I am looking at purchasing my first Sub-compact tractor, moving up from a Lawn Tractor and a ZTR. I have 1 Acre of land, mostly grass with some trees. I want a mid-mount mower and a loader for spreading much and general hard clean-up. The only other task I will use this for is backing trailers in to my side-loaded shop. I asked 1 salesman and he said that the 18hp is not enough, the next salesman I spoke to said it was plenty if I went with the 48” deck. He also pointed out that the 48“ deck would typically leave a better cut. Anyone have or have had the 1880 and have an opinion on whether this is enough or not?
Is the BX1880 enough
- Thread starter Johnw32
- Start date
Grass is not the same. Depends how long it is when you mow it, how fast you want to drive (or can, if your ground isn't level), how fussy you are about the cut quality. I think plenty of people are running the 54 inch deck on that, the 60 inch would be a stretch. You can easily run the 60 inch on the 23HP though.
The 48 inch would be less prone to scalp, and for 1 acre of grass you're probably not going to materially add to your mowing time v's a 54 or 60 inch.
It is true that there isn't a lot of difference in price between the 18 and the 23, and I'm pretty sure you'd never regret getting the more powerful machine. They also have different tire setups, the 23 being larger. I suspect that's also something that could make you happy over time.
Ultimately any BX will make you happier than a lawn tractor. Once you have the FEL you'll wonder how you ever lived without one.
The 48 inch would be less prone to scalp, and for 1 acre of grass you're probably not going to materially add to your mowing time v's a 54 or 60 inch.
It is true that there isn't a lot of difference in price between the 18 and the 23, and I'm pretty sure you'd never regret getting the more powerful machine. They also have different tire setups, the 23 being larger. I suspect that's also something that could make you happy over time.
Ultimately any BX will make you happier than a lawn tractor. Once you have the FEL you'll wonder how you ever lived without one.
I used 2 lawn tractors for 20 years with bar tread rear tires to contend with hills on my 20 acres. We mow about 3ac of it. I had transaxle trouble with both. I was shopping for a new one and everyone was telling me I cannot use bar tread with hydrostat because I will take out the transmission and void the warranty. I then turned to looking for a 4WD subcompact. I quickly decided on Kabota then it took me about 45 days to figure out which BX I wanted. I quickly realized that at my age this tractor will outlast me and I needed to get what I wanted the first time around. The 2380 comes with cruise control, bigger tires, a better seat, more HP, and more over the 1880. I went with the BX 2380, FEL with quick attach, 54 inch mid mount mower, third function valve for front hydraulics and a grapple to start with. And I have lots of options for the future. I use this https://www.palletforks.com/3-point...iler-hitch-quick-hitch-compatible/191201.html to move trailers and tug and pull stuff. I Purchased it in April 2019 and have no regrets whatsoever other than wishing I had done it sooner.
Ron
Ron
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
papadiver's rig seems pretty well what you need.... though you'll need to add rear ballast when doing heavier loader operations.
Since I've sold my 1ac 'hobby farm' , I have no real need for my 3yr old/500hr BX23S ,but it's been a great 'match' for the property.
Since I've sold my 1ac 'hobby farm' , I have no real need for my 3yr old/500hr BX23S ,but it's been a great 'match' for the property.
85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
I too would op for the little "bigger" machine in the 23XX series - new or used. It will do all that you want to do.
AS for cutting - a wider deck will scalp IF ground is uneven - a narrow MMM will not scalp as bad since it has less path to follow. IF your "yard" is somewhat flat - I would go with the 60" deck - cutting 5 ft at a time it will make short work of grass. A better cut is very subjective - if blades are sharp it will cut fine.
Any machine will move a trailer per say on FLAT ground - the two pieces of moving something are going up inclines and going down slopes - both will get you into a worlds of trouble if not well thought out.
I have seen BX's move RV's and Boats ........ on flat ground at about 1 mph...... slow and easy.
HOWEVER - I would only move either while in 4WD thus having hydraulic braking on all 4 wheels.
