Figure 1 shows the hydraulic line of my current tractor, and Figure 2 shows the plan for adding a slide valve. Is this correct? In fact, I can't see the structure from 3PT to PUMP. I just guessed it based on the knowledge of seniors.
Is this the correct plan for adding a slide valve?
- Thread starter sumking
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both diagrams leave out an important component. I don't have the diagrams anymore, but power beyond is what you're missing. I'll let the guys who're more up-to-date (and explain things better than I), explain where you're wrong.
Russell King
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I am not sure what you are referring to as “slide valve” but assume you want to add a “spool valve” as you show in diagram two. Further I assume that you want to use the new valve to control top and tilt cylinders for three point implements. And that you will not have the backhoe mounted when you need to use the new valve (the backhoe valve is also removed when you remove the backhoe.
If any of these are bad assumptions, then some of this will need modification.
Your diagram is correct in that the pump takes oil out of the sump and supplies flow to a block on the tractor. The block has three connections, a supply of flow out to the pressure port of a valve, a flow return point from the valve and a low pressure port for flow out of the active cylinder.
If nothing is connected to that block the pump flow goes directly to the three point hitch and then dumps back to sump.
The system is open center so fluid flows through the valves in series. Nothing but the tank return lines can be teed together.
So since you already have a front end loader and a back hoe the flow becomes pump to block P out port, to FEL valve P in, through the FEL valve, out the Power Beyond (PB) port, to the backhoe P in on the valve, through the valve, out the PB port and back to the tractor block, into the 3PH valve and back to the sump.
The FEL and backhoe valve will have a T tank return port that goes to the tractor block T port and dumps into the sump.
When you remove the backhoe you connect the P in line to the PB out hose so the flow path is the same just not through the backhoe valve.
So to add another valve you can connect the PB out of the backhoe to the P in on the new valve. Then the PB out of the new valve is connected to the hose that had been connected to the backhoe PB out port. Then the tank return line from new valve gets teed into a tank return line that already exists. If the backhoe is removed you can simply use the new valve in place of the backhoe valve.
Hope that makes sense but you may want to search posts by @TheOldHokie on adding “rear remotes”
If any of these are bad assumptions, then some of this will need modification.
Your diagram is correct in that the pump takes oil out of the sump and supplies flow to a block on the tractor. The block has three connections, a supply of flow out to the pressure port of a valve, a flow return point from the valve and a low pressure port for flow out of the active cylinder.
If nothing is connected to that block the pump flow goes directly to the three point hitch and then dumps back to sump.
The system is open center so fluid flows through the valves in series. Nothing but the tank return lines can be teed together.
So since you already have a front end loader and a back hoe the flow becomes pump to block P out port, to FEL valve P in, through the FEL valve, out the Power Beyond (PB) port, to the backhoe P in on the valve, through the valve, out the PB port and back to the tractor block, into the 3PH valve and back to the sump.
The FEL and backhoe valve will have a T tank return port that goes to the tractor block T port and dumps into the sump.
When you remove the backhoe you connect the P in line to the PB out hose so the flow path is the same just not through the backhoe valve.
So to add another valve you can connect the PB out of the backhoe to the P in on the new valve. Then the PB out of the new valve is connected to the hose that had been connected to the backhoe PB out port. Then the tank return line from new valve gets teed into a tank return line that already exists. If the backhoe is removed you can simply use the new valve in place of the backhoe valve.
Hope that makes sense but you may want to search posts by @TheOldHokie on adding “rear remotes”
TheOldHokie
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I will try to fix up his diagram but lets clear one thing up here.
His backhoe (BH77) does not have a power beyond port. It only has a T port that returns to tank via the 3pt valve which must be disabled (position control full down) when the backhoe is conn̈ected. The backhoe valve must always be last in the chain and cannot be used to power another valve.
The valve he is adding gets inserted in the line that currently connects the T port on the 3rd function valve to the backhoe
Dan
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TheOldHokie
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Your first drawing is not correct. Close but no banana.
The 3rd function is not connected to the hydraulic outlet. That hose goes to the backhoe valve. I am busy all morning today but I will try to correct both diagrams this afternoon.
Dan
TheOldHokie
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Here is your diagram of your tractors current circuit with my corrections. Flow is as follows:
Tank-->Pump-->Loader-->3rd function-->Backhoe-->3pt-->Tank
Mull on that a bit and then we can discuss where your new valve goes in that picture
Dan
GreensvilleJay
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comments....
1st... which tractor ? I do not 'assume' that the one in your sidebar bio IS the tractor in question.
2nd.. see if Kubota HAS an addon 'kit'. While more coins,it WILL fit and work.
3rd... consider TWO (2) valves. often a 'double' kit isn't that much more money and next year,when you need the 2nd, you'll see why it's a good idea...
1st... which tractor ? I do not 'assume' that the one in your sidebar bio IS the tractor in question.
2nd.. see if Kubota HAS an addon 'kit'. While more coins,it WILL fit and work.
3rd... consider TWO (2) valves. often a 'double' kit isn't that much more money and next year,when you need the 2nd, you'll see why it's a good idea...
Sorry for my bad English, yes, I mean the slide valve, I want to use it to control the hydraulic snow blower
Sorry, due to my carelessness, the pipeline back to the fuel tank was drawn incorrectly. Thank you for your careful correction. However, I checked all the pipelines again and found that my 3RD is indeed in the position shown in my picture. And I have been using it normally for a year. That is, it goes before the loader valve, not after it, and it's "land pride" installed by the dealer.
The double valve you mean, is it a 2-set valve? I am planning to install a 4-set valve, yes, my tractor is 2502
TheOldHokie
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Putting the 3rd function ahead of the loader is different than the way its done here but more a matter of preference than function. With loader first dump/curl will block operation of the grapple jaws so some might think putting the grapple first is actually better.
