Installing wheel spacers

[DustyRusty]

I am going to be installing 1 1/2" spacers on the rear wheels of my BX23S, and was wondering if I should purchase 3 additional studs like the 2 that Kubota installed on the rear axle, or should I use Grade 8 full threaded bolts, like I did when I put spacers on my old BX22. I was thinking that the 2 studs that are already installed might not be strong enough to hold the wheel even when there are 3 additional ones added and that the grade 8 bolts would be stronger. What are your thoughts? Cost isn't a factor, since they are about the same cost.

 

[OrangeKrush]

all ears on this since I have 2" and not in a big hurry to install and want to do it the right way.

 

[Henro]

I am going to be installing 1 1/2" spacers on the rear wheels of my BX23S, and was wondering if I should purchase 3 additional studs like the 2 that Kubota installed on the rear axle, or should I use Grade 8 full threaded bolts, like I did when I put spacers on my old BX22. I was thinking that the 2 studs that are already installed might not be strong enough to hold the wheel even when there are 3 additional ones added and that the grade 8 bolts would be stronger. What are your thoughts? Cost isn't a factor, since they are about the same cost.

The spacers I bought for my BX2200 and my son in law's BX23s just used the original nuts to mount the spacers on the original studs. The spacers had studs and nuts as part of the setup, and the wheels just mounted to the spacer studs, using the nuts provided.

So I am puzzled by your question...what came with the spacers I bought seems to be totally satisfactory after about a year of use. No complaints from my SIL with his BX23S or me either...

 

[OrangeKrush]

I think he is just wanting to make sure with the extra pressure on the originals.. that they will be worthy.

 

[Henro]

I think he is just wanting to make sure with the extra pressure on the originals.. that they will be worthy.

That could be true.

But the way I looked at it, using spacers designed for highway speeds on a much heavier vehicle, should add a bit of a safety factor when used on a BX tractor...

In no way claiming to know anything worth listening to though...just my way of looking at it...

 

[DustyRusty]

I am questioning the strength of the Kubota studs being used without any of the Kubota bolts. The clearance is very tight in the hole where both the nuts and the bolts go on the spacers. Possibly this picture will give you a better idea of the clearances for getting a socket onto the bolt vs. the nut.

 

[DustyRusty]

I spoke to a friend today that is a mechanical engineer, and he said that the grade 8 bolt, threaded into the backside of the axle would be superior holding power because of the bolt head than just a stud screwed into a threaded hole. He also pointed out that if the stud breaks, then you might have a difficult time getting it out of the threaded hole, where the bolt can be unscrewed from the backside of the axle, should it break. Also, there is no way to know the tensile strength of the threaded stud that Kubota supplies, For these reasons, I am going with the fully threaded grade 8 bolts from McMaster Carr. I will install them the same way that I did on my BX22, using loctite at the head end of the threads before I tighten them into the axle.

 

[OrangeKrush]

Ok just to be sure of what you are saying.. you're going with bolts into the back of the hub instead of bolts going through the spacer into the hub?? I think that's a better fit also.. plus the spacers are beveled for tapered lugnuts. I always wondered about that bolt head grinding into that tapered area without a washer unless that's how they have it.

 

[Blue280z]

Use blue loctite on the threads fastening the spacer to the hub.... may not be needed but a best practice.

 

[DustyRusty]

Use blue loctite on the threads fastening the spacer to the hub.... may not be needed but a best practice.

I love how Loctite can hold things together, but I wouldn't use it on the stud, since the only way to break the bond of the Loctite on the stud and nut, would be to put heat on the part. The spacers are made of aluminum, and if I were to use a small propane torch to heat the nut to take it off for a flat tire, I run the risk of damaging the spacer. I use good quality automotive lug nuts and torque them down to 85-foot pounds. That is what the alloy wheels on my Ford require, and they don't ever loosen up. I also check the wheel lug nuts a few days after I first install them. The bolts that I will be installed into the axle will have Loctite on the threads where they screw into the axle.

 

[Clint from Flint]

Grade 9 and Grade 10 bolts are available from Caterpillar but they are very costly.

 

[Oliver]

Use blue loctite on the threads fastening the spacer to the hub.... may not be needed but a best practice.

I love how Loctite can hold things together, but I wouldn't use it on the stud, since the only way to break the bond of the Loctite on the stud and nut, would be to put heat on the part......

You may be thinking of red locktite. I frequently use blue locktite and used it on my spacers, it doesn't require heat to loosen.

 

[DustyRusty]

Grade 9 and Grade 10 bolts are available from Caterpillar but they are very costly.

Designed for use in heavy machinery and equipment subject to harsh fatigue conditions, which my BX23S will never see!

 

[Henro]

I love how Loctite can hold things together, but I wouldn't use it on the stud, since the only way to break the bond of the Loctite on the stud and nut, would be to put heat on the part. The spacers are made of aluminum, and if I were to use a small propane torch to heat the nut to take it off for a flat tire, I run the risk of damaging the spacer. I use good quality automotive lug nuts and torque them down to 85-foot pounds. That is what the alloy wheels on my Ford require, and they don't ever loosen up. I also check the wheel lug nuts a few days after I first install them. The bolts that I will be installed into the axle will have Loctite on the threads where they screw into the axle.

Actually, blue locktite is not that strong and designed to be a "removable" thread locker (forget the correct term), as compared to the red which does require using heat to break the bond as you mentioned...

 

[Henro]

I am questioning the strength of the Kubota studs being used without any of the Kubota bolts. The clearance is very tight in the hole where both the nuts and the bolts go on the spacers. Possibly this picture will give you a better idea of the clearances for getting a socket onto the bolt vs. the nut. View attachment 66498

Both my son in law and I were able to install the spacers using all the Kubota original hardware that held the wheels on to begin with. His a BX23S and mine a BX2200D

Do the spacers you have require substituting in place of the originals Kubota hardware?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Actually, blue locktite is not that strong and designed to be a "removable" thread locker (forget the correct term), as compared to the red which does require using heat to break the bond as you mentioned...

The fastening power of red Loctitie is greatly over-hyped. I have had no problem removing fasteners up to 7/16 installed with red Loctite. I buzz them right off with an impact wrench.

Dan

I am going to be installing 1 1/2" spacers on the rear wheels of my BX23S, and was wondering if I should purchase 3 additional studs like the 2 that Kubota installed on the rear axle, or should I use Grade 8 full threaded bolts, like I did when I put spacers on my old BX22. I was thinking that the 2 studs that are already installed might not be strong enough to hold the wheel even when there are 3 additional ones added and that the grade 8 bolts would be stronger. What are your thoughts? Cost isn't a factor, since they are about the same cost.

On all my Kubota tractors the wheel hardware is metric and Class 8.8 (SAE grade 5). Regardless of studs or cap screws I don't think you need to worry about the fastener strength.

Dan