AS for cutting - a wider deck will scalp IF ground is uneven - a narrow MMM will not scalp as bad since it has less path to follow. IF your "yard" is somewhat flat - I would go with the 60" deck - cutting 5 ft at a time it will make short work of grass. A better cut is very subjective - if blades are sharp it will cut fine.
Any machine will move a trailer per say on FLAT ground - the two pieces of moving something are going up inclines and going down slopes - both will get you into a worlds of trouble if not well thought out.
I have seen BX's move RV's and Boats ........ on flat ground at about 1 mph...... slow and easy.
HOWEVER - I would only move either while in 4WD thus having hydraulic braking on all 4 wheels.
1 acre is not a lot. The smaller BX will probably do everything you want it to.
A wider MMM may stick out more and make cutting close to things easier.
IF the cost difference is not much, I would go with the increased HP offered in other models, just because I would want to be sure I had what I might need for the long run.
My BX2200 is going on 18 years old now. I mow about 5 acres with it...it is a workhorse for its size. No loader though, as I have a loader on my larger B series. Both my tractors are OLD at almost 20 years. I bought them new. Chances are they will outlive me.
Buy the best you can for your needs, as you will be buying something that will serve you well for a LONG time...
Edit: OK, I agree that 20 years on a Kubota does not make it OLD...poor choice of words...advance damage control...ROFL
A wider MMM may stick out more and make cutting close to things easier.
IF the cost difference is not much, I would go with the increased HP offered in other models, just because I would want to be sure I had what I might need for the long run.
My BX2200 is going on 18 years old now. I mow about 5 acres with it...it is a workhorse for its size. No loader though, as I have a loader on my larger B series. Both my tractors are OLD at almost 20 years. I bought them new. Chances are they will outlive me.
Buy the best you can for your needs, as you will be buying something that will serve you well for a LONG time...
Edit: OK, I agree that 20 years on a Kubota does not make it OLD...poor choice of words...advance damage control...ROFL
I may sound like a broken record player because I say this so much here:
I'm a new BX23S owner, and a lawn geek. Milorganite, soil tests and all that.
I don't know what a BX1880 weighs, but my BX23S weighs 1600 lbs. Way way too heavy for weekly mowing. I recently installed a patio with my tractor, and the lawn that I continually drove over was steamrolled to hard-pan dirt, this is with turf tires.
IMHO stick to zero turns for mowing, they are heavy enough.
MHO, YMMV
Paul
I'm a new BX23S owner, and a lawn geek. Milorganite, soil tests and all that.
I don't know what a BX1880 weighs, but my BX23S weighs 1600 lbs. Way way too heavy for weekly mowing. I recently installed a patio with my tractor, and the lawn that I continually drove over was steamrolled to hard-pan dirt, this is with turf tires.
IMHO stick to zero turns for mowing, they are heavy enough.
MHO, YMMV
Paul
I'm not so sure spinning around on a 1,300 pound ZTR is going to be much easier on a lawn than a BX.
Yes a Scag, or the Ferris I mow with. The larger Ferris mowers weigh over 1,700 pounds.
ah, so that's why my neighbors professionally cut and cared for lawns look like crap. 
I'll modify my advice: Mowing with anything that heavy requires significant mechanical aeration, twice a year. IF you want a showpiece lawn.
I'll modify my advice: Mowing with anything that heavy requires significant mechanical aeration, twice a year. IF you want a showpiece lawn.
To my mind compaction is driven by surface pressure. Zero turns typically have smaller wheels, and most of the weight on only two wheels. A BX also has reasonably small wheels (bigger than a zero turn, and more spread over 4 of them), my B2601 weighs only a little more than a BX with quite substantially more footprint on the yard. I mow quite often, but my ground doesn't appear overly compacted. Like everything, people have different thresholds (and also different soil types and many other variables). I don't consider a BX a problem for mowing.
I would strongly recommend removing the FEL for mowing though, there's quite a bit of weight in that, and it's all over the small front wheels. It also bangs into things and results in you having to fix the things you break.
