Is diesel pickup truck synthetic oil proper for our tractors?

[RCW]

Donuts what is the best kind?

I make maple syrup, but BAP hasn’t a clue....EVERYONE knows chocolate cake with icing.....geez...[emoji12]

Makes my tractor run better!!

What about beer?!?![emoji481]

Yuengling from Pottsville, PA has been the best since 1829....too bad for you guys west of the great Mississippi River...also the best river......behind the mighty Susquehanna in my neck of the woods......[emoji12]

Chevy trucks.....can’t say more than that, can you?!?! Everyone agrees to that....just a given...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JerryMT]

I find some of these types of discussions amusing.

Engine manufacturers and oil companies spend big bucks and have all the knowledge, the sophisticated test equipment, and analysis methods to develop and test lubricants. However, in reading these type of discussions, the general public can deduce differences in brand engine lube oil performance by just driving around after an oil change. Amazing!

Guys what your using with all these claims is what is referred to as "anecdotal data". Three hundred years ago it was called "science" but to day we call it "anecdotal data". Today we actually measure lube oil performance, we don't use our very own individual senses.

As long as the oil meets the API classification and the engine manufacturers recommendations and you either use the manufacturers change intervals or use oil testing to decide on oil change intervals, you are good to go. All the rest is brand marketing hype. As NIWF said everybody has their own preferences and that's OK. it's your $'s so spend it as you like.

Just my $0.02

 

[85Hokie]

85Hokie-

What were the audible and performance differences with the hydraulic oil?

The "whine" in the HST almost went away entirely.....
the quickness in dead of cold for hydraulics was noticeable. In other tractors I have used - the hydraulics were when cold, like a frozen stick! Nope - no water in the oil just very slow....until the fluid got a little less viscous - then it behaved mo' better. With the S-udt2 - dead cold is the same as warm weather.

 

[Pau7220]

Donuts... What are the best kind?
Debate begin!

Krispy-Kreme coffee rolls with a pat of President butter, 2 minutes in a toaster oven, and a side of real burgundy cherry ice cream!! (The kind that comes from a local farm creamery sold in a full 1/2 gal.)
Hungry yet?

Oh yea, T6... best bang for the buck, period.

P. S.
Almost forgot... 10mg of Lipitor and a Zantac

 

[Newlyme]

Donuts... What are the best kind?
Debate begin!

WHAT ARE YOU DOING???
This is a Diesel Truck/Tractor oil debate.

Maggie's Donuts made by the local Amish ladies. Chocolate covered with crushed nuts. Get'em while their still warm.

 

[85Hokie]

Fresh Homemade doughnuts dunked in warm Maple Syrup.

That's sounds awesome.....where is smell-a-vision and taste-a-vision when you need it!!!!

 

[BAP]

That's sounds awesome.....where is smell-a-vision and taste-a-vision when you need it!!!!

Sorry, wished that was available. And yes they are good, I make both of them.

 

[D2Cat]

RCW, head above water for sure. Had about 5" of rain since mid July!

Going to change the filter on my welder. Is one better than another?

 

[Luckystars]

All this oil talk is great. I am glad everyone is doing proper oil changes and not neglecting their engines and equipment.

After reading 5 pages of thoughts and opinions i have some questions.

Am I the only one who likes Dunkin Donuts Bavarian cream?
The Amish ladies donuts ya gotta get still warm. The ladies or the donuts?
Rotella oil does smell when you change it. I LOVE that smell. It's like walking into the house and the wifes wearing perfume and a smile for no reason.
Has anyone ever switched an older engine with no issues at all to a full synthetic and have it start using oil? Or leaking? I have. It was like the synthetic flowed so well it got past rings and seals. I changed it for T6 back to T4 and it's still fine. I was hoping for more protection is an air cooled engine.
The biggest issue I have with diesel vs gas oil or truck vs car oil is if you have a turbo on your engine the oil will see 1300 degrees from time to time. Is your oil prepared for that?
If you step up and pay the big bucks for the top shelf oil are you paying $35 once a year to see what it's doing and what your engine is doing? Do you get blood work at least once a year, or does your wife make you go get blood work once a year? Do you go straight to the donut shop after the blood test? Hell, I'm hungry after fasting all night.
I send every oil change sample to Blackstone labs. It's like $37 bucks. With a constant record of oil change history and proof it never went to for between oil changes I think I'll get all my money back when or if I ever sell my truck. As for my M5950 that I just rebuilt the engine, it only has 25 hours on the overhaul so far but stand by. I'll post up what an inframe overhaul first oil sample looks like soon.

