Joystick broke off on my BX23S

[RWey56]

Was just out plowing snow, and snapped off the joystick for the FEL. Limped back into the garage and upon inspection, there's only two tiny little weld joints on either side of the stick receiving nut where the it attaches to the 2D hydraulic pivot. Huh? Pretty flimsy.

I was able to protect most of the area with tinfoil and reach in there with my welder and tack it back on, but it's going to need disassembly at some point and proper repair ... as in far more beefy welding than the OEM. I might even mill it out a new pivot from one piece then have it hardened.

Anyone else have this happen? I'm a bit surprised.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Pictures would do this thread some good.

 

[Chilliwack Murray]

I’ve noticed on my 7510 the joystick vibrates something fierce at idle and it’s only a matter of times before something gives. It’s already gotten some slack as a result.

I haven’t looked at how to improve it, mainly because it’s not broken yet but I’m curious if yours was this way or others have noticed the same.

 

[lugbolt]

I've sold about a thousand of them. Never seen anyone break off the two 6mm bolts that hold it down. They were either loose, at which point the joystick would've been flopping around some, or it was really pushed really hard to break them, and if that's the case I'd have to ask why it takes that much force to use it?

On welding it, I don't know how that was done but if it is what I think it is, you've just created a lot more work for yourself. Not a big deal I guess.

 

[RWey56]

Sorry for the delayed response. Been very busy.

Anyway, attached is a pic of the break. You can see the bottom of the joystick hanging free, and the two broken weld joints in question. The joint with the green line has very little penetration into the square post of the yoke. The otherside (red) wasn't much better, but I suspect broke as a result of the green one going first. Pretty hard to believe only these two little weld joints tie the stick receiver ( round ring at the bottom of the joystick ) to the yoke.

I wasn't pushing any harder than normal when flipping the stick around, and it just snapped off.

I did call the dealer tonight and he said it will be covered under warranty, so I'm going to limp along with my temporary reattachment until spring, where I can disassemble in the garage without sitting in a puddle of ice melt from my vehicles.

Question: Does anyone have any idea what sort of steel / alloy the yoke is made of? Is it just anodized steel or maybe some sort of stainless? I ask because if the replacement part seems to have similar lacking weld joints, I intend to beef them up a bit before installing it, but I need to get the correct welding wire to do it properly.

I'm probably also going to take the opportunity to rewire the 3rd function valve as the original wire was too short for comfort.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

RWey56,
Your Picture is about 4 times too large!
Ruins the thread.

 

[RWey56]

Sorry. Not having a particularly cerebral day today.

I think I fixed it. Anyway, you should be able to see what I'm talking about.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Nope still huge, but hey it's your thread have at it!

 

[John T]

I did call the dealer tonight and he said it will be covered under warranty, .

drop it off at the dealer and tell em "Fix It"

 

[RWey56]

Nope still huge, but hey it's your thread have at it!

It's fixed. You're looking at the old image cached on your computer.

 

[RWey56]

drop it off at the dealer and tell em "Fix It"

Far far easier to do it myself than to get the tractor to them. Besides, I don't trust anyone yanking the 3rd function valve wires around. Also, I'm giving serious thought to milling it out of a single piece. I need to use my machine tools more anyway.

 

[hodge]

If you have the tools and ability, fix it yourself. Chances are, it will be better. It's fine to get it fixed under warranty, but it will be the same components put back. Your solution can be more robust.

 

[William1]

Sometimes, you just do get a cheesy weld on a production part. The guy welding sneezes and moves on to the next one.
I wager you rewelding the new part is going to be plenty strong enough. Unless you like the challenge 'because it is there', milling a new complete part is a lot of work for little reward. Also, keep in mind the weakest link. Ideally, it is also the least catastrophic part in terms of cost, difficulty in replacement. Imagine you make an unbreakable lever mount and accidental excessive force broke the spool valve? Sort of like fusible links or sheer pins.

 

[ItBmine]

I deleted my pics, but mine just broke off too on my B2620. The lever is just tack welded to the flat plate that bolts to the valve. So now it has a real weld on it.

I can't complain, I have heard of it happening and mine has lasted 6 years, 550 hours of loader work.

Maybe I was supposed to go on all the Kubota forums and say they are the worst tractor ever??? Like most people do, LOL!!!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

RWey56,

It's the reverse, you're seeing what you're altering, but not what posted, the picture is too large.

You need to delete the picture and post a smaller version of what your posting.

FYI: I'm a Mod and I can see more info that the normal view of a member.

 

[RWey56]

I FTP downloaded the image from where I placed it, and it is in fact 640 wide. Not sure where the (older) large one is being cached, but the source my thread is pointing to is the smaller size.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's really a moot point but here is what we see on our end, and this is only about 1/4 of the picture and that's the whole computer screen.

 

[tthorkil]

This is what I see - note that the picture ends at the 'l' in original in the text above the picture.

 

[ItBmine]

Here's how mine broke.