I would strongly recommend removing the FEL for mowing though, there's quite a bit of weight in that, and it's all over the small front wheels. It also bangs into things and results in you having to fix the things you break.
xrocketengineer
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1880, FEL, Grapple, 36 in. Forks, 48in. MMM, Quick Spade, Ripper
Well, I have a BX1880 which I purchased new in October 2019 with a 48in MMM, pin on bucket and a 48 in Land Pride grapple claw. I only have 1 acre. I wanted the smallest and lightest tractor with 4X4 that I could mow with and fit through my gates since my 38 in. Husqvarna would get stuck left and right with very little warning.
I chose the pin on bucket in order to have a little more lifting margin and immediately bought the AI2 Quick Attach 2.8 specifically for the BXxx80. The previous version will not fit. If I had gone with the heavier SSQA, the grapple would have been 54 inches. Being larger and heavier would have created storage problems besides the additional dead weight. I later purchased a set of 36 in forks and a Paumco Quick Spade.
This is what I have learned so far. I have not felt a lack of power at any point neither mowing or using the FEL. The grapple has been a blessing when cutting down and hauling out a whole bunch of palm trees that had grown out of control. All this work had to be done while the soil was dry. Once the rains came in, the weight of the FEL would sink the front tires to the axle.
I used the Quick Spade and the forks to build a French drain about 115 ft. long that I would not have been able to do by hand.
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/paumco-quick-spade-on-bx1880.48402/
The bar tires will wipe out the lawn, particularly if it is soggy. They have very good traction once they have dug down all the way to China. By then it is too late for the lawn. I recently bought a set of larger all "terrain tires" that I am hoping that will give my lawn a break. I am not expecting miracles tough.
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/bx1880-upgraded-tires.48380/
The BX1880 original tires are definitely undersized and I don't know if the turf tires would make it better. If your property is flat, the turf tires might work. In my case I have low spots, high spots, ruts and a bunch of tree roots.
I just had the tractor fixed under warranty for an oil leak from the FEL disconnect area that was dripping on the right floor board. The dealer didn't even bother to clean up the area. After I check the tractor for any further leaks, the next project is to buy some fill dirt to see if I can improve the lot drainage some. So far it does what I need.
I chose the pin on bucket in order to have a little more lifting margin and immediately bought the AI2 Quick Attach 2.8 specifically for the BXxx80. The previous version will not fit. If I had gone with the heavier SSQA, the grapple would have been 54 inches. Being larger and heavier would have created storage problems besides the additional dead weight. I later purchased a set of 36 in forks and a Paumco Quick Spade.
This is what I have learned so far. I have not felt a lack of power at any point neither mowing or using the FEL. The grapple has been a blessing when cutting down and hauling out a whole bunch of palm trees that had grown out of control. All this work had to be done while the soil was dry. Once the rains came in, the weight of the FEL would sink the front tires to the axle.
I used the Quick Spade and the forks to build a French drain about 115 ft. long that I would not have been able to do by hand.
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/paumco-quick-spade-on-bx1880.48402/
The bar tires will wipe out the lawn, particularly if it is soggy. They have very good traction once they have dug down all the way to China. By then it is too late for the lawn. I recently bought a set of larger all "terrain tires" that I am hoping that will give my lawn a break. I am not expecting miracles tough.
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/bx1880-upgraded-tires.48380/
The BX1880 original tires are definitely undersized and I don't know if the turf tires would make it better. If your property is flat, the turf tires might work. In my case I have low spots, high spots, ruts and a bunch of tree roots.
I just had the tractor fixed under warranty for an oil leak from the FEL disconnect area that was dripping on the right floor board. The dealer didn't even bother to clean up the area. After I check the tractor for any further leaks, the next project is to buy some fill dirt to see if I can improve the lot drainage some. So far it does what I need.
Yes you will need a ballast. I made mine. I used a plastic 30 gal drum. Cut the top off and run a hitch bar through the center and a center link hook on top. hooked them together with some rebar and filled it with concrete. It weighs about 450lbs. It works real good! Very necessary when I use the grapple!