 

[Pau7220]

Has anyone ever switched an older engine with no issues at all to a full synthetic and have it start using oil? Or leaking?

No, but I've never used it where it wasn't supposed to be used .... like in a 2 cycle Detroit or a Model T or Model A which require mono grade.

Do you go straight to the donut shop after the blood test?

Absolutely!!

 

[Bulldog]

Fuel consumption goes up as well as operating temperature because of an oil?

This doesn't make sense and is likely a placebo effect.

Lets try again.

It doesn't burn more fuel with T6 compared to Kubota oil. It will be about the same. Point being if you buy T6 you should expect a premium product with added benefits but you don't get them.

Again, T6 doesn't make your engine run hotter. It will be about the same as it is with Kubota oil.

However if you try Amsoil you will see better fuel economy and cooler run temps. The temp difference will show up when you're in the field and the radiator is slightly covered. It will help it stay cooler longer.

Please, try it for yourself. I'm not trying to argue about it, just passing along what it's done for me.

 

[dlundblad]

Lets try again.

It doesn't burn more fuel with T6 compared to Kubota oil. It will be about the same. Point being if you buy T6 you should expect a premium product with added benefits but you don't get them.

Again, T6 doesn't make your engine run hotter. It will be about the same as it is with Kubota oil.

However if you try Amsoil you will see better fuel economy and cooler run temps. The temp difference will show up when you're in the field and the radiator is slightly covered. It will help it stay cooler longer.

Please, try it for yourself. I'm not trying to argue about it, just passing along what it's done for me.

I can appreciate the use of a quality oil, but your observations don't make sense so yes, let's try this again.

A liquid cooled engine will not run cooler simply because of an oil. You say your tractor stayed cooler longer as the radiator collected grass? I'm guessing it wasn't as dusty that day and the screen just needed cleaned less often. Either way, get off the tractor and clean the screen out to fix the hot running problem.

Fuel economy from an oil, especially that of the same weight, once again doesn't make sense. Fuel quality, ambient temperature and driving style play a huge role in this.

At the end of the day, I am betting your Kubota will last just as long with Kubota 15w40 and Rotella T6 as it would with Amsoil. Change it on time and keep the air filter clean and/ or replaced accordingly. The only difference you'll see with Amsoil use is a lighter wallet.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

A liquid cooled engine will not run cooler simply because of an oil.

Actually yes it will, less friction mean less heat.

 

[85Hokie]

Actually yes it will, less friction mean less heat.

To double up on what NIW said.....

OIL cools an engine quite a bit - think about your lawn mower - air cooled true, but a lot of cooling is done by the oil itself!!!!

A less viscous oil, and an oil that does not break down over time will allow the parts to slip/slide their way without building up heat as much as another "type" of oil.

On hst machines - the oil IS the only coolant that the internal pump has - and running a "better" made oil .....will reduce the heat, sometimes tremendously.

Now to rebut this:

Fuel economy from an oil, especially that of the same weight, once again doesn't make sense. Fuel quality, ambient temperature and driving style play a huge role in this.

At the end of the day, I am betting your Kubota will last just as long with Kubota 15w40 and Rotella T6 as it would with Amsoil. Change it on time and keep the air filter clean and/ or replaced accordingly. The only difference you'll see with Amsoil use is a lighter wallet.

Ever notice that ALL European and German car companies are using 0w-20, 0w-40 oil ????????? SIMPLE.......pure and simple! IT GETS BETTER GAS MILEAGE - so yes.......a "thinner - better oil" will get better gas mieage (if that is what you are wishing) than the standard 10w-30 stuff!

As for wear .......IF you change your oil, any type - on a "regular" interval - you may never see or feel any changes in the condition of the internal parts..... however ......TAKE a tractor, car engine, truck engine - any internal combustion engine you wish........place "k" oil in it or any oil you wish, and run it 200,000 miles (change the oil as you wish) at the end of those miles......
the one that had AMSOIL in it.....will have less wear!!!! PERIOD.

and as for cost - it really is not "THAT" much more, as I said before - you can get a gallon of T6 ...and yes I use it !!! OR a gallon of Amsoil oil for about 5-10$ more......whether it is worth it, is determine on how soon you MUST change your oil!