You seem to have it figured out. Just make sure the backhoe is always last. We did have a case recently where a dealership installed a Landpride 3rd function after the backhoe and they replaced/repaired the backhoe valve three times before it was finally identified and corrected!!!
Four spools is a lot of plumbing hanging off the back of an L02
Post a picture or two of the finished project Dan
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Yes, these are just habits. In this year, I have used the claws a lot, and I may have been used to getting to the position first and then grabbing. Therefore, I should never be able to make the action of throwing a stump in motion, haha.Putting the 3rd function ahead of the loader is different than the way its done here but more a matter of preference than function. With loader first dump/curl will block operation of the grapple jaws so some might think putting the grapple first is actually better.
You seem to have it figured out. Just make sure the backhoe is always last. We did have a case recently where a dealership installed a Landpride 3rd function after the backhoe and they replaced/repaired the backhoe valve three times before it was finally identified and corrected!!!
Four spools is a lot of plumbing hanging off the back of an L02
Dan
Regarding the slide valve, in fact, I only need 2 channels at present, but the difference between 2 channels and 4 channels is only $150. The cost of the valve itself, and the cost of the connecting line is the same. In case it is needed in the future, who knows.
However, due to the installation of the backhoe, the rear crossbeam of the L2502 is removed, and the position of the valve cannot affect the BH operation. It may only be installed on the roll cage. Do you have any good location suggestions?
TheOldHokie
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I have experimented wirh various locations on my L3901 (no backhoe) and the location I liked best was on top of the right fender. With a backhoe the outlets pretty much have to be on the ROPS.
Dan
It was really difficult to find a suitable location because there was a backhoe, so I needed to consider the backhoe driver's activities and the space to get off the vehicle. Since I used a mechanical switch, I needed to consider the physical space of the valve switch. I also needed to consider the tractor accidentally falling and avoid letting the valve touch the ground directly. After several days of simulated installation, I finally chose this location.
Next, I plan to connect the hydraulic pipes, and I would like to ask a few new questions:
1. What are the rules for the various male and female connectors on the tractor? Or in theory, as long as they are connected correctly, it doesn't matter whether the connectors of different specifications are here or there?
2. Why are the connectors on the valve base all female?
3. I want to buy a hydraulic rotary snow blower. Can my 2502 6.8 gpm drive the hydraulic motor? Or can it only drive the hydraulic cylinder?
1. What are the rules for the various male and female connectors on the tractor? Or in theory, as long as they are connected correctly, it doesn't matter whether the connectors of different specifications are here or there?
2. Why are the connectors on the valve base all female?
3. I want to buy a hydraulic rotary snow blower. Can my 2502 6.8 gpm drive the hydraulic motor? Or can it only drive the hydraulic cylinder?
TheOldHokie
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- The connectors have to match both in type and size. Are you talking about hose and pipe fittings or quick couplers?
- Valves have female ports as ordained by God.
- Unlikely you will find a hydrauluc snowblower that will run on 6.5 GPM. They require 3 times or more than that.
Dan
Yes, I mean hose and pipe fittings or quick couplers, because my tractor now has two sizes of quick couplers and different sizes of hoses, because our hydraulic store here is like a supermarket, the clerks don't know anything about it, but it's very convenient to purchase and return.
Maybe I misunderstood again, I didn't mean the hydraulically driven snow blowing function, but the hydraulic chute rotation of the snow blower. I think it must be fine to drive the cylinder, but this simple valve and 6.5 GPM can drive the motor-controlled chute?
To be honest, I don't know which is better, a cylinder or motor-controlled chute, I just think that motors are simpler and more direct, while cylinders require some rotating arms to assist
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TheOldHokie
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Its not uncommon to have different size
quick couplers and standards on the tractor.
Rear couplers are pretty much standardized around 1/2" ISO 5675 with the female half mounted on the tractor. Front couplers are often smaller and different standards. Which gender goes on thd tractor side us more individual preferenc we than standard.
Kubota likes to use 3/8" ISO 7241B couplers on loaders and third functions. Third parties are a crap shoot and you need to ask them for specifics.
Hose and port fittings are a mix of things. Ports on Kubota tractors are almost always BSPP and the external ports on their valves are almost akways SAE ORB. . Hose fittings are almost always female JIC swivels and male JIC to male ORB or male JIC to male BSPP adapters are used for the port connections. A 3/8" hose is more than adequate for everything on a 6 GPM tractor. Using 1/2" hose is a waste of space and money.
Again third party stuff is a crap shoot.
Does that answer your questions?
Dan
Thank you for your patience in providing so much information, but for a novice who is in contact with hydraulics for the first time, these terms are too professional. I have no idea at all. OK, I have now checked the approximate appearance of the product corresponding to each digital term, and plan to use the most primitive method, remove the Kubota hose that needs to be replaced, and take my valve body to the store to compare them one by one.
What I need to do is,
Remove the green hose from the loader valve and connect it to the valve through a suitable adapter,
Buy another hose to connect the valve and the loader green interface,
The last hose connects the T of the valve and the T port of the block. Since there is already a hose for the loader valve on the T port, a suitable tee is needed
My previous question, maybe my expression was wrong again, I didn't mean the hydraulically driven snow blowing function, but the hydraulic chute rotation of the snow blower. I think it must be fine to drive the cylinder, but this simple valve and 6.5 GPM can drive the motor-controlled chute? To be honest, I don't know which is better, a cylinder or motor-controlled chute, I just think that motors are simpler and more direct, while cylinders require some rotating arms to assist
Also, are the original quick connectors on snow blowers usually one male and one female?
Also, are the original quick connectors on snow blowers usually one male and one female?