Last edited:
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Probably the easiest 'ballast' setup is to have the 'ballast' in a box, on a skid. Then mount a 'carryall' on the 3PH. That way you can EASILY load/unload the ballast as required. My 'carryall' has a 2" rcvr in it, so moving trailers is easy as well.
xrocketengineer
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1880, FEL, Grapple, 36 in. Forks, 48in. MMM, Quick Spade, Ripper
This is my cheap ballast. A $45 cargo carrier and 4 (I over guesstimated) 16X16X4 in. concrete blocks. About 89 lbs. per block, total 356 lbs.
Last edited:
I picked up a BX1860 after pricing a new BX2370 a few years back. I couldnt justify the cost of the new one. I planned to do all my landscaping myself to save some money and end up with a tractor at the end. I mow just under 1 acre (54" deck) and mostly sloped yard so I wanted 4wd after watching the neighbors get stuck on their ride on. I also maintain 300ft driveway with a 50x50 parking area. Snow removal is left to a contractor for now as I am out of town often for work.
I think the 18 is plenty capable. Wet tall grass uphill in 4wd and I can loose a few rpm, slow down a bit and everything is good. Great little machine if your looking to upgrade from a ride on.
Check out a post I made showing some of the landscaping projects I did with this little machine: BX1860
I also till with this machine and use a flail mower. The flail struggles on overgrown 3ft grass that hasn't been touched for 20 years. Mowing once a year after the initial cut and it does better if I take my time. Thin brush is easier to cut then grass I find. I also have a tiller and have no issues with this at all. I do tilling on the side and plan to until I pay off the tractor with tilling income. I started in the fall before winter hit and was doing $400 a month in profit. Tilled some 150 foot long gardens pretty easily.
I've regraded 2 driveways and both times I got a bit of a laugh when I pulled my "ride on mower" out of the trailer. After 1-2hrs and a nice flat driveway they end up quite impressed.
I am running turf tires and I use chains on the rear with the box blade.
I think the 18 is plenty capable. Wet tall grass uphill in 4wd and I can loose a few rpm, slow down a bit and everything is good. Great little machine if your looking to upgrade from a ride on.
Check out a post I made showing some of the landscaping projects I did with this little machine: BX1860
I also till with this machine and use a flail mower. The flail struggles on overgrown 3ft grass that hasn't been touched for 20 years. Mowing once a year after the initial cut and it does better if I take my time. Thin brush is easier to cut then grass I find. I also have a tiller and have no issues with this at all. I do tilling on the side and plan to until I pay off the tractor with tilling income. I started in the fall before winter hit and was doing $400 a month in profit. Tilled some 150 foot long gardens pretty easily.
I've regraded 2 driveways and both times I got a bit of a laugh when I pulled my "ride on mower" out of the trailer. After 1-2hrs and a nice flat driveway they end up quite impressed.
I am running turf tires and I use chains on the rear with the box blade.
bx tractorjoe
Active member
Equipment
kubota l2501 upgraded from a bx23s john deere 670 husquarvana huv 4421 gxp
My old b7100 with 16 hp when new, with 2400 hours, and smoking handled a 60 inch belly mower, or mmm just fine, as long as the grass is not a foot high and wet the 1880 with a 54 inch deck should be fine..
My bx23s with a 60 inch mmm was awesome but the loader lifting capacity was the main reason I traded for a l2501. And 3 point finish mower which cuts great but takes some getting use to
I would not get a 3 point mower.. they suck for going around trees, mowing by a fence or turning around as they track weird and you usually miss a few inches and have to mow it twice.. 3 point mowers are great for big open fields..
My bx23s with a 60 inch mmm was awesome but the loader lifting capacity was the main reason I traded for a l2501. And 3 point finish mower which cuts great but takes some getting use to
I would not get a 3 point mower.. they suck for going around trees, mowing by a fence or turning around as they track weird and you usually miss a few inches and have to mow it twice.. 3 point mowers are great for big open fields..
I totally agree. Got rid of my RFM after the first year for those reasons.
BUT a RFM can do a great job if you are not cutting around things or close to a fence line...I was totally satisfied with the RFM cut quality, just not satisfied overall for the reasons bx tractorjoe stated...
Edit: That gave me an excuse to buy a BX with MMM as a second tractor...