Having bought many new Kubota's over the years, (The most recent a GR 2120) it seems that with each new unit I find more little problems, IE:
1. Belt idler arm tweaked. As the bushing in the arm wore a bit, it allowed the pulley and belt to start to start hitting the deck which resulted in the belt going south at 175 hrs.
Not sure if kubota sells the bushings separately? but I'm guessing they don't :shruggy: So I installed a Clevite bushing that was a perfect fit (clevite # 02705)in the arm. NOTE: The bushing will have to be cut in 1/2 or drilled for lubricant to enter. Also: IF you cut the bushing make sure to install it correctly. After the install, the belt was still riding to lower edge of the pulley. After tweaking the arm a touch, it's now running centered and I have ~.200" clearance between the deck & pulley with even more between the belt and deck .
2. Grease zerks for the front axle pivot being painted over to the point they wouldn't take grease. Remove paint with wire wheel and grease axle pivot.
3. The rear axle breather line became detached and puked a decent amount of fluid out. While there I noted a hose around the back of transaxle which was rubbing on the housing and lever. Reroute hose for clearance and securely mount breather hose
4. The unit always had a problem backing up, especially on a hill. Even on flat ground it was SLOWWWW! Due to other priorities, we lived with it. The unit also seemed to be a bit slow going forward but again, not having any time to look into it we lived with it.
5. It then developed a problem when releasing the pedal, and would continue creeping whichever direction you had been going, and not going to Neutral.
Having read of others experiencing the above two items I dove into resolving both of them during the 400 hour service. What I found the root cause of both was a loose set screw on the arm that activates the hydro.
For clarification, it is the last arm of the linkage and is connected directly to the shaft going into the hydro
The manual I have shows a removable panel to access the linkage. My unit (a 2017) doesn't have this removable panel . And of course, the location is almost inaccessible. With the pedal clamped in the fully depressed position, it gives you better visual access looking down from the top. I was able to get a 1/4 drive ratchet, 6" extension and a short 4mm ball driver to engage the set screw. I backed the screw out as far as I dared (about 4-5 turns), Brake cleaned the area and applied red loctite to the stick end of a 6" long wooden Q tip which was the used to apply the loctite to the SS. I then tightened it as much as I dared.
I proceeded to verify and adjust the neutral position as well as the forward and reverse per the manual. The drawing for the forward speed, rear adjustment measuring point is a bit questionable (even with a magnifying glass) due to the rod being tapered at the end. I used the end of the rod at its full diameter.
The tractor now fly's in forward and has no trouble backing up, even on a steep grade
I hope this info will be helpful to other owners.
I haven't had the number of issues with the 3200 but do wish I had kept the 3030 as there were things about it that were more user-friendly IMO, Same goes for the 3150. It seems as though with every new unit they are changing things that don't need to be and ignoring those that do.
1. Belt idler arm tweaked. As the bushing in the arm wore a bit, it allowed the pulley and belt to start to start hitting the deck which resulted in the belt going south at 175 hrs.
Not sure if kubota sells the bushings separately? but I'm guessing they don't :shruggy: So I installed a Clevite bushing that was a perfect fit (clevite # 02705)in the arm. NOTE: The bushing will have to be cut in 1/2 or drilled for lubricant to enter. Also: IF you cut the bushing make sure to install it correctly. After the install, the belt was still riding to lower edge of the pulley. After tweaking the arm a touch, it's now running centered and I have ~.200" clearance between the deck & pulley with even more between the belt and deck .
2. Grease zerks for the front axle pivot being painted over to the point they wouldn't take grease. Remove paint with wire wheel and grease axle pivot.
3. The rear axle breather line became detached and puked a decent amount of fluid out. While there I noted a hose around the back of transaxle which was rubbing on the housing and lever. Reroute hose for clearance and securely mount breather hose
4. The unit always had a problem backing up, especially on a hill. Even on flat ground it was SLOWWWW! Due to other priorities, we lived with it. The unit also seemed to be a bit slow going forward but again, not having any time to look into it we lived with it.
5. It then developed a problem when releasing the pedal, and would continue creeping whichever direction you had been going, and not going to Neutral.
Having read of others experiencing the above two items I dove into resolving both of them during the 400 hour service. What I found the root cause of both was a loose set screw on the arm that activates the hydro.
For clarification, it is the last arm of the linkage and is connected directly to the shaft going into the hydro
The manual I have shows a removable panel to access the linkage. My unit (a 2017) doesn't have this removable panel . And of course, the location is almost inaccessible. With the pedal clamped in the fully depressed position, it gives you better visual access looking down from the top. I was able to get a 1/4 drive ratchet, 6" extension and a short 4mm ball driver to engage the set screw. I backed the screw out as far as I dared (about 4-5 turns), Brake cleaned the area and applied red loctite to the stick end of a 6" long wooden Q tip which was the used to apply the loctite to the SS. I then tightened it as much as I dared.
I proceeded to verify and adjust the neutral position as well as the forward and reverse per the manual. The drawing for the forward speed, rear adjustment measuring point is a bit questionable (even with a magnifying glass) due to the rod being tapered at the end. I used the end of the rod at its full diameter.
The tractor now fly's in forward and has no trouble backing up, even on a steep grade
I hope this info will be helpful to other owners.
I haven't had the number of issues with the 3200 but do wish I had kept the 3030 as there were things about it that were more user-friendly IMO, Same goes for the 3150. It seems as though with every new unit they are changing things that don't need to be and ignoring those that do.