it don't start

[mykubotaisapos]

i have a b6200 that won't start. It won't do anything. Completely dead.
My battery is good, my cables r good, my grounds r good.
My harness was wacked by the previous owner.But, it never posed a problem.
I have looked for fuses, & a fusible link. I didn't see any.
I'm not very good w/ a multi- meter. I do know how to check the battery, but not anything else for continuity, grounds or anything else.
The lights on dash don't work either. It never did this b4. I've owned this about 5 years. Any help will be appreciated!!!

 

[FishLife]

Is it a Napa battery? When I bought my tractor it had a new battery. Went the day after I got it and nothing worked. Hooked up the battery charger and it said completely charged. Took it to Napa for them to test and it said it had 0 cranking amps. They replaced it under warranty and the tractor started fine after. Just a thought. Or you could have a bad ground.

 

[mykubotaisapos]

no. i forget were i got it. it is good though

 

[FishLife]

no. i forget were i got it. it is good though

It just sounded like an issue I had and thought I would share. Not sure then. I would at least hook something straight to the battery to test it or take it to be tested just to rule it out. If nothing is working I would start there.

 

[Dave_eng]

i have a b6200 that won't start. It won't do anything. Completely dead.
My battery is good, my cables r good, my grounds r good.
My harness was wacked by the previous owner.But, it never posed a problem.
I have looked for fuses, & a fusible link. I didn't see any.
I'm not very good w/ a multi- meter. I do know how to check the battery, but not anything else for continuity, grounds or anything else.
The lights on dash don't work either. It never did this b4. I've owned this about 5 years. Any help will be appreciated!!!

Your tractor has a fusible link in the wiring close to the battery.

The best and cheapest diagnostic tool is a 12 volt test light costing around $10.

On your tractor a fusible link will look like a small loop of wire. When it blows, the metal wire melts but the exterior insulation remains in place to avoid any short circuits. A visible inspection will not tell you its condition.

I have marked the fusible link with a red arrow.

There are manuals at Kubotabooks.com with the wiring diagram.

Near the bottom of the page:

http://kubotabooks.com/AutoIndex/index.php?dir=Tractor Owners Manuals/

With the test light, you connect the alligator clip to the battery ground post and then use the sharp point to detect and trace out the current path from the starter to the key switch.

You may find the current stops at one end of the fusible link.

Do not replace the fusible link with ordinary wire.

Your dealer may be able to order the loop for you. Otherwise wire in a "slow blow fuse" of about 25 amps.

Dave

 

[mykubotaisapos]

I couldn't find a fusible link at all anywhere.
Does anyone know how to use a jumper wire on the clutch safety switch ? That could be the reason. I just might have to make my own wire harness, cause mine is so screwed up !!!

 

[mykubotaisapos]

i looked earlier this morning, & could not find any fusible link. I looked from the alternator back to ign. switch & then down to the battery.
The previous owner really hacked & cut stuff up.
Is there anyone who knows how to use jumper wire for the clutch safety switch? I read about it in other posts. I know were mine is, it has the 2 wires going to it.
It's pretty weird how this thing ran fine for the past 5 yrs or so, then in oct. it won;t do a dam thing. But the battery is fine !!!

 

[armylifer]

Why did you choose your user name? Just curious. If you think that your Kubota is such a POS why do you keep it? Just asking a question. Is it really that bad of a machine?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Do you have a test light, you need it to figure out what you have and what you don't.
Jumping the safety switch for the clutch ain't going to do squat for you if there is no power get into or coming from the switch.

 

[Dave_eng]

i looked earlier this morning, & could not find any fusible link. I looked from the alternator back to ign. switch & then down to the battery.
The previous owner really hacked & cut stuff up.
Is there anyone who knows how to use jumper wire for the clutch safety switch? I read about it in other posts. I know were mine is, it has the 2 wires going to it.
It's pretty weird how this thing ran fine for the past 5 yrs or so, then in oct. it won;t do a dam thing. But the battery is fine !!!

Post some photos of the dynamo and starter area.

If you cannot yet post on the forum, send me a PM and we will arrange to exchange emails.

Dave

 

[D2Cat]

I agree with Armylifer, why not part the tractor out, after all it is a POS! Kind of interesting it has ran for 5 years in the condition you describe.

You're an interesting personality. Come as a newbie to a Kubota forum and declare the thing you want help with is a POS

The harness has been wacked, can't find any fuses, no fusable link, dash light don't work, won't start... and you're not familiar with a test light. Put it on the Buy Sell Trade thread. Someone might buy your POS and resurrect it into a real jewel.

If you're really interested in getting it going, take the battery out and to a local auto supply and have them test it under a load. Then clean the battery terminals. Clean the battery cable clamps at the battery. Remove the black cable (at the negative battery post) where it attaches to the tractor frame. Clean the cable connector until it shines, then remove all the rust and gunk on the frame where the bolt goes. Then reconnect the cable. The first step cost nothing but time, and may get you going.

Next step is go to YouTube and look up how to use a test light. Once you get the idea you can follow circuits to determine where wiring fails, so it can be fixed.

 

[mykubotaisapos]

I wanted to hook up my ign switch today. But I looked at the back of the OEM switch & it has numbers' except for a post marked acc, for accessory. But my other switch has posts for ignition switch, accessory, battery & I forget the other.. I need to know what goes were. There are no wires going to the battery. 2 posts on OEM switch go to the glow plug heater. I did connect the accessory post. I need to connect them all in order to c if it fires up. I really need to get this running to get it inside my garage. It sits outside, but it is covered.