Sometimes in life - rather than argue about doing something that you think is not worth it ......is to try it and say ...........mmmmmmmmm.........

remember that old commercial - "try it, you'll like it!"

 

[Holleyman]

To double up on what NIW said.....

OIL cools an engine quite a bit - think about your lawn mower - air cooled true, but a lot of cooling is done by the oil itself!!!!

This is very true, approximately 50% of engine cooling is performed by the engine oil.

A less viscous oil, and an oil that does not break down over time will allow the parts to slip/slide their way without building up heat as much as another "type" of oil.

On hst machines - the oil IS the only coolant that the internal pump has - and running a "better" made oil .....will reduce the heat, sometimes tremendously.

Now to rebut this:

Fuel economy from an oil, especially that of the same weight, once again doesn't make sense. Fuel quality, ambient temperature and driving style play a huge role in this.

At the end of the day, I am betting your Kubota will last just as long with Kubota 15w40 and Rotella T6 as it would with Amsoil. Change it on time and keep the air filter clean and/ or replaced accordingly. The only difference you'll see with Amsoil use is a lighter wallet.

Ever notice that ALL European and German car companies are using 0w-20, 0w-40 oil ????????? SIMPLE.......pure and simple! IT GETS BETTER GAS MILEAGE - so yes.......a "thinner - better oil" will get better gas mieage (if that is what you are wishing) than the standard 10w-30 stuff!

The thinner oil reducing rotational drag is true but this has little to nothing to do with the 0W, 5W or 10W rating of the oil once the engine comes up to temperature. It is completely related to the 100ºC rating of the viscosity. The quest for small savings of fuel continues as the industry is heading toward 0W-16 oils to further reduce drag. This also reduces protection against high load wear but the engineers figure a little bit of wear over the life of the engine is worth the fuel savings over the life of the engine.

As for wear .......IF you change your oil, any type - on a "regular" interval - you may never see or feel any changes in the condition of the internal parts..... however ......TAKE a tractor, car engine, truck engine - any internal combustion engine you wish........place "k" oil in it or any oil you wish, and run it 200,000 miles (change the oil as you wish) at the end of those miles......
the one that had AMSOIL in it.....will have less wear!!!! PERIOD.

and as for cost - it really is not "THAT" much more, as I said before - you can get a gallon of T6 ...and yes I use it !!! OR a gallon of Amsoil oil for about 5-10$ more......whether it is worth it, is determine on how soon you MUST change your oil!

Sometimes in life - rather than argue about doing something that you think is not worth it ......is to try it and say ...........mmmmmmmmm.........

remember that old commercial - "try it, you'll like it!"

Lubricity is an inherent quality of all engine oils, they will all generally lubricate similarly with a similar viscosity. The big money you pay for in high quality synthetics is for a better base oil, dino oil with minimal processing group 3, highly processed dino stock (cracking, de-waxing, highly refined) group 4 which is considered synthetic and group 5 which is a man made stock from esters. These attributes are the reason a group 3 looks like frozen honey and a group 5 flows without much problems at -30.
You also get enhanced detergent package, higher grade oil exceed the requirements of manufactures ability to hold dirt in suspension, better anti foaming, viscosity improvers, anti oxidant and acid neutralizers.

To make a short story long, oil of similar viscosity will have similar lubricity and drag characteristics. When you employ synthetics you get dramatically improved cold weather performance, enhanced acid and oxidation protection, improved viscosity breakdown resistance and better cleaners and well as some EP (extreme pressure) protection in some oils. These expensive oils allow for longer service life, that's what you pay for. Instead of 250 hour oil changes you can extend to 600 -800 depending on what oil analysis looks like.

 

[dlundblad]

To double up on what NIW said.....

OIL cools an engine quite a bit - think about your lawn mower - air cooled true, but a lot of cooling is done by the oil itself!!!!

A less viscous oil, and an oil that does not break down over time will allow the parts to slip/slide their way without building up heat as much as another "type" of oil.

On hst machines - the oil IS the only coolant that the internal pump has - and running a "better" made oil .....will reduce the heat, sometimes tremendously.

Now to rebut this:

Fuel economy from an oil, especially that of the same weight, once again doesn't make sense. Fuel quality, ambient temperature and driving style play a huge role in this.

At the end of the day, I am betting your Kubota will last just as long with Kubota 15w40 and Rotella T6 as it would with Amsoil. Change it on time and keep the air filter clean and/ or replaced accordingly. The only difference you'll see with Amsoil use is a lighter wallet.

