I've been shafted!

GeoHorn

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Isn't Blue Origin Jeff Bezo's thing?
Yes…fingers work faster typing than brain. thx.

The Viper was even used to test-out the handling characteristics of the Delta-Wing which eventually led into the Concorde supersonic airliner.
 
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ejb11235

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It was also used as a target drone engine (and may be still in the Jindivik drone) ..but it was so durable that shooting it down didn’t kill the engine
Ok, I actually read the wikipedia article. For those who don't read the article ... the engine was initially designed as a short-life engine for use in missiles and drones, so perhaps the term "tenacious" might be more appropriate than "durable". Durability arrives with the introduction of the ASV.5 (aka MK101) version, which was designed for crewed aircraft.
 

Orangeglow

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It only goes back together one way to keep the u-joints in phase.
Yup, I found that out on my mower assembly as well. What I did is line them up before installing the mower, and then marking them with a white paint marker, to show where the splines have to be aligned so they will slip together easily, without the frustration of trying 50 positions first.
 

Islandboy54

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Kubota B7500 w/ FEL & mid mower and FEL
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I was doing maintenance on my RCK60B mower deck. While I was greasing the shaft I accidently pulled it apart. I didn’t think anything about it until I tried to put it back together. After all, it slid apart quite easily. It will slide back together. Well, it didn’t. No matter what I have tried it will not got back together. What have I done Wrong? How can I remedy this short of buying a new shaft?
I had to do this on same deck as yours. I had it together but was whining and sounded like metal was grinding every so often. It did not make this noise all the time. Not knowing about the phasing part when putting together I helped it using a ”dead blow” hammer, not good.
That’s when I decided to follow the instructions I saw somewhere and decided to slowly and carefully put together. Here’s what I did.
Clean off both spline shafts, then take a close look on each side and look for the spline that is spaced a little wider than the rest. Put a file mark on each side. Before mating to coupling, make sure that the splines do not have any burrs on it. Run a file through each spline and you can feel which one needs deburrin, do the same for the coupling side. Clean off real good, add grease to coupling and shaft prior to mating, should fall right in. In any case, if it’s not going in easily, do not use a hammer.
 

Henro

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I had to do this on same deck as yours. I had it together but was whining and sounded like metal was grinding every so often. It did not make this noise all the time. Not knowing about the phasing part when putting together I helped it using a ”dead blow” hammer, not good.
That’s when I decided to follow the instructions I saw somewhere and decided to slowly and carefully put together. Here’s what I did.
Clean off both spline shafts, then take a close look on each side and look for the spline that is spaced a little wider than the rest. Put a file mark on each side. Before mating to coupling, make sure that the splines do not have any burrs on it. Run a file through each spline and you can feel which one needs deburrin, do the same for the coupling side. Clean off real good, add grease to coupling and shaft prior to mating, should fall right in. In any case, if it’s not going in easily, do not use a hammer.
So you got it back together while improperly aligned, by using a hammer? Just curious, not being judgemental or anything...Just surprised you could get it back together if not properly aligned.

I have the same deck too (I believe) on my BX2200.
 

GeoHorn

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Ok, I actually read the wikipedia article. For those who don't read the article ... the engine was initially designed as a short-life engine for use in missiles and drones, so perhaps the term "tenacious" might be more appropriate than "durable". Durability arrives with the introduction of the ASV.5 (aka MK101) version, which was designed for crewed aircraft.
Yes, … One of the “durability” improvements was…. the addition of a removable Cap on the oil-tank so the flight or ground-crew could add oil for the next flight. (All versions had a complete-loss* oil/lubrication system…where the oil, once it was distributed to the rear turbine bearing… slipped out of the bearing and was consumed in the exhaust. Adding a re-fillable oil tank meant it could be used repeatedly for further flights. I.E. … all those Vipers were “durable”… later “Re-useable”. :ROFLMAO:
(I flew this particular Viper-powered Hawker for almost a decade:


* complete-loss oil system… like my 1934 Harley VLD. 😜 ( I have no idea why the photos are multiples…)
IMG_20210603_160233309.jpeg
IMG_0031.jpeg
IMG_0031.jpeg
IMG_20210603_160233309.jpeg
IMG_0031.jpeg
 
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fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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Yes, … One of the “durability” improvements was…. the addition of a removable Cap on the oil-tank so the flight or ground-crew could add oil for the next flight. (All versions had a complete-loss* oil/lubrication system…where the oil, once it was distributed to the rear turbine bearing… slipped out of the bearing and was consumed in the exhaust. Adding a re-fillable oil tank meant it could be used repeatedly for further flights. I.E. … all those Vipers were “durable”… later “Re-useable”. :ROFLMAO:
(I flew this particular Viper-powered Hawker for almost a decade:


* complete-loss oil system… like my 1934 Harley VLD. 😜 ( I have no idea why the photos are multiples…) View attachment 101117 View attachment 101118 View attachment 101118 View attachment 101117 View attachment 101118
Cute little airplane.