I have a L245DT (1977?) The fan belt broke and antifreeze started to boil over. I put a new belt on and it ran fine in the yard. Fan was turning. I started bush hogging and it began to squeal loudly for a few seconds and then the belt was smoking and the fan is not turning. Pulley seized up I think? Is the water pump bad?
Is the water pump bad?
- Thread starter Janet horselover
- Start date
Remove the belt and check all pulleys it drove..... water pump and alternator/generator.
Bearings do fail. It should be obvious which pulley is not rotating easily.
Dave
Thanks Dave. I have everything off to the pulley at the water pump. Not sure how that is removed???? Is it pressed on? I'm pretty sure it is the bearings. I have no idea what I'm doing, but I'm trying.
Does the water pump pulley rotate easily by hand? The alternator pulley? If you can't rotate the water pump pulley you are probably looking at a new water pump. I've never replaced bearings in one. Alternator bearings are relatively easy.
Look at the attached parts photo of the water pump.
It shows the extent of the bolts to be removed which is unusual as the pump incorporates a casting for a water passage where commonly you would see a hose.
I think but cannot be certain it also shows that the pulley is held on by the same bolts holding the fan. I think the orange colored nut is holding the water pump assembly together
The parts illustrations available are of very poor quality.
Buying a complete pump would be wise. You could rebuild yours but might find the impeller is badly corroded, seal and bearing seats are corroded, etc.
Be certain to buy the water pump gasket as well.
Dave
I would lean to the alternator locking up..never had a water pump lock up but not saying it couldnt..check all the pulleys and idlers like the previous post suggested.
Word to the wise -- If you end up replacing the waterpump, get REAL OEM Kubota replacement.
(I orderd an offshore-brand waterpump 'cuz it was about 1/4 the price of OEM..... It took me over 2 hours to 'modify' the impeller so it would not interfere with the block when it turned. )
(I orderd an offshore-brand waterpump 'cuz it was about 1/4 the price of OEM..... It took me over 2 hours to 'modify' the impeller so it would not interfere with the block when it turned. )
From my own experience, I can say that the problem is most likely in the bearings. Moreover, this is a very unpleasant breakdown. I have had this several times, and as I have already understood over the years, it is better to just buy a new pump. You can try one of these https://www.sumppumpadvisor.com/best-rv-water-pump/. There are both surface and submersible. I don’t know for what purpose you are going to use the pump, purify and pump water, water the garden or something else. Therefore, I can also suggest you take a look at centrifugal pumps. Centrifugal pumps are considered universal: they are convenient to use both in everyday life and in production. But, of course, it is better to know for what specific purpose one or another type of water pump is intended.
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Not sure what the previous poster has been drinking…but it must be good…
I have had a consistent failure of water pumps after using “radiatior“ cleaning agents. Thinking I was doing the right thing I‘ve bought and used various products which claim to clean out the radiator and flush the cooling system..and without fail…. shortly thereafter lost the water pump.
So I quit using such products about 40 years ago. Most of them use caustic soda or some similar chemical which I believe kills the impeller-bearing.
I resorted to flushing them with water only and never had that problem again.
When the pumps failed their bearings seized and the heat destroyed the seals.
I have had a consistent failure of water pumps after using “radiatior“ cleaning agents. Thinking I was doing the right thing I‘ve bought and used various products which claim to clean out the radiator and flush the cooling system..and without fail…. shortly thereafter lost the water pump.
So I quit using such products about 40 years ago. Most of them use caustic soda or some similar chemical which I believe kills the impeller-bearing.
I resorted to flushing them with water only and never had that problem again.
When the pumps failed their bearings seized and the heat destroyed the seals.
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I have been cleaning radiators for decades with an old family recipe. 2 cups of Arm & Hammer washing soda mixed with hot water, and poured into the radiator after it is drained, the lower radiator hose is removed and put back on without the use of the clamp, and also removing the thermostat. Pour the solution into the radiator and fill it with water. Run the engine until it is hot, turn off the engine and pull the lower radiator hose off of the radiator and let drain till the engine is cold. Reinstall the lower radiator hose and repeat treatment until the water coming out shows no sign of rust and is white in color. Do a flush with a box of Arm & Hammer baking soda, for 10 minutes, and then let the engine cool, and do a final flush with plain water and drain. Reinstall the thermostat and lower radiator hose clamp, and fill with antifreeze and distilled water. Never have lost a water pump using this method. It does clean out the scum inside of the block that water itself can't touch. If you look at the antifreeze it will be a green color just like it was when you installed it because it puts a protective layer onto the inside of the block that is supposed to protect the engine from rust, but in reality, with age, the rust inhibitors wear out and most people don't change antifreeze according to the maintenance schedule.
Most water pump failures don't lead to them seizing and I believe that the other person will find that a belt tensioner or alternator is the actual problem. No mater what it is, they will only find out once they remove the belt and attempt to turn every item that is supposed to turn but doesn't. This isn't rocket science, but common sense. I have always felt that if someone can't figure out something as simple as a belt not turning, then they most likely will get into bigger trouble if they attempt a repair of the cause. Some people are mechanical by nature and others are not, and there is nothing to be ashamed of to admit that it is beyond your capabilities. That is what makes us all different. I know of doctors that can do intricate surgeries, but don't or don't want to learn how to hold a wrench or screwdriver. It is not in their DNA to be anything other than a mechanic that works on human bodies, not cars or tractors. My veterinarian is just the opposite, he can do intricate surgeries with ease, and he uses a tractor, and knows how to repair it when necessary. He is also an accomplished woodworker and cabinet maker.
Most water pump failures don't lead to them seizing and I believe that the other person will find that a belt tensioner or alternator is the actual problem. No mater what it is, they will only find out once they remove the belt and attempt to turn every item that is supposed to turn but doesn't. This isn't rocket science, but common sense. I have always felt that if someone can't figure out something as simple as a belt not turning, then they most likely will get into bigger trouble if they attempt a repair of the cause. Some people are mechanical by nature and others are not, and there is nothing to be ashamed of to admit that it is beyond your capabilities. That is what makes us all different. I know of doctors that can do intricate surgeries, but don't or don't want to learn how to hold a wrench or screwdriver. It is not in their DNA to be anything other than a mechanic that works on human bodies, not cars or tractors. My veterinarian is just the opposite, he can do intricate surgeries with ease, and he uses a tractor, and knows how to repair it when necessary. He is also an accomplished woodworker and cabinet maker.