Ever notice that ALL European and German car companies are using 0w-20, 0w-40 oil ????????? SIMPLE.......pure and simple! IT GETS BETTER GAS MILEAGE - so yes.......a "thinner - better oil" will get better gas mieage (if that is what you are wishing) than the standard 10w-30 stuff!

As for wear .......IF you change your oil, any type - on a "regular" interval - you may never see or feel any changes in the condition of the internal parts..... however ......TAKE a tractor, car engine, truck engine - any internal combustion engine you wish........place "k" oil in it or any oil you wish, and run it 200,000 miles (change the oil as you wish) at the end of those miles......
the one that had AMSOIL in it.....will have less wear!!!! PERIOD.

and as for cost - it really is not "THAT" much more, as I said before - you can get a gallon of T6 ...and yes I use it !!! OR a gallon of Amsoil oil for about 5-10$ more......whether it is worth it, is determine on how soon you MUST change your oil!

Sometimes in life - rather than argue about doing something that you think is not worth it ......is to try it and say ...........mmmmmmmmm.........

remember that old commercial - "try it, you'll like it!"

Yep, I***8217;ll just agree with you. Mmmmhm. Lol.

Not sure why there***8217;s random characters.

 

[Bulldog]

Funny thing about all this to me is the ones that yell the most about how a certain product can't, doesn't or wouldn't work are the ones that have never tried it.

Hey, I didn't believe it either until I tried it for myself. Simply put, Amsoil does what it says it will do and more.

It sure would be nice if people would just think about what is being shared, process it and either apply the knowledge or dismiss it instead of argue over a product they've never used. Myself, I'm always interested in learning something new. Especially if it will benefit me or my equipment.

 

[selectcut]

Bulldog I back you 100% on Amsoil I often fight the same fight you are here about Amsoil. But now I put Amsoil in every thing I own from my BX to my truck. Since switching over to Amsoil all my vehicles have lasted 250k miles plus and still ran when I sold them and all original motors and transmission. Not telling anyone what to use but once I used side by side. Amsoil out performed the rest.

 

[Holleyman]

I didn't say anything bad about Amsoil. I love the stuff.
Anything that takes gear oil gets Amsoil Extreme Gear because it works extremely well and lasts forever. I only have to check / top up level every service and sample. The stuff never wears out.
I've just never seen a temperature reduction on a water cooled engine with a set thermostat temperature nor have I ever tested any statistical difference in fuel savings among different oil brands at the same viscosity.
On my own equipment I regularly run Mobil 1, Amsoil and Duron synthetic. I know Amsoil is good oil.

 

[Bulldog]

Bulldog I back you 100% on Amsoil I often fight the same fight you are here about Amsoil. But now I put Amsoil in every thing I own from my BX to my truck. Since switching over to Amsoil all my vehicles have lasted 250k miles plus and still ran when I sold them and all original motors and transmission. Not telling anyone what to use but once I used side by side. Amsoil out performed the rest.

Thanks my friend.

I didn't say anything bad about Amsoil. I love the stuff.
Anything that takes gear oil gets Amsoil Extreme Gear because it works extremely well and lasts forever. I only have to check / top up level every service and sample. The stuff never wears out.
I've just never seen a temperature reduction on a water cooled engine with a set thermostat temperature nor have I ever tested any statistical difference in fuel savings among different oil brands at the same viscosity.
On my own equipment I regularly run Mobil 1, Amsoil and Duron synthetic. I know Amsoil is good oil.

Holleyman, Mobil 1 was the first brand I put against Amsoil because that's what I used in my F150. I was really surprised when I gained 2 mpg because I felt like Mobil 1 was the best out there.

I'll give you and example of what I was talking about on my temp.

I was baling with my M9000 and had been going for 5 or 6 hrs. Noticed my temp hand was up close to the 1/2 mark where it normally would be at about 1/4. No where near over heating but hotter than normal. I needed to stretch my legs anyway so I stopped. The outside of the hood was completely covered and the grills on the inside were caked about 1/2" thick. I guarantee you with any other oil it would have been in the red long before that point.
My L3000 was the worst about getting hot before I changed to Amsoil. Just a light covering over the screen and it was at the red line. Now I can run all day and it never gets to hot. The oil is the only difference. It's not magic, it simply dissipates heat better than the brands.