 

[Cathy Liebchen]

Re: it don't (sic) start

"The previous owner really hacked & cut stuff up." Sounds like this is the issue- bought a used one and have no mechanical aptitude. No problem, its easy to learn how to work on them. Or hire a tractor mechanic- around here there are a couple of independent guys with service trucks that will come out and work on them for reasonable cost.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I need to connect them all in order to c if it fires up. I really need to get this running to get it inside my garage. It sits outside, but it is covered.

You don't need to hook up the switch to get it to run, make sure it's in neural, jump the large terminal on the starter with the small terminal and it will crank and start.
If it's cold, use a jumper wire from the Pos (+) on the battery to the glow plugs, remove wire once it starts.

 

[mykubotaisapos]

Update:. I messed around some more & it started with a short burst. Then it stopped. I wonder if it is the solenoid ? Or starter itself. I asked someone local to me. At least he didn't insult me & nor did he tell me I lack mechanical appitude or tell me to tear it apart like an idiot would. I know that the wires aren't great & previous owner really hacked it. I'm obviously going to have to get or make a new harness. I just got a manual. I may know electrical very good it doesn't mean I lack mechanical appitude. I'm a gear head, I just don't know electrical very good. I'm not looking for insults all I want is help !!!

 

[Jim L.]

I think that you have gotten off on the wrong foot by calling your machine a POS in a forum of tractor lovers. We can hopefully get beyond that because it appears that you are sincere in wanting help.

I would make copies of the schematics in the manual. Use transparent tape or paste them to a backer to get a full diagram. I would them use the copy to check out the harness wire by wire, using color highliters to designate good, iffy, and bad circuits. This may take awhile, but it sounds necessary.

I doubt that you will find a new harness at a reasonable price. Making a new harness may be difficult in matching the existing connectors. That leaves repairing the existing harness back to functional condition.

The manual will show the color code by using letters. The wire sizes are in metric which can be converted to AWG by using a table. New wires must be stranded, not solid, and covered with automotive grade insulation; resistant to oil and gas.

Connectors that you want are marine grade. These will not be found at the big box stores, as they carry the cheap plastic kind.

Heat shrink may be needed at some connections. A heat gun or heat source will be needed.

Connections will be crimped. Crimped connections must have the wire pulled on to make sure that it is a good crimp.

Components such as solenoids, relays, etc, may be checked by using the procedures in the manual.

If help is needed to find a specific connector, post a good picture with scale and a replacement might be found using this forum.

When you need specific help, use the parts nomenclature as found in the manual. Finally, avoid getting discouraged or impatient. Help is here if you ask for it.

 

[greeno]

I think that you have gotten off on the wrong foot by calling your machine a POS in a forum of tractor lovers.

Help is here if you ask for it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Talenel]

I think that you have gotten off on the wrong foot by calling your machine a POS in a forum of tractor lovers. We can hopefully get beyond that because it appears that you are sincere in wanting help.

I would make copies of the schematics in the manual. Use transparent tape or paste them to a backer to get a full diagram. I would them use the copy to check out the harness wire by wire, using color highliters to designate good, iffy, and bad circuits. This may take awhile, but it sounds necessary.

I doubt that you will find a new harness at a reasonable price. Making a new harness may be difficult in matching the existing connectors. That leaves repairing the existing harness back to functional condition.

The manual will show the color code by using letters. The wire sizes are in metric which can be converted to AWG by using a table. New wires must be stranded, not solid, and covered with automotive grade insulation; resistant to oil and gas.

Connectors that you want are marine grade. These will not be found at the big box stores, as they carry the cheap plastic kind.

Heat shrink may be needed at some connections. A heat gun or heat source will be needed.

Connections will be crimped. Crimped connections must have the wire pulled on to make sure that it is a good crimp.

Components such as solenoids, relays, etc, may be checked by using the procedures in the manual.

If help is needed to find a specific connector, post a good picture with scale and a replacement might be found using this forum.

When you need specific help, use the parts nomenclature as found in the manual. Finally, avoid getting discouraged or impatient. Help is here if you ask for it.

Good post.

I'll add that getting even a cheap multi meter will help out (then you could test the fuseable link if you find it). Most electrical problem can be tested with a simple multi meter (voltage and continuity testing) and a power source (if testing relays).


You will thank yourself later if you use marine grade connectors, they usually have heat shrink and a low melt solder in them(you still crimp them first), way better connections, and last.


Google, Bing etc are your friend when trying to figure this stuff out.


Btw your 2 wires going to your clutch can only be a NC (normally closed in running position) or a NO (normally open in running position) meaning the circuit is closed (NC) or open (no circuit/or continuity).

Does anyone know if these tractors are sourced wired or sink? All the Japanese presses I work on are sinked.

 

[mykubotaisapos]

i made it to a parts store today. they said it was at half of cca.
so now it is getting charged.
i will try this coming weekend to mess w/ it more.
It did try to start a few days ago. it actually made a attempt & the fan turned & the starter purred a little.
I did find a used harness from wktp.
i haven't seen any pics of it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I don't think just charging the battery is going to do it, it sounds like it's dead.