacity on the loader I probably won’t be at much risk maxing it out using a bucket or forks. Where my concern for capacity has been is moving logs which I would like to be able to lift as large of hardwood logs as I possibly can onto my sawmill. I realize I will quickly be limited in this area but don’t want to further limit myself. I’ve realized that probably my best bet for moving logs is lifting tongs, of which I have purchased a pair. What I got to thinking is if I put the hooks for the tongs close to the pins on either the forks or the bucket, I should have pretty close to maximum lifting capacity and whether or not I have SSQA should be fairly negligible. Is this a correct assessment?

PoTreeBoy, you summarized my options very well I think. I know nothing about Kubota quick attach so you‘ve given me an idea I may need to look into. I really only plan to use a bucket and forks but I can definitely see the value in having a quick attach method. Just trying to weigh it against the cost. The other option I began thinking about is maybe a set of bolt on bucket forks. I know they’re far from ideal, but might be a way to achieve most of my objectives at the lowest cost. I’m sure I will wish I had a real set of forks though.

Thanks everyone for helping me work through this. It’s all new to me so I am learning a lot and I appreciate your help with that.

 

[PaulL]

If you're making a plate, no reason not to work out a way to put the lifting tongs directly onto an SSQA plate, save the weight of the bucket or forks. An SSQA plate is about $200 or less shipped, and welding lifting tongs onto one isn't a high precision task.

That is one of the advantages of SSQA - pretty cheap to make dedicated attachments. When I thought I was getting SSQA I had considered making a set of chain hooks directly on an SSQA plate, because I do lift stuff with chains sometimes. Or even putting chain hooks directly onto the quick attach. I also played with a lifting pole - for some things I do the extra height/reach would be useful.

For lifting tongs, I'd be tempted to take an SSQA plate, weld a steel riser onto it, then weld a hook for the lifting tong pivot to hang from about 1-2 feet above the plate. So the log when hanging from the tongs will be pretty close to the bottom of the plate, not hanging a couple feet lower. That extra height would be useful often, and you could crowd your loader to get different angles or to get a bit of extra reach, depending on what you're doing. If you crowd the loader under so the pole you welded on was pointing out directly in front you now get 2 feet of extra reach.

Some people would also weld a couple of chain hooks and a 2 inch receiver on that same plate, and now you could do all sorts of things with it. Perhaps the chain hooks would go near the top of the pole that you're attaching the lifting tongs to - so now the chain hooks have that same reach, but also have the same height - chains always hang a bit below the lifting point, so again suddenly more height for your chains. And you could use the lifting tongs, then loop a chain under the log once it's lifted, give a bit more security.